Cade Reef 1500 S2

fc2989

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Ok, how did you know I was looking for a solution for a sock silencer? Can you explain what you did here?
When water falling to the clean filter socks, it making noise. You can get the plastic mesh canvas sheet from Joann(Joann item#16057192) or other craft store, cut it to the size, put on top of the filter socks. If the water blow away the mesh, put a small piece of rock to hold it in place. This DIY sock silencer works very well. The plastic mesh also can be used for DIY algae scrubber.
 
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IrishWulf

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Honestly the only thing I could see the Waterbox having a leg up is mounting the lights off the back of the tank. I'll let you know how that goes.

Hi! I bought this exact same tank from Algae Barn as well! About a month or so until delivery. So excited. I’ve been following along with your build and taking notes, so thank you for all the updates. Your scape and setup is coming along great!!!!

Question for you. I have already bought 2 kessil 360x and was planning on using the A arm mounts. Do I understand your post above to mean I won’t be able to use the A arm off the back of the tank?
 
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midgaar

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Hi! I bought this exact same tank from Algae Barn as well! About a month or so until delivery. So excited. I’ve been following along with your build and taking notes, so thank you for all the updates. Your scape and setup is coming along great!!!!

Question for you. I have already bought 2 kessil 360x and was planning on using the A arm mounts. Do I understand your post above to mean I won’t be able to use the A arm off the back of the tank?

Congratulations on the tank!! I know you'll love it. Thanks for following my build, can't wait to see yours.

I'm not sure what you mean by "A" arm. You should be able to mount lights off the back of the tank, the issue comes up with the aluminum ATO cover that sits along the back of the tank. You will either have to remove the cover, modify the cover, or let the cover sit against the light mounts. I plan on ordering the light mounts at the end of this month or beginning of next month so you'll be able to see how I deal with this. I don't think it'll be a problem just preference. I'm thinking I'm going to dremmel out notches in the cover where my lights will sit but I'll grab pictures of the unmodified options for everyone following along.
 
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midgaar

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I have a few things coming that I'm waiting on and then we'll get a proper update. Tank issues have come to a resolution, cycle is mid swing, sump/fug is coming together and have I have spent my budget for the month. First week in November is going to be a good one, should get light mounts, heaters, flow pumps, and skimmer ordered.
 
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midgaar

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I am a little behind he but that is a beautiful tank setup. I Will try to keep up
Thanks! Glad to have you along.


Looking good! Very much considering getting one of these myself. Any ideas on what fish you’ll be stocking with?
Thanks! It is a great tank. I have really decided on that. There will be a pair of clowns, a goby, a 3 spot damselfish, and a green mandarin coming over from my current tank. I'll definitely be adding a few tangs. Other than that I'm not sure.
 

BillReef71

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Was the leak on the piping or the tank? Could you give me a few more details? Another question to do a water change would you need to manually turn the valve off on the ATO? Are the doors fragile? I watched youtube review and the guy bumped his door and it shattered, but then again he tried to move the tank without secure doors.
 
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midgaar

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Was the leak on the piping or the tank? Could you give me a few more details? Another question to do a water change would you need to manually turn the valve off on the ATO? Are the doors fragile? I watched youtube review and the guy bumped his door and it shattered, but then again he tried to move the tank without secure doors.

The leak was in the tank, there's a piece of glass that divides the ATO reservoir and the tank's return/overflow. The silicone securing that pane of glass in place had a very small leak in it. I was able to patch it with a finger tip of silicone no problem. I'll include pictures of that section in my update. If you were to do a water change out of the sump then yes, you would need to turn the return pump off and you may need to close the valve for the ATO. The doors are similar to the doors on a stereo cabinet or entertainment center. If you smash something into one it would probably shatter or crack. My wife and I moved the stand into the house by ourselves and managed to not damage anything. I'm not sure what else I can say about them.
 
