Bulkhead installed backwards and siliconed in

Fishy888

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I have a 90 gallon cube. I needed to get it set up in a hurry because my 75 leaked. My reef got shoehorned into a 30 gallon cube. I finally got everything I needed, or so I thought, to be able to plumb in my sump.

I knew the drain line's bulkhead was installed backwards. I thought the 1/2 to perhaps 3/4 of an inch sticking out was a coupler but it's just normal, everyday 1 1/4 inch PVC pipe. As I see it I have two options. Either I scrape the silicone off of the section of pipe sticking out or I can attempt to replace the bulkhead.

Choice number two would be optimal but I'm not sure if it was siliconed inside the overflow or not. If it is fixing it would be next to impossible.

Choice number one would be quicker by far and maybe cheaper. It's also the riskier method. The problem is it's likely the only option.

With either option I have to take up all the silicone. I have heard it said that a sharp blade, vinegar, and lots of elbow grease is the only way to get it off. How would I know if I got it all off though? Can a super thin layer remain without it feeling tacky? I just want to be sure I get it right the first time. Thank you.
 

((FORDTECH))

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I have a 90 gallon cube. I needed to get it set up in a hurry because my 75 leaked. My reef got shoehorned into a 30 gallon cube. I finally got everything I needed, or so I thought, to be able to plumb in my sump.

I knew the drain line's bulkhead was installed backwards. I thought the 1/2 to perhaps 3/4 of an inch sticking out was a coupler but it's just normal, everyday 1 1/4 inch PVC pipe. As I see it I have two options. Either I scrape the silicone off of the section of pipe sticking out or I can attempt to replace the bulkhead.

Choice number two would be optimal but I'm not sure if it was siliconed inside the overflow or not. If it is fixing it would be next to impossible.

Choice number one would be quicker by far and maybe cheaper. It's also the riskier method. The problem is it's likely the only option.

With either option I have to take up all the silicone. I have heard it said that a sharp blade, vinegar, and lots of elbow grease is the only way to get it off. How would I know if I got it all off though? Can a super thin layer remain without it feeling tacky? I just want to be sure I get it right the first time. Thank you.
Pictures would give us better idea.
but for what it’s worth if a glass tank a fresh new razor will cut silicon off like butter
 

((FORDTECH))

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I use one of those razor holders from AutoZone that is used to take city sticker off windshield this way it’s easier to hold and reach my arm down into overflow
 
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Fishy888

Fishy888

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Thank you guys. Here's a picture of what I'm looking at.
 

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Steven w

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If it were me I’d remove them out with all the silicone and install it the correct direction. Might be tough if they siliconed the other inside portion as well though.
 
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Fishy888

Fishy888

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I'm going to look closer and see if it's siliconed from inside the overflow. Hopefully not. Then again if it's siliconed from inside I might be able to push the section of pipe sticking out from the bottom upwards to remove the silicone. Otherwise it's door number two for me.
 

14 foot reef

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100% remove and install correctly. This will be a issue long term after tank is mature and running well, then you'll have to perform this same removal task 2 years down the road. Fix it correctly up front.
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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As long as the gasket is on the flange side, it does not matter which way the bulkhead is installed... Think of how a sump's bulkheads are installed vs the way they're usually installed on the tank/overflow.
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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100% remove and install correctly. This will be a issue long term after tank is mature and running well, then you'll have to perform this same removal task 2 years down the road. Fix it correctly up front.
Except for the silicone, the bulkhead is not installed incorrectly if the gasket is on the flange side.
 
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Fishy888

Fishy888

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Thank you everyone. I don't know for sure which side they're installed on but I intend to find out. If it's installed incorrectly I'll probably replace it. I might anyway.
 

redfishbluefish

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Erin has already stated this, but as long as the gasket is on the flange side, and you have the correct connectors (sllp or threaded) on the right side, all is good. It's the flange and gasket that makes the waterproof connection regardless if it's on the wet or dry side.
 

