Built like a tank: my Innovative Marine Nuvo EXT 100 build

[GunnarH]

A check valve WILL fail

The sump that came with this tank is enormous (57 gal), so there's plenty of room for water to siphon back into the sump when the pump is off. So, I'm thinking I agree with you on this one.

I'd love to hear from anyone else out there with an EXT 100 & RFS39 who happen to disagree with this...?

 

[GunnarH]

Opening up the box with the parts for the stand to check that everything is there. I could easily lift the box by myself, which means the stand is going to be fairly light in weight.

There aren't that many parts and assembly looks pretty straight forward.

The instructions leaflet is inside the plastic bag with small parts, in the foreground to the left in the picture.

Mine arrived undamaged, but I given how thin the styrofoam padding is, I wouldn't have been surprised if those long aluminum profiles had gotten damaged in shipping. They're very strong for the static loads they're supposed to support, but not indestructible.

All in all though: great looking stand, and extremely durable. This is one area where IM shines.

 

[BubblesandSqueak]

The sump that came with this tank is enormous (57 gal), so there's plenty of room for water to siphon back into the sump when the pump is off. So, I'm thinking I agree with you on this one.

I'd love to hear from anyone else out there with an EXT 100 & RFS39 who happen to disagree with this...?

if you keep the return nozzles above the return ports, it will break siphon suction when the pump stops and only drain till that level.

 

[KStatefan]

I saw that and went ahead and purchased bulkheads for 1" and 3/4" PVC. They're way too big to fit the holes.
My guess is the sizes they list are actual hole diameter, not PVC size.

I even watched the installation video for clues, but I still can't tell what size PVC pipe they're using.

Hopefully not some obscure/proprietary fittings.

My 100 EXT uses 3/4' PVC for the returns and 1" PVC for the drains.

 

[JayM]

My 100 EXT uses 3/4' PVC for the returns and 1" PVC for the drains.

That's what I was afraid of. All of the bulkheads that I can find for 1" PVC require a 45mm hole. The overflow holes on the tank are a little over 33mm. Same situation with the return holes. Roughly 10mm too small for the correct PVC size.

IM must use something proprietary/out of the ordinary and I can't get them to answer the phone when it's convenient for me to call.

 

[Fishy Guy]

Exciting build! I'll be following along.

 

[GunnarH]

answer the phone when it's convenient for me to call

Captain Obvious here, but have you tried emailing them? They've always been quick to reply when I've had questions.

 

[JayM]

Captain Obvious here, but have you tried emailing them? They've always been quick to reply when I've had questions.

I did. Still waiting on a response, but I did manage to talk to a guy named Brian. He said that their measurements are pipe OD (which would mean I need 3/4" and 1/2" bulkheads - not 1" and 3/4") and to call parts with the hole measurements and order some. I'm still unsure though. The plumbing on their video looks to be 3/4" and 1". I see a logo or name on their fittings in the vid, just not clear enough to make out what it is.

 

[Mikeltee]

I'll be adding both sand and reef rock, but I'm going HNSA, so minimalist.

That's news to me, and very interesting. What's the downside to adding more surface area for bacteria to colonize?

If you have live rock you have all of the bio media that you need. Those bio balls cause a mess. Like I said... if you don't have live rock you are going to need them else I'd skip them. It also depends on the live rock you choose. If you are using all shelf rock than the bio balls will help. If you choose a proper porous rock such as Marco rock I'd skip them. Use the space in the sump you save for Reactors and of course your skimmer. Also check out Santa Monica Surf Scrubbers. They keep the algae away. I just got one.

 

[KStatefan]

I did. Still waiting on a response, but I did manage to talk to a guy named Brian. He said that their measurements are pipe OD (which would mean I need 3/4" and 1/2" bulkheads - not 1" and 3/4") and to call parts with the hole measurements and order some. I'm still unsure though. The plumbing on their video looks to be 3/4" and 1". I see a logo or name on their fittings in the vid, just not clear enough to make out what it is.

They must have changed something then from when I got mine but that was a few years ago. Sounds like they went to non standard plumbing sizes if they are using OD measurements.

 

[GunnarH]

Also check out Santa Monica Surf Scrubbers

Very cool. Thanks for the tip!

 

[Naekuh]

They must have changed something then from when I got mine but that was a few years ago. Sounds like they went to non standard plumbing sizes if they are using OD measurements.

I think they did change them over to US standards, and not the metric they used to be.
This is another reason why i went IM over Waterbox.
Because i know getting parts for Waterbox can be a nightmare since its all metric, and your at the mercy of BRS having it in stock.

But i can also confirm the newer stuff is all US standard.
My fittings will fit the supplied hardware incase i want to change something.

