Brand new to Saltwater, Need advice on testing.

[Lynseyw]

So I am brand new to saltwater (did fresh for ~25years) and have just set up my Red Sea Max Nano tank. I bought a Hanna Salinity meter, but was wondering what test kits are the easiest and which ones are necessary at first. So far don't have anything in my tank, it's cycling till I get everything in order. Just has live sand, live rock, and a bacteria starter. I had an oops when setting up my ATO, so I'm waiting to get that sorted out (accidentally syphoned some saltwater into the ATO reservoir). Have a 5 stage ro/di coming Sat, so I should be able to sort out that mess and get it dialed in. Planning on adding corals later next week. Any recommendations of what kits? Brands? What's the easiest? What is necessary for a beginner at this point? Especially when not dosing obviously. Figure more tests will be needed down the road. I used premixed saltwater for the initial fill, but plan on mixing my own once my ro/di comes. I bought Red Sea salt so far. Was planning on doing maybe 10-15% water changes every week during the initial start up once I add fish (plan on just a nice pair of clownfish to start). The more I research, the more I get confused on what is actually needed at my beginner level.

I have an outdoor pond right now. It's about 10 years old. I don't think I have tested the water for about 9 years. Hahaha, it has been so dialed in for so long, I just don't worry about it. I know saltwater is a different beast.

Thank you in advance for any advice.

 

[TX_REEF]

So I am brand new to saltwater (did fresh for ~25years) and have just set up my Red Sea Max Nano tank. I bought a Hanna Salinity meter, but was wondering what test kits are the easiest and which ones are necessary at first. So far don't have anything in my tank, it's cycling till I get everything in order. Just has live sand, live rock, and a bacteria starter. I had an oops when setting up my ATO, so I'm waiting to get that sorted out (accidentally syphoned some saltwater into the ATO). Have a 5 stage ro/di coming Sat, so I should be able to sort out that mess and get it dialed in. Planning on adding corals later next week. Any recommendations of what kits? Brands? What's the easiest? What is necessary for a beginner at this point? Especially when not dosing obviously. Figure more tests will be needed down the road. I used premixed saltwater for the initial fill, but plan on mixing my own once my ro/di comes. I bought Red Sea salt so far. Was planning on doing maybe 10-15% water changes every week during the initial start up once I add fish. The more I research, the more I get confused on what is actually needed at my beginner level.

I have an outdoor pond right now. It's about 10 years old. I don't think I have tested the water for about 9 years. Hahaha, it has been so dialed in for so long, I just don't worry about it. I know saltwater is a different beast.

Thank you in advance for any advice.

welcome to the salty side!

Salifert and red sea are generally reliable test kits to get, you want to be testing for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, ph, alkalinity at minimum. nitrate and ammonia matter less once you are sure you're cycled. how long has the tank been set up? if you literally just set it up, I would not be planning on adding corals next week - patience and stability are key here. how did you manage to siphon salt water into ato?

 

[SPS2020]

Hello,

I'd review good information here.

 

[Lynseyw]

welcome to the salty side!

Salifert and red sea are generally reliable test kits to get, you want to be testing for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, ph, alkalinity at minimum. nitrate and ammonia matter less once you are sure you're cycled. how long has the tank been set up? if you literally just set it up, I would not be planning on adding corals next week - patience and stability are key here. how did you manage to siphon salt water into ato?

Ok, thanks. I'll wait a little longer before adding anything. I accidentally had the ATO a little too low in the tank and it created a vacuum. I kept hearing it running every few mins and then saw that it would fill up and then drain a little, so it drained back into the reservoir. Oh well, I learned and got it all working well now. I figure it's only a 5 gallon reservoir, so as it keeps filling, it should pretty much equal out in the end. Then when the reservoir is empty, I'll fill with my fresh ro/di water, and it will be like nothing ever happened

 

[TX_REEF]

Ok, thanks. I'll wait a little longer before adding anything. I accidentally had the ATO a little too low in the tank and it created a vacuum. I kept hearing it running every few mins and then saw that it would fill up and then drain a little, so it drained back into the reservoir. Oh well, I learned and got it all working well now. I figure it's only a 5 gallon reservoir, so as it keeps filling, it should pretty much equal out in the end. Then when the reservoir is empty, I'll fill with my fresh ro/di water, and it will be like nothing ever happened

your time to add corals should depend on when your cycle is complete and you have the proper equipment in place, n0ot a specific set amount of days, to be clear.

On your ATO back-siphoning, simply add a siphon break to the tubing above the water line inside the ATO reservoir, and above the water line wherever it is topping off into, this will prevent the issue. This is as easy as poking a small hole into the tube on a side of the tube that will allow water to drip back into the water and not spray everywhere or leak elsewhere. This will break the siphon for you.

