Built not bought.

Builderguy

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Why would anyone buy anything when the option is there to make it yourself, saving money spend twice as much, an additional 9 months on the project, and collect hundreds in tools you wont use twice in 3 years.

JUMP TO RECIPE

Here comes the life story. I'll keep it brief, unlike recipe bloggers. Started in 2007 with a 75. Shut down in 2015. Met my wife in 2016... Little did she know of this addiction. Started a pico in 2019 and have pretty much doubled in size every 18 months. The tanks have been through 3-4 near total losses from wildfires, hurricanes, and a power outages while on vacay. So I haven't hit that stride like my 75 yet.

I have some corals that made it through hurricane Ian after coming all the way from Oregon in a bucket. Nifty!

This is another 60 cube build. You can change the channel if you want but I've got a 12 month head start on progress pix... so hopefully you won't fall asleep while "life gets in the way" of another man's fish tank. Cause I've already done that part 😅

Alright, enough fluff. The goal for the tank is pretty simple; get some good sized and pretty sticks to grow big enough to have a decent start in a 180-250g range tank in 3-5 years, when we buy a bigger house. Currently, everything is in a 40 breeder, which will ultimately become the frag tank.

***********

I'll start with the plumbing, my 75 had 400 and 250SE MHs [didn't I just say I was talking about plumbing?] in 'cool tubes' oh how I regret throwing those away, I can't find them in 4" anymore! What I learned with those hot suns a guns is keeping pumps out of the water makes a HUGE difference, and can be the difference between needing a chiller and using fans.

So I want to keep my return pumps and skimmer pump out of the water. That complicated the plumbing, as I also require the tank to be resilient and serviceable by a house sitter. That means manual isolation valves to each pump in event an o-ring starts leaking. I decided to combine their output to a manifold, but making these valves more accessible, as they'll be used to service equipment.

For the skimmer I'm using my tried and true turboflotor 1000 multi. Hopefully the new pump works out. Pretty much winging it, test and adjust. Obviously I need to trim back the output.

You can see a quick release nipple over the manifold. That's for a 2 gallon bucket fuge.

I built all this in our condo, before buying this house. Finally have a garage again. I kept this project out of my rented shop, as I have a tendency to generate a TON of dust and over spray.

Stay tuned for the rockwork. That's where it gets interesting.

IMG_20240726_190026_HDR.jpg IMG_20240818_155434_HDR.jpg IMG_20240818_155234_HDR.jpg IMG_20240818_155400_HDR.jpg
 

Gumbies R Us

God, Bouldering, and Reefing
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Following along! I'm very curious to see how this turns out!
 
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Builderguy

Builderguy

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Just... Wait for it. 😂 What looks like a crackhead experiment turned out perfectly. I mitered the PVC, and then offset the alignment a little here and there. The trick is not using too much glue or primer. I think what's happening on the stove is obvious.

This is the start to my rockwork. I wanted a 360 viewable tank because at this point we had not bought our house and the potential to put it at the end of a kitchen peninsula still existed. So instead of doing a tear or corner overflow, I opted for an island. However I didn't want the loss of space, so...

I decided to make my overflow have some negative space. Next steps coming...
 

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Builderguy

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To get the Herbie overflow and return all glued together I used a torch to soften the PVC, added glue and clamped. This let the pipes run into each other and I think helped in the end making the whole thing look like tonga rock.

I added the cross brace at the bottom to retain alignment. I did check alignment once again before using the Marco 400 on the bottom portion. I also left the unions unglued, as the slip joint will be more forgiving to misalignment on final fitment.

To get the Marco 400 to stick I used PVC glue to attach coral fragments. I bought a bag that had some bigger pieces instead of using Reborn. I would use more of the little nubbins in the future, as they are actually really nice to mount frag plugs next to and as securement for adding rocks to this base scape.

When I glued the sticks in place my two goals were to brace the structure and provide hiding spots for fish. Additional, I gained some horizontal real estate from them.

The top terminates into a custom acrylic box 6x4x4, not pictured.
 