He said that their measurements are pipe OD (which would mean I need 3/4" and 1/2" bulkheads - not 1" and 3/4"

Huh im lost... which IM tank do you have and when did you buy it?
The bulkheads i got for the drain is 1", will fit 1" PVC schedule 40 or Schedule 80.
The Inlet fits 3/4" PVC.
The holes for bulkhead should be a tad bit bigger, thats because the bulkhead are slip in, hence go by outer diameter.

 

[coronarex]

Hello. I am excited for your new build and will definitely follow along. Seems like yesterday, I started mine. The only advice I can offer is to be patient. My system is thriving right now and I couldn't be happier. I hope the same for you in due time.

 

[JayM]

I think they did change them over to US standards, and not the metric they used to be.
This is another reason why i went IM over Waterbox.
Because i know getting parts for Waterbox can be a nightmare since its all metric, and your at the mercy of BRS having it in stock.

But i can also confirm the newer stuff is all US standard.
My fittings will fit the supplied hardware incase i want to change something.



Huh im lost... which IM tank do you have and when did you buy it?
The bulkheads i got for the drain is 1", will fit 1" PVC schedule 40 or Schedule 80.
The Inlet fits 3/4" PVC.
The holes for bulkhead should be a tad bit bigger, thats because the bulkhead are slip in, hence go by outer diameter.

EXT100. It’s less than a year old. The 3 holes for the drain measure the same as the OD of 1” PVC pipe. “Normal” bulkheads for 1” PVC are way too big and won’t work without drilling bigger holes. IM replied to my email yesterday and sent a pic of what they use.

They obviously aren’t the usual type of bulkhead, and have been terribly difficult to source anywhere but IM and Fiji Cube. I found a set of 4 on Amazon for $20. Hopefully they’re correct and I won’t need to spend $10 plus tax and shipping each at IM.

 

[GunnarH]

I hope the same for you

Thank you, much appreciated! And yes, patience is key.

 

[GunnarH]

Time to start assembling the stand. The instructions say to attach the plastic end caps to the ends of the side frame rails. Later in the instructions we're told to attach soft floor pads to the bottom ones and screw the top board into the top ones. But there's a problem with that (see below).

The end caps are very loose fitting and won't stay inside the frame rails. I ended up gluing mine in place. A minor issue and easily fixed, but kinda annoying.

 

[BubblesandSqueak]

Time to start assembling the stand. The instructions say to attach the plastic end caps to the ends of the side frame rails. Later in the instructions we're told to attach soft floor pads to the bottom ones and screw the top board into the top ones. But there's a problem with that (see below).

The end caps are very loose fitting and won't stay inside the frame rails. I ended up gluing mine in place. A minor issue and easily fixed, but kinda annoying.

The video was easier to follow than the written.

 

[X-37B]

I will be using a check valve on my ext170. The sump can hadle any back flow easily without it.
Just buy several and swap out when you want to clean it.
Swapping out is easy just run a pvc stick up the return to open the valve and drain all into sump then repair/replace whats needed.
If it ever fails their is no issue.
You can see it on the right.

 

[Naekuh]

I will be using a check valve on my ext170. The sump can hadle any back flow easily without it.
Just buy several and swap out when you want to clean it.
Swapping out is easy just run a pvc stick up the return to open the valve and drain all into sump then repair/replace whats needed.
If it ever fails their is no issue.
You can see it on the right.

I don't think it serves any purpose if your sump can handle the back flow.

Reason is it won't make your plumbing any easier, because water will get trapped between the check valve and your outlet.

That means 95% of your return line will be filled with water.
That also means, gg, ever removing that piece without setting up for a wet mess, as all that water will flow the moment you release the seal on the check valve.

Also a check valve impacts flow significantly.
Sharing a single return with 2 outlets makes things worse even, so you will need to use a good pump with great head pressure.

Lastly check valves always fail.
This is why i ultimately decided not to do anything and let it be.
I think the OP is also in that boat too.

Reduction in head pressure / flow + not really making maintance easy + is required to stop an accident..
The check valve there lost all points of advantage for me.

The only real thing that still had it going is that it would be a union in that spot which would make removal of that section easier, but again, its not that much of a merit of worth.

 

[X-37B]

I don't think it serves any purpose if your sump can handle the back flow.

Reason is it won't make your plumbing any easier, because water will get trapped between the check valve and your outlet.

That means 95% of your return line will be filled with water.
That also means, gg, ever removing that piece without setting up for a wet mess, as all that water will flow the moment you release the seal on the check valve.

Also a check valve impacts flow significantly.
Sharing a single return with 2 outlets makes things worse even, so you will need to use a good pump with great head pressure.

Lastly check valves always fail.
This is why i ultimately decided not to do anything and let it be.
I think the OP is also in that boat too.

Reduction in head pressure / flow + not really making maintance easy + is required to stop an accident..
The check valve there lost all points of advantage for me.

The only real thing that still had it going is that it would be a union in that spot which would make removal of that section easier, but again, its not that much of a merit of worth.

Wet mess, lol. Go back and read the post.
Run it how you like no problem.