Calcium reactor

[dank reefer]

So I am going to join the CaRx camp pretty soon, and wanted to pose a question to you folks that already have once.

I am looking at the Geo612x2, FX-STP Peristaltic Dosing Pump, MC122 PH Controller (as I don't trust my Neptunes PH controller). Where I am hesitant is the Regulator and need help here.

I am looking at the Milwaukee CO2 Regulator w/ Solenoid and wanted to know if anyone has had experience with it before? I know that the CarbonDoser is the cats meow, but is for almost $250 more?

Edited: I also have the option to go with a used Reef Octopus CR3000, and save about $250 going this route, and wanted to know also if there is any downside going RO, than Geo?

 

[biecacka]

Don’t know much about the RO but I LOVE my GEO reactor. not to mention you can buy a custom built regulator from Alan or another person who builds them. They are dual stage and every bit as good as the carbon doses I hear.
just more options to make it more confusing Haha

corey

 

[lapin]

So I am going to join the CaRx camp pretty soon, and wanted to pose a question to you folks that already have once.
I am looking at the Geo612x2, FX-STP Peristaltic Dosing Pump, MC122 PH Controller (as I don't trust my Neptunes PH controller). Where I am hesitant is the Regulator and need help here.
I am looking at the Milwaukee CO2 Regulator w/ Solenoid and wanted to know if anyone has had experience with it before? I know that the CarbonDoser is the cats meow, but is for almost $250 more?
Edited: I also have the option to go with a used Reef Octopus CR3000, and save about $250 going this route, and wanted to know also if there is any downside going RO, than Geo?

I have an older big Geo and like it.
I have a glass bubble counter that is much smaller than the one that came on the unit.
Gas still goes thru the Geo bubble counter but I dont count those bubbles for my rate.
I use Smith Dual Gauges.
A Milwaukee CO2 Regulator w/ Solenoid
I do not use the solenoid to turn the gas on and off to keep Ph constant.
It only shuts off if the Ph drops dangerously low.
I have a very fast drip (almost a stream) and use a bubble rate that keep my Ph 6.6
The reactor is fed thru my manifold

 

[dank reefer]

I have an older big Geo and like it.
I have a glass bubble counter that is much smaller than the one that came on the unit.
Gas still goes thru the Geo bubble counter but I dont count those bubbles for my rate.
I use Smith Dual Gauges.
A Milwaukee CO2 Regulator w/ Solenoid
I do not use the solenoid to turn the gas on and off to keep Ph constant.
It only shuts off if the Ph drops dangerously low.
I have a very fast drip (almost a stream) and use a bubble rate that keep my Ph 6.6
The reactor is fed thru my manifold

You know, sometimes you overthink to much, and I know I just did.

I have an available manifold that's currently not in use, and can use it to feed the reactor. and then just control the effluent with a needle valve to adjust drip rate. That right there saves me $290 by not needing the Kamoer.

Do you know what your DKH is from your effluent going into your tank?

 

[lapin]

Do you know what your DKH is from your effluent going into your tank?

It runs about 25 to 30. I have mainly LPS.

 

[dank reefer]

It runs about 25 to 30. I have mainly LPS.

Excellent.

Thanks Lapin

 

[SeaDweller]

One of the best pieces of advice I got regarding a CaRx was to ditch the controller. I run my Geo 618 on a carbon doser 24/7; no ph set point this and that. Just test the alk of the tank and the effluent. My alk doesn't fluctuate much unless the media is getting low. Best thing I've ever done for the CaRx.

Regarding the reactor, aquamaxx or RO are well built stuff. I like the Geo's so far, and honestly, it's just a reactor. Save money by buying a decent reactor and get the best regulator that you can dial in and tune that you can afford.

 

[dank reefer]

One of the best pieces of advice I got regarding a CaRx was to ditch the controller. I run my Geo 618 on a carbon doser 24/7; no ph set point this and that. Just test the alk of the tank and the effluent. My alk doesn't fluctuate much unless the media is getting low. Best thing I've ever done for the CaRx.

