BRS RO/DI Unit - What do I put in this Cannister?

edd59

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I am literally going off the advice of the LAST POST I MADE HERE, and BRS. All of you literally told me make it a 5 stage with my old cannister.. Also you just said run the 4th stage and forget the 4th. That doesnt make any sense.
your making it difficult, just run it the way it is without the extra stage unless you have a specific problem with your water.
 

Cichlid Dad

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Thank you for clarifying. I was copying this model to create the new 5 stage one with my old cannister. What greatly confused me is the 1 Micron on the one you are showing me, and fact mine says 5 micron. The 2nd and 3rd cannister on the link you showed me is a Universal Carbon Block. The one on mine is a VOC chlroine carbon block.

Should I get just another 5 micron Universal Carbon block?
No just run as I showed you
 

Cichlid Dad

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You are over thinking it.
Mine is a 4 stage and I added a 2nd membrane thats all. Now its a 5 stage.
Again you dont need 4 canisters unless your incomming tds is very high.

your making it difficult, just run it the way it is without the extra stage unless you have a specific problem with your water.
This is the reason so many people get confused and upset. I had this handled then you two step in. You are the ones making this different.
 
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SauceyReef

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First off the jargon is making this literally painful for my dyslexic brain. I have been using the word cannisters and stages interchangeably. Like saying your unit is 4 stages with 5 cannisters makes no sense to me. BRS tricked me into buying a unit with no TDS meter. Stop telling me I am "overthinking this" when I am 100% not, and just trying to understand all the jargon, all different media/units, and ensure I am setting up mine correctly.

My old cannister has the TDS meter attached to it. Just setting this up has been painful and a crazy long experience. I don't want to try buying a new TDS meter and attaching it with the electronics, or having to buy another unit, or cannister with a TDS meter. I NEED that TDS meter from my old stage/cannister attached to this new one!!
 

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First off the jargon is making this literally painful for my dyslexic brain. I have been using the word cannisters and stages interchangeably. Like saying your unit is 4 stages with 5 cannisters makes no sense to me. BRS tricked me into buying a unit with no TDS meter. Stop telling me I am "overthinking this" when I am 100% not, and just trying to understand all the jargon, all different media/units, and ensure I am setting up mine correctly.

My old cannister has the TDS meter attached to it. Just setting this up has been painful and a crazy long experience. I don't want to try buying a new TDS meter and attaching it with the electronics, or having to buy another unit, or cannister with a TDS meter. I NEED that TDS meter!
Just trying to help. Have a nice day pal, im done.
 
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SauceyReef

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I think at this point I am just a bit confused which cannister on the 4 stage unit I should be removing the contents/media and replacing that with the 5th cannister from my old unit. I assumed it woudlve been the bottom cannister on the right with the color changing DI resin, but it may be whatever is in the white 4th cannister on the top. The site is making it very confusing what exactly is in this stage. On their site it says the 4th stage is "Nuclear Grade Color-Changing Deionization Resin", but that should be what is in the 3rd cannister according to the actual writing on the unit (it says "color changing DI resin" on the unit above cannister 3).

To clarify: on the website stage 3 says "75 GPD Dow Filmtec Membrane", but on the unit it says "Color changing DI resin"...


The fact they make it this confusing what is actually in that white cannister is crazy.. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/4-stage-75gpd-plus-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply.html
 
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InvaderJim

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I would take the new DI resin canister and swap it where the old resin canister is below the TDS meter, move that old canister to where the DI currently is and put another carbon block in it. Then you would hook it all together like the diagram in your earlier post. Sediment > Carbon > Carbon > RO Membrane > DI resin. This is how I currently have mine setup.
 

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I think at this point I am just a bit confused which cannister on the 4 stage unit I should be removing the contents/media and replacing that with the 5th cannister from my old unit. I assumed it woudlve been the bottom cannister on the right with the color changing DI resin, but it may be whatever is in the white 4th cannister on the top. The site is making it very confusing what exactly is in this stage. On their site it says the 4th stage is "Nuclear Grade Color-Changing Deionization Resin", but that should be what is in the 3rd cannister according to the actual writing on the unit (it says "color changing DI resin" on the unit above cannister 3).

To clarify: on the website stage 3 says "75 GPD Dow Filmtec Membrane", but on the unit it says "Color changing DI resin"...


The fact they make it this confusing what is actually in that white cannister is crazy.. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/4-stage-75gpd-plus-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply.html
The white unit on top is your RO Membrane, the far right canister is your DI Resin canister.
 
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SauceyReef

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The white unit on top is your RO Membrane, the far right canister is your DI Resin canister.
Thank you so much. Easily answered my questions! Absolute insanity they dont just have writing on the top white cannister that says "RO Membrane"... Or a simple diagram that shows which cannisters are what stages.
 

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IMG_20240128_080322517.jpg
IMG_20240128_080354740.jpg
IMG_20240128_080417307.jpg

Here is good pics of proper way. The last two show a tool you can purchase from BRS to cut ro lines . You can add your old TDS meter by cutting the line and putting it in between as shown. IMG_20240128_080335213.jpg
 
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SauceyReef

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I would take the new DI resin canister and swap it where the old resin canister is below the TDS meter, move that old canister to where the DI currently is and put another carbon block in it. Then you would hook it all together like the diagram in your earlier post. Sediment > Carbon > Carbon > RO Membrane > DI resin. This is how I currently have mine setup.
I can just get a simple 1 micro carbon block for that cannister I will be taking out the DI resin of? I dont need a 5 micron, or a "VOC Chlorine" carbon block? I am assuming i wont because I already have one in the stages, and I am using City water so not that much chlorine as it is.
 
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SauceyReef

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IMG_20240128_080322517.jpg
IMG_20240128_080354740.jpg
IMG_20240128_080417307.jpg

Here is good pics of proper way. The last two show a tool you can purchase from BRS to cut ro lines . You can add your old TDS meter by cutting the line and putting it in between as shown. IMG_20240128_080335213.jpg

Thank you! Would scissors be okay? Or is there a reason to get this tool? And just to clarify when you say "line" you mean the hollow blue tubing, not any wires for the TDS meter - correct?
 

InvaderJim

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I can just get a simple 1 micro carbon block for that cannister I will be taking out the DI resin of? I dont need a 5 micron, or a "VOC Chlorine" carbon block? I am assuming i wont because I already have one in the stages, and I am using City water so not that much chlorine as it is.
Yep. I use the basic 1 micron carbon block in both of mine.
 

Cichlid Dad

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Thank you! Would scissors be okay? Or is there a reason to get this tool? And just to clarify when you say "line" you mean the hollow blue tubing, not any wires for the TDS meter - correct?
Reason for tool is I clean cut. No water leak. Never use scissors. If careful a razor blade
 

Cichlid Dad

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@Cichlid Dad thank you for sticking with me. So the 1 microns will last longer than the 5 microns. So in that case I will always go with 1 micron.
To clarify, the 1 micron will make all of the expensive filters ie ro membrane and DI resin last longer. 5 micron allows more stuff through. Better at removing chemicals before it gets through to the other filters
 

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