BRS RO/DI Unit - What do I put in this Cannister?

[Cichlid Dad]

Thank you! Why even offer both?

I believe it is because these filters are used for many different purposes and not all require that much filtration, and higher water flow is wanted.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Thank you! Why even offer both?

Because, if you run 2 carbon canisters, the proper way is to use a 1 micron first and a 5 micron second (after the sediment/s). Seems backwards, I know, but it works.

Also, some people's water is "cleaner" than others'. Some need to run 2 sediments and 2 carbons.

 

[Cichlid Dad]

Because, if you run 2 carbon canisters, the proper way is to use a 1 micron on the first and a 5 micron on the second. Seems backwards, I know, but it works.

Also, some people's water is "cleaner" than others'. Some need to run 2 sediments and 2 carbons.

Makes sense

 

[Jamie814]

Makes sense

A 5-micron filter removes less sediment than a 1-micron filter, meaning you'll need to change it less often as it won't clog as fast as a 1-micron filter.

Because a 1-micron filter removes more sediment it will need replacing more often BUT at the same time it will extend the life of your other filters/stages including the membrane. It's basically a tradeoff.

You can run as many stages as you like but there are really only 4 different filters on a RO/DI unit just multiples of them.

Some units run Multiple filters with different micron ratings or target specific water quality issues like chlorine for more efficiency and or increased production, but they are always in this order regardless of the type or number of filters used,

1 Sediment
2 Carbon
3 Membrane
4 DI

Your DI cartridge should always be the LAST stage in any RO/DI filter system, putting it before any other stage just wastes DI resin.

Your TDS meter generally is placed inline BEFORE and AFTER the DI cartridge as this is where you want to monitor the TDS levels.

 

[wanderer]

Most people on city water can get by with just a 4 stage filter. Before doing any modifications it would be helpful to know what the TDS is straight out of the tap and also if you have chloramines or any other unusual solutes.

 

[Jamie814]

I am getting a bit confused though. The Color changing DI resin is actually the 3rd stage I believe? The 4th stage would be the white cannister on the top. On the BRS site it says the 3rd stage is the "GPD Dow Filmtec Membrane"

Your looking at the unit wrong. The three vertical canisters hanging on the unit are not stages 1,2 & 3 They are stages 1,2 & 4 the 3rd stage is the horizontal membrane or "cannister" on the top of the unit. If you follow the water lines you can see how they are routed.

 

[Cichlid Dad]

A 5-micron filter removes less sediment than a 1-micron filter, meaning you'll need to change it less often as it won't clog as fast as a 1-micron filter.

Because a 1-micron filter removes more sediment it will need replacing more often BUT at the same time it will extend the life of your other filters/stages including the membrane. It's basically a tradeoff.

You can run as many stages as you like but there are really only 4 different filters on a RO/DI unit just multiples of them.

Some units run Multiple filters with different micron ratings or target specific water quality issues like chlorine for more efficiency and or increased production, but they are always in this order regardless of the type or number of filters used,

1 Sediment
2 Carbon
3 Membrane
4 DI

Your DI cartridge should always be the LAST stage in any RO/DI filter system, putting it before any other stage just wastes DI resin.

Your TDS meter generally is placed inline BEFORE and AFTER the DI cartridge as this is where you want to monitor the TDS levels.

Did you read any of my post on here?

 

[Jamie814]

Did you read any of my post on here?

Yes I did. I was trying the make it simple to understand. The OP does not have the same unit as you and the plumbing is not setup the same way. The OP can not simply change the 3rd vertical stock DI canister into a carbon block because the way it is setup the water is routed through it after the membrane, not before it. It will serve no purpose after the membrane. The lines also need to changed around. He will need to replumb the 3 vertical canisters to all be inline before the membrane then after the membrane into his separate DI unit he already has.

He is best running it as stock how he got it with the extra DI canister he already had in line last making the last 2 canisters both DI which is fine and will extend the life of the DI resin.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

He is best running it as stock how he got it with the extra DI canister he already had in line last making the last 2 canisters both DI which is fine and will extend the life of the DI resin.

The alternative to this would be to add the extra canister at the front and put the sediment filter there, using the current sed and carbon spots for 2 carbons.

 

[SauceyReef]

A 5-micron filter removes less sediment than a 1-micron filter, meaning you'll need to change it less often as it won't clog as fast as a 1-micron filter.

Because a 1-micron filter removes more sediment it will need replacing more often BUT at the same time it will extend the life of your other filters/stages including the membrane. It's basically a tradeoff.

You can run as many stages as you like but there are really only 4 different filters on a RO/DI unit just multiples of them.

Some units run Multiple filters with different micron ratings or target specific water quality issues like chlorine for more efficiency and or increased production, but they are always in this order regardless of the type or number of filters used,

1 Sediment
2 Carbon
3 Membrane
4 DI

Your DI cartridge should always be the LAST stage in any RO/DI filter system, putting it before any other stage just wastes DI resin.

Your TDS meter generally is placed inline BEFORE and AFTER the DI cartridge as this is where you want to monitor the TDS levels.

