When water falling to the clean filter socks, it making noise. You can get the plastic mesh canvas sheet from Joann(Joann item#16057192) or other craft store, cut it to the size, put on top of the filter socks. If the water blow away the mesh, put a small piece of rock to hold it in place. This DIY sock silencer works very well. The plastic mesh also can be used for DIY algae scrubber.
If you have any quesitons feel free to reach out! ~Shaun K.
Thanks! Glad to have you along.
Thanks! It is a great tank. I have really decided on that. There will be a pair of clowns, a goby, a 3 spot damselfish, and a green mandarin coming over from my current tank. I'll definitely be adding a few tangs. Other than that I'm not sure.
Thanks! If I had to do it over, and I almost did, I would do more negative space and use CA glue. I only used the mortar and it took over a week. I do like the way it turned out and I don't think it would be worth the effort in redoing it for just a few more "holes".
They are shallow and I already have the ones you linked in my amazon basket. I just don't like the grey color and would really like black to blend in. I was able to find black ones for computer server racks, I may just have to go that route. I have a couple other ideas too. You'll just have to wait and see.
Algae Barn info on the web page is supposed to inspect each tank. However issues do happen. I am glad to know they stepped up and made the customer(you) happy. That is what really counts in the end. This is good to info, on my decision on a tank. Great explanation on the doors, you addressed a concern. Thanks again for this great review on a new tank!
Off subject but those duke sausages are so good! Lol Glad everything is coming together and looking good! ~Shaun K.Update 10/26/20:
So I've been in contact with AlgaeBarn about the two issues I had with my tank. The small leak and the mark on the bottom of the tank. I'm happy to say that AB stepped up and supported me in getting these issues resolved. Unfortunately I feel like CADE dropped the ball a little bit. Because I didn't take any photos or video of the leak before I fixed it they wouldn't do anything about it. As for the mark on the bottom of the tank, they assured me that because of their QC methods it couldn't have happened on their end. Like I said, AB stepped up and modified their shipping and handling methods in attempts that this doesn't happen to anyone else. The running theory is that one of the handle inserts on the shipping crate fell under the tank during shipping, causing the mark on the bottom of the tank. AB has compensated me beyond my expectations and I will not hesitate to do business with them again. Their customer service was on point, responding to most of my e-mails in real time or next business day.
I've been working on the sump area of the build the last couple weeks. I received a shipment with a fuge light, cheato, and copepds. The light mount and coralline algae seed should be here in the next couple days. I also printed some filter sock silencers and a copepod hotel on the 3d printer and they work like a charm.
Here's where I'm running into some trouble. I'm not sure which section to make the refugium.
Option 1: I can use the intended section for the refugium, pictured above. I would then put the skimmer in the large/main section just on the other side of the black divider and use the media baskets in the third section just before the return pump. This gives the refugium medium flow (cheto doesn't move). Gives me media baskets for carbon/chemi-pure. Has the smallest space for cheto growth.
Option 2: I can make the large section the refugium and place the skimmer in the third section and not use the media baskets at all. This seems to give the refugium the lowest amount of flow (cheto doesn't move). Huge area for cheto growth. Some cheto makes it's way into the third section.
Option 3: I can make the third section the refugium and place the skimmer in the main section like in option 1. High flow and the cheto rolls around. Some cheto makes it into the display from this option.
There have been some questions about the back of the tank, light mounting, and what's going on back there so here are some pictures of that section.
This is the overflow and drain.
This is where the ATO reservoir and the overflow meet. The pane of glass my thumb is resting on is what had the leak, at the bottom of this pane. You would also mount the light on the back pane of glass, where my finger is resting. No problems there but as you will see in the next photo, replacing the cover becomes tricky.
You would need to rest the lid on top of the light mounts or cut notches out of the cover if you wanted to continue using the cover. If resting the lid on the mounts it would no longer sit flush and instead sit at a 45 degree angle. Cutting the cover comes with it's own issues.
So I've had the tank full for between 1 and 2 weeks. The evaporation is pretty minimal. The ATO reservoir has dropped an inch or two. At this rate I would estimate well over a month or two of water in the reservoir. This may change once I add more flow and heat to the display and start regular water testing.
At this point I'm just waiting on the cycle to finish and for BRS to have my heaters in stock. I've decided to go with a 300w and 200w titanium heater with the new Ink Bird controller. Next up is getting the tank heated, display flow sorted, light mounts mounted, and sump skimming. I'm hoping to order this next week depending on BRS stock, they always seem to be out of stock on what I want.