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midgaar

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Update 10/26/20:

So I've been in contact with AlgaeBarn about the two issues I had with my tank. The small leak and the mark on the bottom of the tank. I'm happy to say that AB stepped up and supported me in getting these issues resolved. Unfortunately I feel like CADE dropped the ball a little bit. Because I didn't take any photos or video of the leak before I fixed it they wouldn't do anything about it. As for the mark on the bottom of the tank, they assured me that because of their QC methods it couldn't have happened on their end. Like I said, AB stepped up and modified their shipping and handling methods in attempts that this doesn't happen to anyone else. The running theory is that one of the handle inserts on the shipping crate fell under the tank during shipping, causing the mark on the bottom of the tank. AB has compensated me beyond my expectations and I will not hesitate to do business with them again. Their customer service was on point, responding to most of my e-mails in real time or next business day.

I've been working on the sump area of the build the last couple weeks. I received a shipment with a fuge light, cheato, and copepds. The light mount and coralline algae seed should be here in the next couple days. I also printed some filter sock silencers and a copepod hotel on the 3d printer and they work like a charm.
IMG_0403.JPEG

IMG_0404.JPEG


Here's where I'm running into some trouble. I'm not sure which section to make the refugium.

Option 1: I can use the intended section for the refugium, pictured above. I would then put the skimmer in the large/main section just on the other side of the black divider and use the media baskets in the third section just before the return pump. This gives the refugium medium flow (cheto doesn't move). Gives me media baskets for carbon/chemi-pure. Has the smallest space for cheto growth.

Option 2: I can make the large section the refugium and place the skimmer in the third section and not use the media baskets at all. This seems to give the refugium the lowest amount of flow (cheto doesn't move). Huge area for cheto growth. Some cheto makes it's way into the third section.

Option 3: I can make the third section the refugium and place the skimmer in the main section like in option 1. High flow and the cheto rolls around. Some cheto makes it into the display from this option.

IMG_0408.JPEG

IMG_0406.JPEG

IMG_0407.JPEG


There have been some questions about the back of the tank, light mounting, and what's going on back there so here are some pictures of that section.

This is the overflow and drain.
IMG_0411.JPEG


This is where the ATO reservoir and the overflow meet. The pane of glass my thumb is resting on is what had the leak, at the bottom of this pane. You would also mount the light on the back pane of glass, where my finger is resting. No problems there but as you will see in the next photo, replacing the cover becomes tricky.
IMG_0412.JPEG


You would need to rest the lid on top of the light mounts or cut notches out of the cover if you wanted to continue using the cover. If resting the lid on the mounts it would no longer sit flush and instead sit at a 45 degree angle. Cutting the cover comes with it's own issues.
IMG_0413.JPEG


So I've had the tank full for between 1 and 2 weeks. The evaporation is pretty minimal. The ATO reservoir has dropped an inch or two. At this rate I would estimate well over a month or two of water in the reservoir. This may change once I add more flow and heat to the display and start regular water testing.
IMG_0410.JPEG


At this point I'm just waiting on the cycle to finish and for BRS to have my heaters in stock. I've decided to go with a 300w and 200w titanium heater with the new Ink Bird controller. Next up is getting the tank heated, display flow sorted, light mounts mounted, and sump skimming. I'm hoping to order this next week depending on BRS stock, they always seem to be out of stock on what I want.

IMG_0405.JPEG IMG_0409.JPEG
 

lafarrow

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You and I are going down the same path. I’m going with the Cade 1800 (from AB) and have been wondering about some of the issues you have faced. BTW - absolutely love the ‘scape. I’m likely gonna try the same look. Following your build.
 