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Reign1

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TF skimmer !! Yes going OG and DIY .. now we talking !!
 
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Builderguy

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I mentioned life getting in the way? The water line picture is from Helene. It prompted me to suddenly move out of my rented shop as I saw Milton coming. Glad I did because the shop got about 20". The space had been under 12' of water for Ian, and everybody said that was such a freak event it would never happen again. HA.

Right around that time we bought our house and I started on a remodel in my "spare time" [what the heck is spare time?]

Here's what the nano looked like at that time. It's overcrowded because at this point I knew I was upgrading. Unfortunately I got dinos shortly after and lost my milli frags. But everything else is kickin. Aptasia included. I've tried nudibranchs. Problem is they blow off the rocks in high flow. They've worked with lower flow tanks for me. So my plan is a copperband in the 60. Then I'll get nudis when the coral fill in.

I started soaking all my old rock with some seeds from the nano. One of those totes had rock that was outside for a few years, covered in moss, I did end up cutting some of those pieces for the nano reboot. I used lanthanum to keep PO4 in check as they cured.
 

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Builderguy

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Continuing to diverge from the cube itself for a moment. Here's a little more of the journey from condo to house. I set up a 40 breeder with as much tank water as I could over about a month while I worked on the house. Upon arrival I placed the plumbing rock in the tank and set my existing rock scape against it. Over the next several months I've played with the scape, and really gotten it to the point where it's just time to finish the cube. PXL_20250601_142615988.MP.jpg

The acrylic overflow is just loose in this picture. It will be permanently attached with epoxy once the rockwork is mounted on the cube. I'll make a jig to hold it straight and the idea here is that when I move I'll be able to place the jig on the tank for support and move the whole thing [drained] without redoing the scape. Which means the stand needs to be on casters and built very strongly. Oh yeah.... The stand... I mean I am a carpenter of 15 years, I can't forget about that.

You can see I've drilled some holes in my OG rock from the nano and remounted that skeleton. I'm still going to take a wack at it with a grinder to make that hole more natural, but I'm really trying to let the water MOVE. At this point the scape is pretty well planned out, which helps with the impulse buys, and turns my LFS visits into treasure hunts.

Another interesting thing you can see in this photo, the jebao dmp40 works great on the bottom of the tank! I'd love if I could only use several of those, but I am not opposed to using a gyre. Test and adjust.

That Oregon tort is going to be the anchor of the scape, sitting at what is currently the waterline.
 

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Builderguy

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Forgot the actual journey pix! Boy what a bubble algae problem! It's almost like I neglected the tank for several months. 🙄Pithos crabs have been far more helpful than emeralds with that.

That's my RO container. It lives outside and will be plumbed to the tank with 1/4 tubing sneakily tucked behind my baseboards.
 

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Last one for today, these could be the last pictures before I absolutely destroy the veneer and have to change plans completely. We're now up to live action building.

I opted to use 5/8cdx for the build. Why? Because I had some. If my truck was running I would not have hesitated to go get some 3/4 acx. But I'm not adding "repin the ECU connector" to my list of things to get this tank setup. So instead I used some wood filler and Bondo to finish both sides smooth. The outside is getting ribbon sapele veneer.

I'm using solid pieces of plywood on each side, I will cut the inset doors (4) out later. I am also doing box joints on the corners. This will make a very stiff box with no moments. Originally I had planned on doing this for just the frame and then using full overlay doors. However, after spending more than the materials themselves making this 42" dovetail jig, I decided the joints should be a feature. So I glued 5/16" mahogany strips to edge band the plywood.

PXL_20250627_140523370.jpg

I then applied the veneer nervously as it's a little bit of a large area for the hot press method. I opted out of contact cement because the plywood has some bow to it. Formica can stand a little kiss but if the veneer touches the substrate in the wrong spot with contact cement it's toast.

PXL_20250702_134244143.jpg

The next step is to cut the box joints. I've only ever done this with half blind dovetails on a machine in a cabinet shop that cost, in total outfit, about what my house does. I'm a little nervous about tearout on the veneer, since I've also only ever done this on solid woods. Time to get off my bum and get to work.

