BRS RO/DI Unit - What do I put in this Cannister?

[Gill the 3rd]

Who knew RODI filters would bring out such passion in people lol? That's usually reserved for any of the lighting threads.

For what its worth, BRS recently put out a video out regarding RODI filtration that I thought had a lot of good information that would pertain to this thread. I'm not a BRS fanboy by any means (quite the opposite), but I thought this was an interesting one.

 

[KStatefan]

I have not watched that video but did see some of the shorts on instagram and what I saw was good information.

Russ has told me a couple of times that I have my carbon backwards (The Workman - 5 Micron 6,000 gal then The Chlorine Grabber - 0.5 Micron 20,000 gal) it does not make any sense to me to run the 5 micron after so when I am out of those I am just going to run two of the 0.5 micron.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

I have not watched that video but did see some of the shorts on instagram and what I saw was good information.

Russ has told me a couple of times that I have my carbon backwards (The Workman - 5 Micron 6,000 gal then The Chlorine Grabber - 0.5 Micron 20,000 gal) it does not make any sense to me to run the 5 micron after so when I am out of those I am just going to run two of the 0.5 micron.

Yes - in your case should be highest capacity block first - the Grabber, followed by the Workman.

 

[cjtabares]

The idea here is to allow your sediment filter(s) to do their job (capture sediment) and allow your carbon block(s) to do their job.

By the time the water gets to the carbon blocks, if the micron ratings on all filters are designed correctly, sediment should be a non-issue. Maybe an example will help here:

BAD: 5 micron sediment->1 micron carbon (the carbon block will capture sediment between 5 and 1 micron)

If you use two carbon blocks, use your best carbon block (highest chlorine capacity) to handle the fully chlorinated water right out of the sediment filter. Use your lower capacity carbon block next to catch any chlorine that got past the first block.

Also - with few exceptions, there's no need for two carbon blocks on systems fed non-chlorinated well water.

I asked on another thread why to put the higher capacity carbon 1st, this seem to make sense.

 

[SauceyReef]

YEOW! Thanks for the invitation but not sure where to weigh in here. This thread may win the award for the most confusion, misunderstanding, mis-used jargon, and half correct posts!

Would take forever to go through 4 pages and comment on everything...

If someone has a very specific question, lay it on me.

To the OP - don't forget to allow your vendor to try to answer questions pertaining to their system.

Russ

Surprisingly they have been totally unhelpful so far, and near downright rude. Even though this thread has gotten crazy messy it has answered most of my questions SOMEWHERE, and I think is on to some good arguments/discussion. At least you all are getting back with me and reading my responses..

Run 2 1 micron carbon filters and call it a day.

My unit came with the 5 micron VOC chlorine carbon block, so I will automatically have one in there with the 5 micron sediment filter first.

For those arguing order and which Micron maybe you should just look at the BRS models. Do they run any with a 1 micron, than 5 micron after or vice versa? I am not seeing any. On the 4 Stage Value 100GPD RO/DI System the first cannister stage just says Micron Sediment Filter. Does that mean it is a 1 micron? My biggest issue with BRS is their lack of proper labeling, and explaining each stage for all their individual units.


I am still wondering if my conclusion is okay for the purchases. Would love to hear some input on this instead of still seeing everyone argue over a 1 micron or 5 micron order (although please continue with that also).

""In conclusion: I am going to make it a 5 stage. The last two stages will be DI blocks as suggested by @Jamie814 unless I hear a important reason not to do this from someone else. I will run the dual TDS meter before and after the two DI cannisters to know what my TDS is before the DI and after. My next purchases are:
- DI Cannister Media
- Line Cutting Tool
- Float Valve
- Water Basin (do I need a float valve with the BRS water basin? Or does the basin automatically stop the unit when full)""

 

[Derrick0580]

I guess my eight stage rodi is over kill! I run a brs system, 1 micron sediment, 5 micron carbon, 1 micron carbon, 2 ro membranes(both spectrapure 99% rejection membranes) over to individual cation, anion, then a mixed bed canister. Water comes in at 365-385 tds to 3 tds before di resin.

 

[KStatefan]

For those arguing order and which Micron maybe you should just look at the BRS models. Do they run any with a 1 micron, than 5 micron after or vice versa? I am not seeing any. On the 4 Stage Value 100GPD RO/DI System the first cannister stage just says Micron Sediment Filter. Does that mean it is a 1 micron? My biggest issue with BRS is their lack of proper labeling, and explaining each stage for all their individual units.

The description says
"Stage 1


Purtrex 5 Micron Depth Sediment Filter"

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

.