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midgaar

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You and I are going down the same path. I’m going with the Cade 1800 (from AB) and have been wondering about some of the issues you have faced. BTW - absolutely love the ‘scape. I’m likely gonna try the same look. Following your build.
Thanks! If I had to do it over, and I almost did, I would do more negative space and use CA glue. I only used the mortar and it took over a week. I do like the way it turned out and I don't think it would be worth the effort in redoing it for just a few more "holes".

that wiring duct looks a little shallow. would this one fit?
They are shallow and I already have the ones you linked in my amazon basket. I just don't like the grey color and would really like black to blend in. I was able to find black ones for computer server racks, I may just have to go that route. I have a couple other ideas too. You'll just have to wait and see.
 

BillReef71

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The leak was in the tank, there's a piece of glass that divides the ATO reservoir and the tank's return/overflow. The silicone securing that pane of glass in place had a very small leak in it. I was able to patch it with a finger tip of silicone no problem. I'll include pictures of that section in my update. If you were to do a water change out of the sump, yes, you would need to turn the return pump off and you may need to close the valve for the ATO. The doors are similar to the doors on a stereo cabinet or entertainment center. If you smash something into one it would probably shatter or crack. My wife and I moved the stand into the house by ourselves and managed to not damage anything. I'm not sure what else I can say about them.
Algae Barn info on the web page is supposed to inspect each tank. However issues do happen. I am glad to know they stepped up and made the customer(you) happy. That is what really counts in the end. This is good to info, on my decision on a tank. Great explanation on the doors, you addressed a concern. Thanks again for this great review on a new tank!
 
The Best reef aquarium LED lighting

tylr9m482

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Curious on the return line/ATO reservoir. Do those metal clamps for the soft hose get submerged in the ATO water? If they do I'd be curious as to what type of metal they are and if they will stand up to /leech into the water over time.

Also curious on how you decide to attack the refugium in the sump and which option you choose. I think I'd stick to option 1 or 3. Just depends on how much cheato you plan on keeping and how much is actually making its way into the display. I'd imagine if you go option 3 and you have a few tangs in the tank, they will eat anything that makes it's way into the display before you even see it! I'd also think about moving the media baskets from their intended spot and seeing if they fit in the intended refugium spot. Basically just swap the two sections and allow you to go with option #3.
 

AlgaeBarn

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Update 10/26/20:

So I've been in contact with AlgaeBarn about the two issues I had with my tank. The small leak and the mark on the bottom of the tank. I'm happy to say that AB stepped up and supported me in getting these issues resolved. Unfortunately I feel like CADE dropped the ball a little bit. Because I didn't take any photos or video of the leak before I fixed it they wouldn't do anything about it. As for the mark on the bottom of the tank, they assured me that because of their QC methods it couldn't have happened on their end. Like I said, AB stepped up and modified their shipping and handling methods in attempts that this doesn't happen to anyone else. The running theory is that one of the handle inserts on the shipping crate fell under the tank during shipping, causing the mark on the bottom of the tank. AB has compensated me beyond my expectations and I will not hesitate to do business with them again. Their customer service was on point, responding to most of my e-mails in real time or next business day.

I've been working on the sump area of the build the last couple weeks. I received a shipment with a fuge light, cheato, and copepds. The light mount and coralline algae seed should be here in the next couple days. I also printed some filter sock silencers and a copepod hotel on the 3d printer and they work like a charm.
IMG_0403.JPEG

IMG_0404.JPEG


Here's where I'm running into some trouble. I'm not sure which section to make the refugium.

Option 1: I can use the intended section for the refugium, pictured above. I would then put the skimmer in the large/main section just on the other side of the black divider and use the media baskets in the third section just before the return pump. This gives the refugium medium flow (cheto doesn't move). Gives me media baskets for carbon/chemi-pure. Has the smallest space for cheto growth.

Option 2: I can make the large section the refugium and place the skimmer in the third section and not use the media baskets at all. This seems to give the refugium the lowest amount of flow (cheto doesn't move). Huge area for cheto growth. Some cheto makes it's way into the third section.

Option 3: I can make the third section the refugium and place the skimmer in the main section like in option 1. High flow and the cheto rolls around. Some cheto makes it into the display from this option.