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Builderguy

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Hamilton. I can't stand LED panels. The point source style like kessils are okay, but I'd like to grow sps down to the bottom. So its diy reflector or diy some narrower optics into a host of lominie s120. I chose the known route, with less warranty voiding.
 

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IMG_20241215_144108.jpg

This child safety seat isn’t suitable during a bag deployment incident. I’m glad you got there safely!

I think this will be an interesting build and can’t wait to see it running!
 
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This child safety seat isn’t suitable during a bag deployment incident. I’m glad you got there safely!

Yeah no helmet law here but I buckled the corals because I heard Stony corals are protected by the law around here 😂
 
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PXL_20250702_192525317.jpg

I haven't seen blowout like that since my son was 3 months old. On the bottom there is my first attempt. I knew it would be bad but WOW. One thing I forgot, pine is soft and tools terribly, aside from being plywood. Second attempt is in the jig here. This spacing helps prevent tear out on the tail side. I also made a backer board for the pin side, not pictured, and I think with that I'm ready to go on cutting the real thing.

Yeah yeah I know the tester doesn't line up but it's getting late and I'm making a ruckus so I slammed through the pin side quickly. 1/32 is not enough protrusion, I'm going full send with an entire 1/8" to be safe. That's why made that edge banding 5/16 anyways.

I went ahead and got some oil on the veneer while I practiced. Pretty stuff, should have taken a picture before it soaked up the sheen. I like the front of this dovetail pattern, but the sides will have more end grain. The box joints were equal, which was on theme with my 360° viewing idea. I have a new router bit coming and I'll try those tomorrow. Seems like they're gonna be a joke to cut. Okay I'll shut up about wood for now.

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It worked! Pretty happy with how it's turned out so far. Talk about going against the grain 😅. Went together with a few well placed taps. Now the hard part, not touching it for 24 hours.

And a shot of my nem tank. Pretty happy with that right now, plan is to put a yellow submarine favia on the back wall, I'm just waiting for it to color back up before I frag it. PXL_20250706_163219047.jpg PXL_20250706_163504102.jpg PXL_20250704_161559053.jpg PXL_20250703_154649751.jpg PXL_20250704_230427825.MP.jpg
 
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Getting there. Couple oopsies with the veneer, I think I can make them disappear though. Adds character right?

The bottom ended up looking really complicated. But I wanted the floor to breath in case of spills. Maybe it'll come in handy for cord management. The top is as open as possible to allow for bottom dmp40 placement.

The whole thing is super light and incredibly ridgid. The doors may be a while before I put them on as I'm considering recessing them but need to check clearance first. I think I'm about 2-3 weeks away from
 

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Sooo close. New job has been slowing me down. Hoping to make the switch in the next few days. Man I really wish I'd put the temp tank somewhere else, oh well.

Still have to make the doors, I decided to bead trim and inset them instead of edge band them so I'll do them later. Pretty happy with how it all turned out. Everything is snug but plenty of room for maintenance.

I lost one of my sch80 bulkheads until I cleaned my garage. BRS doesn't carry these anymore and my OCD was going nuts with the black one in the middle. Once I found it I was incredibly happy to have a well placed union. Only took 5 minutes to swap. Even the sump itself only took about 10 minutes to remove to drill in another bulkhead for the bucket fuge.

Now if I can keep that level of serviceability once the wiring is done...
 

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Like a glove. 😁 And a shot of how I did the shelf with a screw to keep it strong across the grain. I use square 1gal jars for my two part. I was going to make the shelf high enough for the bucket fuge but I decided to use this shower drain flange as a shelf. Much easier and frees up a little room.

I'll have to upload more pix of the stand on good lighting once I do the doors and touch up a few spots. Best one I have is with my little dude helping (he keeps saying "Tank? Wawa?" And "WOAHHHH") I'm very happy with the outcome. First time using what's basically a DIY danish oil. Super easy. 4 coats total for a wiping method is pretty good in my book. Silky smooth, no dust nibs, and a nice satin sheen without chatoyance ruining sheen modifiers.

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