Thank you for the info you are helping hone it down and simplify this for me. I am a bit confused with your last sentence above. Do you mean I need 2 TDS meters? If not how would I place it both before and after the DI cartridge? I thought it just went in between the RO stages, and the final DI stage. Or do you mean if the last two on the 5 stage are 2 DI cannisters like you explained below just put them between the two?

Most people on city water can get by with just a 4 stage filter. Before doing any modifications it would be helpful to know what the TDS is straight out of the tap and also if you have chloramines or any other unusual solutes.

I am not sure how I would even do that with the current TDS meter attached to the older DI cannister I have. I do have Akron, OH water analysis though - is this sufficient? This is where I live.
https://cms2.revize.com/revize/akronoh/Documents/Departments/Service/Water Supply Bureau/Reports/aws_2022_ccr.pdf

Yes I did. I was trying the make it simple to understand. The OP does not have the same unit as you and the plumbing is not setup the same way. The OP can not simply change the 3rd vertical stock DI canister into a carbon block because the way it is setup the water is routed through it after the membrane, not before it. It will serve no purpose after the membrane. The lines also need to changed around. He will need to replumb the 3 vertical canisters to all be inline before the membrane then after the membrane into his separate DI unit he already has.

He is best running it as stock how he got it with the extra DI canister he already had in line last making the last 2 canisters both DI which is fine and will extend the life of the DI resin.

Replying to your last comment - in that case all I have to do is get some new DI resin for the 5th and old cannister I have that I am attaching as the final stage? Would @EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal's alternative technically not work for me because I only have that TDS meter attached to the extra old canister, so putting it at the front would make the TDS not work, or give a useless reading?

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Thank you for the info you are helping hone it down and simplify this for me. I am a bit confused with your last sentence above. Do you mean I need 2 TDS meters? If not how would I place it both before and after the DI cartridge? I thought it just went in between the RO stages, and the final DI stage. Or do you mean if the last two on the 5 stage are 2 DI cannisters like you explained below just put them between the two?

I am not sure how I would even do that with the current TDS meter attached to the older DI cannister I have. I do have Akron, OH water analysis though - is this sufficient? This is where I live.
https://cms2.revize.com/revize/akronoh/Documents/Departments/Service/Water Supply Bureau/Reports/aws_2022_ccr.pdf


Replying to your last comment - in that case all I have to do is get some new DI resin for the 5th and old cannister I have that I am attaching as the final stage? Would @EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal's alternative technically not work for me because I only have that TDS meter attached to the extra old canister, so putting it at the front would make the TDS not work, or give a useless reading?

I was not taking the TDS meter into account... sorry.

 

[SauceyReef]

I was not taking the TDS meter into account... sorry.

Ahh okay. So I should just keep the TDS meter on the final DI 5th stage/cannister, correct? No reason to put it in between 2 DI cannisters if that is what I go with.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Ahh okay. So I should just keep the TDS meter on the final DI 5th stage/cannister, correct? No reason to put it in between 2 DI cannisters if that is what I go with.

Definitely no reason to put it between canisters. Either before DI or after DI... As mentioned somewhere above, it can be helpful to know the TDS coming out of the membrane.

 

[Asm481]

If your whole reason to add the additional canister/stage is to have the tds meter you are making this all harder then it needs to be. That tds meter can be moved over to your new system. There is an in and out marking on the part where the wires go into the tee. In wants to be before the di and out after the di. This is how most run so you can monitor how your ro membrane is doing and when to replace di. Some people on bad water put the in sensor for the tds before the ro membrane.
Those are John quest type fittings. View how to use them on utube. Very simple and you don't need special tools to cut the lines. Cut straight with a sharp razor blade.

 

[Jamie814]

So I should just keep the TDS meter on the final DI 5th stage/cannister,

TDS meter can go anywhere you want to know the TDS level of the production water throughout the filtration process. Depending on the type of meter you use (there are several types of TDS meters) single, dual and triple but they all read the same thing, you can just read multiple locations with a single meter.

Triple meter generally you would place it on tap water, after membrane and after DI resin.

Dual (most common) I like to place on incoming tap water and after DI resin, so you know when to change the media.

Single after DI resin.

It looks like you have a dual meter in your picture, I would connect it on your incoming tap water and after the DI resin canister. Like previously mentioned by others don't cut the lines with a scissors, it will pinch the line and possibly cause a poor seal and leaks with the JG fittings. Use a utility blade or knife to cut the line straight and square and do not squish it when cutting.

 

[wanderer]

Thank you for the info you are helping hone it down and simplify this for me. I am a bit confused with your last sentence above. Do you mean I need 2 TDS meters? If not how would I place it both before and after the DI cartridge? I thought it just went in between the RO stages, and the final DI stage. Or do you mean if the last two on the 5 stage are 2 DI cannisters like you explained below just put them between the two?