IMG_0408.JPEG

IMG_0406.JPEG

IMG_0407.JPEG


There have been some questions about the back of the tank, light mounting, and what's going on back there so here are some pictures of that section.

This is the overflow and drain.
IMG_0411.JPEG


This is where the ATO reservoir and the overflow meet. The pane of glass my thumb is resting on is what had the leak, at the bottom of this pane. You would also mount the light on the back pane of glass, where my finger is resting. No problems there but as you will see in the next photo, replacing the cover becomes tricky.
IMG_0412.JPEG


You would need to rest the lid on top of the light mounts or cut notches out of the cover if you wanted to continue using the cover. If resting the lid on the mounts it would no longer sit flush and instead sit at a 45 degree angle. Cutting the cover comes with it's own issues.
IMG_0413.JPEG


So I've had the tank full for between 1 and 2 weeks. The evaporation is pretty minimal. The ATO reservoir has dropped an inch or two. At this rate I would estimate well over a month or two of water in the reservoir. This may change once I add more flow and heat to the display and start regular water testing.
IMG_0410.JPEG


At this point I'm just waiting on the cycle to finish and for BRS to have my heaters in stock. I've decided to go with a 300w and 200w titanium heater with the new Ink Bird controller. Next up is getting the tank heated, display flow sorted, light mounts mounted, and sump skimming. I'm hoping to order this next week depending on BRS stock, they always seem to be out of stock on what I want.

IMG_0405.JPEG IMG_0409.JPEG
Off subject but those duke sausages are so good! Lol Glad everything is coming together and looking good! ~Shaun K.
 
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midgaar

midgaar

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Curious on the return line/ATO reservoir. Do those metal clamps for the soft hose get submerged in the ATO water? If they do I'd be curious as to what type of metal they are and if they will stand up to /leech into the water over time.

Also curious on how you decide to attack the refugium in the sump and which option you choose. I think I'd stick to option 1 or 3. Just depends on how much cheato you plan on keeping and how much is actually making its way into the display. I'd imagine if you go option 3 and you have a few tangs in the tank, they will eat anything that makes it's way into the display before you even see it! I'd also think about moving the media baskets from their intended spot and seeing if they fit in the intended refugium spot. Basically just swap the two sections and allow you to go with option #3.

The media baskets will only work properly in the section they are intended for. This is the only section where water enters from the top and exits through the bottom, other than the filter socks. I'm leaning towards option 1 at the moment and can always move it to option 3 if more cheato is needed to increase export. I dunno, refugium is new to me.

The clamps are metal but I figured they would be safe due to it being fresh water. I was thinking about replacing them with the plastic ones...
 

tylr9m482

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The media baskets will only work properly in the section they are intended for. This is the only section where water enters from the top and exits through the bottom, other than the filter socks. I'm leaning towards option 1 at the moment and can always move it to option 3 if more cheato is needed to increase export. I dunno, refugium is new to me.

The clamps are metal but I figured they would be safe due to it being fresh water. I was thinking about replacing them with the plastic ones...

Gotcha, that makes sense as far as the media baskets, didn't think it through but with that in mind I'd prob just stick to option #1. I also remember seeing someone once said they took all the media baskets out, placed their skimmer in that section, and removed the refugium baffle in the large section of the sump for a giant refugium. Not sure how doable this is with your set up, just something else as an option.

As for those metal clamps, I guess they wouldn't have included them that way if it didn't work but it seems slightly suspect to me, metal rusts when wet and exposed to air over time, assuming the water line will drop enough to expose them in between filling the ATO reservoir, I'd be considering plastic clamps if you know where to find them.
 
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midgaar

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So today I made a big order!
2x MP40
2x Radion XR15 (3rd is on current tank)
2x Radion Mounts
1x Maxspect Skimmer
1x 300w Titainium Heater (200w on current tank will transfer)
1x InkBird Hester controller

Exciting stuff. This should cover all of the basics and get fish in the tank by the end of the month.
 

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