((FORDTECH))

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In my opinion no silicone is ever to be used on a bulkhead it is not necessary it never is necessary unless there’s an actually an issue with the ceiling surface that the gasket sits on People who use silicone on a new bulkhead with a smooth surface in my opinion are considered butchers and hacks Just like someone who would put silicone on a new gasket on an engine gasket is what seals it does not need silicone if properly cleaned. It’s just funny to me how often I see people recommend to put silicone on a new bulkhead for no reason whatsoever
 

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In my opinion no silicone is ever to be used on a bulkhead it is not necessary it never is necessary unless there’s an actually an issue with the ceiling surface that the gasket sits on People who use silicone on a new bulkhead with a smooth surface in my opinion are considered butchers and hacks Just like someone who would put silicone on a new gasket on an engine gasket is what seals it does not need silicone if properly cleaned. It’s just funny to me how often I see people recommend to put silicone on a new bulkhead for no reason whatsoever
It seems like the silicone is not on the gasket side of the bulkhead, at least from the photo.
I agree that it's not necessary on any part of the bulkhead but hopefully the gasket side is unadulterated.
 
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Fishy888

Fishy888

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Oh you wouldn't believe what I found on closer inspection. The "bulkheads" aren't bulkheads. They are just fittings that were stuck through a hole. It's siliconed from inside too. I temporarily cemented a fitting on there so I can use my sump for now but I am going to cycle another tank and transfer everything to it so I can add proper bulkheads. I'll probably have to remove the corner overflow to get at the silicone on the wet side.

It could be that they did it the way they did because they cracked or chipped the glass and the flange was too small to cover it. I hope that's not the case but it's a real possibility. If the glass is chipped or cracked should I just silicone that area? Of course if the gasket covers any crack or chip I won't silicone at all. I have installed bulkheads before but I never used silicone because it could very well cause a leak if it's not applied evenly.
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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Oh you wouldn't believe what I found on closer inspection. The "bulkheads" aren't bulkheads. They are just fittings that were stuck through a hole. It's siliconed from inside too. I temporarily cemented a fitting on there so I can use my sump for now but I am going to cycle another tank and transfer everything to it so I can add proper bulkheads. I'll probably have to remove the corner overflow to get at the silicone on the wet side.

It could be that they did it the way they did because they cracked or chipped the glass and the flange was too small to cover it. I hope that's not the case but it's a real possibility. If the glass is chipped or cracked should I just silicone that area? Of course if the gasket covers any crack or chip I won't silicone at all. I have installed bulkheads before but I never used silicone because it could very well cause a leak if it's not applied evenly.
Geez! That reminds me of a house I used to live in. Found a leak under the kitchen sink and discovered the previous owner had used duct tape (a LOT of duct tape) to fill the gap between the p-trap and the drain that was cut too short!
(Literally had a "pipe" made of duct tape, lol)
 
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Fishy888

Fishy888

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Wow! At least mine is just in an aquarium. In a house that's asking for trouble. I'm glad you caught it.

As for the drain line for the sump I'm going to make a way to support the pipe going from the fitting I cemented into the sump. That will take the weight off of the fittings.

It'll at least last long enough for me to get my chaeto back to health. I'll need everything to be healthy enough to be transferred to another tank for potentially a few days. I've already transferred everything back and forth twice.

I'll have to remove the corner overflow, get every bit of silicone off, and hope there aren't any cracks or chips. If it's just a chip I imagine some epoxy should fix it. Cracks would be bad most likely though.
 

redfishbluefish

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Now knowing what you have and going back and closely looking at the picture, I'm not sure you can fit two bulkheads that close together. That pictures makes it look like they are maybe a half inch space between the two holes. You can't fit the flanges/nuts with the holes being that close. I think that's why you simply have fittings siliconed into the holes.
 

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Now knowing what you have and going back and closely looking at the picture, I'm not sure you can fit two bulkheads that close together. That pictures makes it look like they are maybe a half inch space between the two holes. You can't fit the flanges/nuts with the holes being that close. I think that's why you simply have fittings siliconed into the holes.
You may be right. Looking at it now it looks like a diy job by the previous owner. Holes are not positioned right with respect to that corner overflow.
 
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