 

[MnFish1]

So I am brand new to saltwater (did fresh for ~25years) and have just set up my Red Sea Max Nano tank. I bought a Hanna Salinity meter, but was wondering what test kits are the easiest and which ones are necessary at first. So far don't have anything in my tank, it's cycling till I get everything in order. Just has live sand, live rock, and a bacteria starter. I had an oops when setting up my ATO, so I'm waiting to get that sorted out (accidentally syphoned some saltwater into the ATO reservoir). Have a 5 stage ro/di coming Sat, so I should be able to sort out that mess and get it dialed in. Planning on adding corals later next week. Any recommendations of what kits? Brands? What's the easiest? What is necessary for a beginner at this point? Especially when not dosing obviously. Figure more tests will be needed down the road. I used premixed saltwater for the initial fill, but plan on mixing my own once my ro/di comes. I bought Red Sea salt so far. Was planning on doing maybe 10-15% water changes every week during the initial start up once I add fish (plan on just a nice pair of clownfish to start). The more I research, the more I get confused on what is actually needed at my beginner level.

I have an outdoor pond right now. It's about 10 years old. I don't think I have tested the water for about 9 years. Hahaha, it has been so dialed in for so long, I just don't worry about it. I know saltwater is a different beast.

Thank you in advance for any advice.

I didn't read the other thoughts - since I didn't want to change my opinion.

If cycling, you need an ammonia test and a nitrate test - and depending on your protocol, a nitrite test (though Nitrite is non-toxic in saltwater except extremely high levels. You already have the salinity monitor

After cycling, The basic 4 are calcium, Phosphate, nitrate and alkalinity.

Personally I favor API tests, since they are less expensive and though may not give results to 2 decimal points, they give trends, and average numbers - I find them the easiest to read of all the test kits. Many people do not trust them, however, if done and results read correctly many sites/videos suggest they are just as good as others. For a beginner I would recommend those - remembering you need to follow the instructions exactly. If it says shake for 30 seconds, shake for 30 seconds, etc. If you are doing water changes - make sure you read exactly the directions - as each salt has different instructions. Also mix the salt (in the bucket or bag etc) before you use it to make salt since different things can settle differently in the box/bag/bucket.


I tend to test less than most perhaps alkalinity once or twice a week, the rest once a month. I would recommend more than this until you get an idea of where things are going. Again - Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate - when cycling - follow whatever protocol is recommended.

Hope this helps - good luck with your new tank

 

[BeanAnimal]

welcome to the salty side!

Salifert and red sea are generally reliable test kits to get, you want to be testing for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, ph, alkalinity at minimum. nitrate and ammonia matter less once you are sure you're cycled. how long has the tank been set up? if you literally just set it up, I would not be planning on adding corals next week - patience and stability are key here. how did you manage to siphon salt water into ato?

Really only need to test for Alk/Calcium for dosing purposes if it is a reef and even then, with a nano and decent sized water changes, one could get away without.

I don't see a need for pH testing except in rare cases
ammonia is rather useless and not really needed
Nitrite - same, not needed. You can use them during "cyling" or not, and just give the new tank some time before adding anything substantial. The kits are cheap enough, but only really needed on the first few days and then in a rare emergency instances possibly.

Once up and running, depending on bioload Nitrate and Phosphate tests can be helpful.

 

[SliceGolfer]

You're going to get a bunch of differing opinions

For me, I monitor and test specific gravity, temp, alkalinity, and phosphate. I tested ammonia only when establishing my tanks through their initial cycle. As I dose Kalkwasser to maintain alkalinity, I do not test for calcium and I rarely (if ever anymore) test for magnesium.

I prefer Hanna digital colorimeters and a refractometer. Salifert makes great test kits and would be my second choice. My personal experience with the Hanna Salinity + temp pen was unreliable.

 

[MnFish1]

I didn't read the other thoughts - since I didn't want to change my opinion.

If cycling, you need an ammonia test and a nitrate test - and depending on your protocol, a nitrite test (though Nitrite is non-toxic in saltwater except extremely high levels. You already have the salinity monitor

After cycling, The basic 4 are calcium, Phosphate, nitrate and alkalinity.

Personally I favor API tests, since they are less expensive and though may not give results to 2 decimal points, they give trends, and average numbers - I find them the easiest to read of all the test kits. Many people do not trust them, however, if done and results read correctly many sites/videos suggest they are just as good as others. For a beginner I would recommend those - remembering you need to follow the instructions exactly. If it says shake for 30 seconds, shake for 30 seconds, etc. If you are doing water changes - make sure you read exactly the directions - as each salt has different instructions. Also mix the salt (in the bucket or bag etc) before you use it to make salt since different things can settle differently in the box/bag/bucket.


I tend to test less than most perhaps alkalinity once or twice a week, the rest once a month. I would recommend more than this until you get an idea of where things are going. Again - Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate - when cycling - follow whatever protocol is recommended.

Hope this helps - good luck with your new tank

Really only need to test for Alk/Calcium for dosing purposes if it is a reef and even then, with a nano and decent sized water changes, one could get away without.

I don't see a need for pH testing except in rare cases
ammonia is rather useless and not really needed
Nitrite - same, not needed. You can use them during "cyling" or not, and just give the new tank some time before adding anything substantial. The kits are cheap enough, but only really needed on the first few days and then in a rare emergency instances possibly.

Once up and running, depending on bioload Nitrate and Phosphate tests can be helpful.

