Build thread for 80 DBP rimless

ReelRednekReefer

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What are the substate plans? Im planning a 90g/40g sump. I also build my own stands for same reasons. Looking at similar RW series Ph's but would like to try the Gyre 150 also! Good to know about the Pukani as I would like to try it with this build.

I have the RO NWB-110 and found it to work great! Easily tunable and pulled great skimmate.
 
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A mix of Indo Pacific Black and Hawaiian Black sands for me. Not tried the Gyre so hope that works out well for you.
 

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A mix of Indo Pacific Black and Hawaiian Black sands for me. Not tried the Gyre so hope that works out well for you.

Dave I have a half bag of Indo Black you can have.
 

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Looks like your making good progress! I have the or t247 over my frag tank and have been happy with it. I just looked at a pic of the avengers frag - very nice!
 

ReelRednekReefer

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Finally, for today, the dead LR is cooking. I always start out with Pukani (so nice and light but full of dead sponges, starfish, who knows what else) but put it in a hydrochloric acid bath first (dissolve the outer layer off a bit) followed by a lanthanum chloride treatment to precipitate out the phosphorus. It has worked well for me in the past and minimizes the nuisance algae problems in the beginning. Add a small piece of real LR from the LFS and let it steep for a couple of weeks. Needs a water change as the organic compounds from the LR are coloring the water but it should be ready in about a week:
P1040719.jpg

Would you mind detailing or linking to the steps you use to cook you rock? My rock started dead 2 years ago then cycled, then dried, then in a cichlid tank, then bleached then in a reef for 9 months now dry again. Your methods sounds involved enough to clean my poorly treated rock. Is this method quicker than basic "cooking"?
 
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I do a gallon of Muratic acid with the rest tap water in a Rubbermaid container just enough to cover the rock and let it sit overnight. I put 2 gallons of acid in the last time and dissolved some of the "good rock" so that's too much (unless you have 100 lbs. or more of rock). It foams like crazy and overflows so I do it outside. I then drain that and rinse twice in RO (not DI, could probably use tapwater) water. Then I fill with fresh RO water and add PoolTime (SeaClear is another manufacturer) lanthanum chloride, about 1-2 cups, and leave overnight with a power head. Drain and rinse (lots of precipitate in the bottom of the container) and repeat twice or until precip is virtually non-existent. Final rinse is RO/DI water and you're ready to go. Pukani will still have dead/decaying matter on it so you'll have to cycle. Tonga branch is much easier to treat. Don't know about the terrestrial rock. Whole process takes less than a week.
 

ReelRednekReefer

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Thank you! Gonna start it tonight! I will document my experience since I'm using base rock ( limestone) incase some else would like to know how it works out. Im still building the stand so I will likely start to 'cure' the rock after cleaning in another vat simply to possibly expedite the cycle process.
Thanks again!
 

ReelRednekReefer

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That's always nice to finally get water in the tank!

Thanks for the rock cleaning advice. It worked like a champ! I had to bleach them to get the stains out but the acid got rid of all the old growth. The LC is working well also!
 
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Recaulked the overflow to raise the water level, installed some of the plumbing, positioned everything and drilled holes in stand for overflow and return, positioned lights and installed new hanging cables, installed sump and caulked some of the baffles, and started filling, mixing and heating the water:

P1040724.jpg


Dave
 
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Need to test ammonia, nitrites and nitrates on the LR tub to see how that is coming along. I anticipate adding sand tomorrow after water level is good and perhaps LR. Also did all the electrical today including installing GFI on the outlet and mounting power strips and most of the pumps.

Dave
 

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Coming along nicely. Did you completely remove the adjustable water gate on the overflow?
 
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No, I put silicone on the lower 1/2 of the weirs and flipped the adjustable water gate over. This should permit minor adjustments depending on the return flow rate (I'm going for a DC controllable return pump) without the weeping I've experienced in the past with these overflows from loose-fitting parts. Kinda hard to explain if you're not familiar with the DBP products. Amazing with over 200 lbs. of water I can still slide the stand on the HW floors and tweak the position.

Dave
 

ReelRednekReefer

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I also felt the DBP adjustable gate left a little to be desired in design, but never resealed it. May do that when I eventually restart 45g as an actual frag tank.

Are you concerned at all about not having an emergency drain? I ran my return over the top and used the second pipe in the overflow as a emergency drain.
 
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Are you concerned at all about not having an emergency drain? I ran my return over the top and used the second pipe in the overflow as a emergency drain.
Perhaps a teeny bit but the likelihood of an overflow with the weir and a strainer on the drain is pretty low. Also, not sure, but with the sump level at about 8" and a DC pump that is supposed to shutdown if it runs dry I think the possibility is low. Since I've had a tank flood on one occasion in this large room I positioned the tank in a location that minimized the amount of hardwood floor I would have to tear up should I experience a flood. Not my first choice of location but I do have to consider all consequences.

Dave
 
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Almost filled the main tank with water, plumbed the Jebao DC-6000, turned the power heads on, programmed the lights, installed the skimmer. Later this week I'll be placing the sand and LR (which should be about cycled). Getting close with the setup!

Dave
 

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