I am not sure how I would even do that with the current TDS meter attached to the older DI cannister I have. I do have Akron, OH water analysis though - is this sufficient? This is where I live.
https://cms2.revize.com/revize/akronoh/Documents/Departments/Service/Water Supply Bureau/Reports/aws_2022_ccr.pdf


Replying to your last comment - in that case all I have to do is get some new DI resin for the 5th and old cannister I have that I am attaching as the final stage? Would @EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal's alternative technically not work for me because I only have that TDS meter attached to the extra old canister, so putting it at the front would make the TDS not work, or give a useless reading?

THe 2 most important thing on the water report are
1. Your water source has chlorine and not chloramine. (chloramine needs an extra carbon block, chlorine doesn't)
2. They measured TDS and it was 298. The issue is that it can vary from house to house. You can buy a handheld TDS meter on amazon for 10-15 USD. But either way a 4 stage unit is likely more than adequate

 

[SauceyReef]

If your whole reason to add the additional canister/stage is to have the tds meter you are making this all harder then it needs to be. That tds meter can be moved over to your new system. There is an in and out marking on the part where the wires go into the tee. In wants to be before the di and out after the di. This is how most run so you can monitor how your ro membrane is doing and when to replace di. Some people on bad water put the in sensor for the tds before the ro membrane.
Those are John quest type fittings. View how to use them on utube. Very simple and you don't need special tools to cut the lines. Cut straight with a sharp razor blade.

Is it really that big of a deal I am adding an extra cannister that I have laying around from my old unit that has the TDS Meter on it? Wont that just theoretically save me a little time and energy? Worst case scenario I have a bit of an overkill unit for what I need, and it will make it so I don't have to change filters as much. I greatly appreciate your explanation, but I would prefer not to mess with the wiring at this point if I don't have to. I will certainly use the BRS tool for cutting the lines!

I never realized I had a dual TDS meter! That would have been helpful back in the day. That is awesome it can test two different stages at once. Just because I already know my tap water specs pretty well with Akron's website, I think I will put one before the DI stages, and one after so I can know the TDS of everything before the DI and know when I need to start replacing the carbon blocks / sediment filters, or specifically the DI resin.

@wanderer do you or anyone else here have a suggestion on a solid portable TDS meter that is relatively inexpensive? I will use that for the tap!



In conclusion: I am going to make it a 5 stage. The last two stages will be DI blocks as suggested by @Jamie814 unless I hear a important reason not to do this from someone else. I will run the dual TDS meter before and after the two DI cannisters to know what my TDS is before the DI and after. My next purchases are:
- DI Cannister Media
- Line Cutting Tool
- Float Valve
- Water Basin (do I need a float valve with the BRS water basin? Or does the basin automatically stop the unit when full)

 

[Floyd-]

THe 2 most important thing on the water report are
1. Your water source has chlorine and not chloramine. (chloramine needs an extra carbon block, chlorine doesn't)
2. They measured TDS and it was 298. The issue is that it can vary from house to house. You can buy a handheld TDS meter on amazon for 10-15 USD. But either way a 4 stage unit is likely more than adequate

Agreed. What is your TDS from the water source? I bet the 4 stage setup is fine and you are just over thinking it.

 

[Dburr1014]

Because, if you run 2 carbon canisters, the proper way is to use a 1 micron first and a 5 micron second (after the sediment/s). Seems backwards, I know, but it works.

Also, some people's water is "cleaner" than others'. Some need to run 2 sediments and 2 carbons.

1 micrometer or micron equals 0.001 mm, or about 0.000039 inch.
5 micron is 0.000197

5 micron is bigger.

Edit: I think normally the way to do this is you go through a bigger cartridge first and then the smaller cartridge.

If you go to the smaller cartridge first it will clog catching a larger particles before it goes to the bigger micron. And the bigger Micron wouldn't be doing anything because all the particles would have been caught already.

 

[SauceyReef]

Is it really that big of a deal I am adding an extra cannister that I have laying around from my old unit that has the TDS Meter on it? Wont that just theoretically save me a little time and energy? Worst case scenario I have a bit of an overkill unit for what I need, and it will make it so I don't have to change filters as much. I greatly appreciate your explanation, but I would prefer not to mess with the wiring at this point if I don't have to. I will certainly use the BRS tool for cutting the lines!

I never realized I had a dual TDS meter! That would have been helpful back in the day. That is awesome it can test two different stages at once. Just because I already know my tap water specs pretty well with Akron's website, I think I will put one before the DI stages, and one after so I can know the TDS of everything before the DI and know when I need to start replacing the carbon blocks / sediment filters, or specifically the DI resin.

@wanderer do you or anyone else here have a suggestion on a solid portable TDS meter that is relatively inexpensive? I will use that for the tap!



In conclusion: I am going to make it a 5 stage. The last two stages will be DI blocks as suggested by @Jamie814 unless I hear a important reason not to do this from someone else. I will run the dual TDS meter before and after the two DI cannisters to know what my TDS is before the DI and after. My next purchases are:
- DI Cannister Media
- Line Cutting Tool
- Float Valve
- Water Basin (do I need a float valve with the BRS water basin? Or does the basin automatically stop the unit when full)

I greatly appreciate everyone who has chimed in, and helped. Any comments / opinions on my conclusion?

@Floyd- about 300 PPM