Yes - pH I would measure as well periodically - if you're keeping corals, etc - or you decide to get an anemone. But as @BeanAnimal even this is overkill for 2 clownfish

 

[MnFish1]

Hello,

I'd review good information here.

VERY GOOD - I did not know that was there

 

[Lynseyw]

Really only need to test for Alk/Calcium for dosing purposes if it is a reef and even then, with a nano and decent sized water changes, one could get away without.

I don't see a need for pH testing except in rare cases
ammonia is rather useless and not really needed
Nitrite - same, not needed. You can use them during "cyling" or not, and just give the new tank some time before adding anything substantial. The kits are cheap enough, but only really needed on the first few days and then in a rare emergency instances possibly.

Once up and running, depending on bioload Nitrate and Phosphate tests can be helpful.

Yeah, That is pretty much what I was thinking. I know ammonia, nitrate, nitrite are all part of the cycling process (same as fresh), I remember checking everyday when I was cycling my first tank like 25 years ago. After that, I pretty much didn't use it. I plan on going very slow and not having a large bio load. Thank you!!!

 

[MnFish1]

PS - realize there is equipment out there that you can buy that tests alkalinity every few hours - with calcium and Mg - I do not think this is needed

 

[Lynseyw]

your time to add corals should depend on when your cycle is complete and you have the proper equipment in place, n0ot a specific set amount of days, to be clear.

On your ATO back-siphoning, simply add a siphon break to the tubing above the water line inside the ATO reservoir, and above the water line wherever it is topping off into, this will prevent the issue. This is as easy as poking a small hole into the tube on a side of the tube that will allow water to drip back into the water and not spray everywhere or leak elsewhere. This will break the siphon for you.

I got it all worked out now. That was the problem, I had it too low. I got the Red Sea ATO so everything would be in the same app. Now it is above the water line. I actually can't believe I made that mistake, I should have known better. I built my above ground pond and plumbed it myself. I am sorta shocked I made that mistake. Long day of setting up the tank and putting the stand together and a couple bourbons = brain fart. I needed the bourbon to get up the balls to put the tank on the stand all by myself. It's heavy!

 

[MnFish1]

I got it all worked out now. That was the problem, I had it too low. I got the Red Sea ATO so everything would be in the same app. Now it is above the water line. I actually can't believe I made that mistake, I should have known better. I built my above ground pond and plumbed it myself. I am sorta shocked I made that mistake. Long day of setting up the tank and putting the stand together and a couple bourbons = brain fart. I needed the bourbon to get up the balls to put the tank on the stand all by myself. It's heavy!

I would add the clowns - depending on how you're cycling - and go from there after a while. You have to get through the potential disease issues, etc - if you're not planning to quarantine. I would be very comfortable adding coral 2 weeks after starting a tank - I do not think the average person should do this.

 

[Lynseyw]

PS - realize there is equipment out there that you can buy that tests alkalinity every few hours - with calcium and Mg - I do not think this is needed

Yeah, I was seeing that. That might be easier, do you have any suggestions? I figure I will want to dose eventually, but figure it will be a lot later down the line, and I won't be as much of a noob by then.

 

[BeanAnimal]

As you can see, there is no right or wrong answer. There have been times that I did not test (at all) for YEARS. I think most of us will agree that the often too much testing and tweaking is worse than not testing at all.

Keep things simple to start, don't get mired in the muck and fall prey to Must dose carbon, must dose phosphate and nitrate, hand wringing about pH swings, etc. Just start slow and build on your knowledge as needed, not because some content creator said "this is the way".

 

[Lynseyw]

I would add the clowns - depending on how you're cycling - and go from there after a while. You have to get through the potential disease issues, etc - if you're not planning to quarantine. I would be very comfortable adding coral 2 weeks after starting a tank - I do not think the average person should do this.

Yeah, I was thinking the same. I did watch a series of videos from Reef Builders and they set up the same tank. They suggest starting with corals, and then adding fish. It sorta makes sense as they were saying you are getting some micro organisms on the frag plugs etc. I was planning on dipping the corals first to try to minimize any hitchhikers. As far as the clownfish, I really wanted some of the Picasso Storm Mocha clownfish. I was thinking of getting them Qt'ed from Dr Reef. And maybe even doing some corals from there as well that are already quarantined.

 

[Katrina71]

Don't chase numbers and keep it simple.

 

[MnFish1]

Yeah, I was seeing that. That might be easier, do you have any suggestions? I figure I will want to dose eventually, but figure it will be a lot later down the line, and I won't be as much of a noob by then.

Don't buy

 

[MnFish1]

Yeah, I was thinking the same. I did watch a series of videos from Reef Builders and they set up the same tank. They suggest starting with corals, and then adding fish. It sorta makes sense as they were saying you are getting some micro organisms on the frag plugs etc. I was planning on dipping the corals first to try to minimize any hitchhikers. As far as the clownfish, I really wanted some of the Picasso Storm Mocha clownfish. I was thinking of getting them Qt'ed from Dr Reef. And maybe even doing some corals from there as well that are already quarantined.

It's interesting - They are probably right - however - I didn't know your area of expertise. Many tanks would probably do better with coral introductions first