 

[Dburr1014]

Deleted my post.
Sometimes you just have to move on.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

- DI Cannister Cartridge Media https://www.buckeyehydro.com/mixed-bed-di-resin/
- Line Cutting Tool https://www.buckeyehydro.com/tubing-cutter/
- Float Valve https://www.buckeyehydro.com/float-valves/

 

[edd59]

I guess my eight stage rodi is over kill! I run a brs system, 1 micron sediment, 5 micron carbon, 1 micron carbon, 2 ro membranes(both spectrapure 99% rejection membranes) over to individual cation, anion, then a mixed bed canister. Water comes in at 365-385 tds to 3 tds before di resin.

same here and i'll continue to run it this was. just makes sense to me.

 

[Derrick0580]

What I don’t get is how to tell when to change sediment and carbon blocks. Before doing any research, I ordered a second 2 probe tds meter and added it to my system. The original one that came with the system was before and after the di resin. The new probes I installed after the booster pump before the sediment and carbon and then after them. What really gets me is that the tds goes up after the sediment and carbon blocks which apparently is normal (I did not know this). If the membranes are working as they should, is there a way to know when to change the prefilters?

 

[cjtabares]

What I don’t get is how to tell when to change sediment and carbon blocks. Before doing any research, I ordered a second 2 probe tds meter and added it to my system. The original one that came with the system was before and after the di resin. The new probes I installed after the booster pump before the sediment and carbon and then after them. What really gets me is that the tds goes up after the sediment and carbon blocks which apparently is normal (I did not know this). If the membranes are working as they should, is there a way to know when to change the prefilters?

If I understand correctly, you would put a pressure gauge after the sediment filter to tell when to replace it. For the carbon you test the output of your carbon blocks for chlorine and or chloramine to tell when to replace them. I don’t remember the unit of measurement right now, but if .1 is getting through the carbon it is time to replace.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

If I understand correctly, you would put a pressure gauge after the sediment filter to tell when to replace it. For the carbon you test the output of your carbon blocks for chlorine and or chloramine to tell when to replace them. I don’t remember the unit of measurement right now, but if .1 is getting through the carbon it is time to replace.

This is correct. You use pressure to determine when to replace the prefilters. ("Pre" membrane)

 

[Derrick0580]

This is correct. You use pressure to determine when to replace the prefilters. ("Pre" membrane)

How much psi are we talking? My pressure gauge is set to 85 with my booster pump running.

 

[Cichlid Dad]

How much psi are we talking? My pressure gauge is set to 85 with my booster pump running.

I run 85 psi

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

How much psi are we talking? My pressure gauge is set to 85 with my booster pump running.

When you notice a clear pressure drop, then you'll know it's time to change filters. I can't tell you what that number is - it's up to you how long you want to run with somewhat clogged filters. Change them too soon and you're wasting money. Wait too long and you can reduce the efficiency of the membrane.

*And remember, we're only talking clogged filters. Your carbon block/s may exhaust on a different schedule. I have a cheap chlorine test kit from a pool store and periodically test the water after the carbon (before the membrane) to make sure all the chlorine is still being removed.

 

[SauceyReef]

Still just waiting for one or two people here to confirm my plan looks good! Surprisingly I am getting much more effective help here than from BRS. Finally got some good replies/info from them I added below though. It is funny they had to send me a diagram like the one below where the staff had to number it for me bc they don't actually have one on the website that displays anything like this.

In conclusion: I am going to make it a 5 stage. I am unsure if I should make the last two stages DI blocks as suggested by @Jamie814, or do two x2 carbon block per BRS suggestion. Anyone have any ideas?

Here is the photo BRS sent me with their suggestion. Still a bit confused exactly what Micron I should be getting on the carbon blocks from all of your crazy debates/conversations above haha.

 

[Jamie814]

I would just do the last 2 stages both DI and rotate 1 new resin into the last stage as your TDS creeps above a few PPT.

When your DI water reads a TDS of 3+ move the stage 5 resin to stage 4 and replace the resin in the last stage - stage 5. This way you're fully exhausting the DI resin before tossing it.

Micron ratings are all opinions and subjective to tap water quality. I have about 250-300 incoming TDS on well water and use 5-micron sediment and carbon filters and get 0 TDS after DI.....

 

[Derrick0580]

In order to have 2 di resin canisters you will need a 6 stage system. The one pictured is a 5 stage with only 1 being a mixed bed of DI resin. Imo if you go this route I would separate out the di resin and just buy bulk bags of cation and anion this way you can just replace the anion as it will be used up at a much faster rate than the cation. With mixed resin you are pretty much throwing away good cation every time you change it out.