Regarding the reactor, aquamaxx or RO are well built stuff. I like the Geo's so far, and honestly, it's just a reactor. Save money by buying a decent reactor and get the best regulator that you can dial in and tune that you can afford.

I have been having discussions with a fellow R2R reefer that I respect say the same thing. To make sure that the effluent is 25-30 DKH, and count how many bubbles you are at, and adjust from there. The other advise he gave me was NOT to use a manifold to feed the reactor as I will constantly have to adjust. So instead of spending 280 on a Kamoer, I just might spend 30 on a Maxijet.

 

[SeaDweller]

I have been having discussions with a fellow R2R reefer that I respect say the same thing. To make sure that the effluent is 25-30 DKH, and count how many bubbles you are at, and adjust from there. The other advise he game me was NOT to use a manifold to feed the reactor as I will constantly have to adjust. So instead of spending 280 on a Kamoer, I just might spend 30 on a Maxijet.

Yup, I keep my alk between 7.3-7.6 so my effluent is like 20 dkh I think, but I adjust based on the current bubbles/min. My effluent right now is 125-130 ml and my bpm is about 85, so it keeps my alk right where I want it.

I use a small little Sicce pump to feed the reactor. I get why people use a peristaltic pump, but I haven't noticed a need to.

 

[biecacka]

I have been contemplating pulling my probe from my reactor as well. Just seems like there is a better way to do it and such. I don’t know the real pros or cons of either way. but with no controller I think your reactor would stay “on” more often which would hold things more steady I’d guess.


corey

 

[kles]

They’ll have 5 pound tanks? I know I could go to any place that fills paint ball tanks right?

They’ll have 5 pound tanks? I know I could go to any place that fills paint ball tanks right?

Your better off filling at a home brew store they use food grade co2 it's only a little more but peice of mind knowing your using a good quality gas . No need in pinching pennies trying to save 3or 4 dollars on something you cant tell is really safe quality.

 

[X-37B]

Please keep us informed on how you do with the Tunze system. Especially, how the AGA regulator you have works out. I really considered that reg. About the cleanest sexiest regulator I've seen.. Yes I said Sexy. If that reg doesn't do anything to you, you must be dead.

Well just got it going this morning.
The 3171 is so simple to run.
Using tunze media.
30ml a minute to start and has held for 24hrs.
The AGA is set at 10 psi.
1/2 turn of the needle valve gets me 20bpm.
This is where I will start.
I can easily get down to 7bpm with this needle valve.
May start a thread on the 3171 since not many out there.
Running no controller. Just adjusting alk output to 20-25.

 

[Anthony35]

A well dialed reactor really do not need a probe and its simple to dial in, the smallest modification has big results. I have been using one for over 7+years and its always been great and very easy, co2 here in TN only cost my 15.00 every 7-8 months big saving in the long run and as stated they just simply swap out the canister when it goes empty. We have a couple places here that would just fill it for you while you wait or just swap out.

The thing one that people fail to mention: there is a service date on your canister and no place that follows the rules/law would fill it if it's past the expiration date. The good news is most places always give you a updated canister if you swap and some places you do not need to own it they will give you one no charge just check your local provider.

The probe just serves as a fail safe as the pressure gets low it get a bit unstable (pushed co2 faster) the probe keep it from going crazy by cutting it off as the ph drops faster.

The best setting is to set to to where the solenoid does not cut off and on often; continuous slow for your desired alk is what you want it puts less work on the solenoid thus last far longer.

 

[jda]

Try and find a used setup.

You do NOT need a pH probe or controller - you can just set the thing by hand it will be MORE reliable and have higher tank pH since you won't waste any co2. You can save money there.

I have used dual stage Victors, Aquarium Plants Carbon Doser (regulator is junk, but the box is cool), and a few other high end regulators, and although I still have/use them, I would just buy a Tunze regulator next time... NOT A SINGLE ONE of these is any more reliable than the other and they all have worked for a long time with no issue.

Remember a good check valve or saltwater will get into your expensive regulator and ruin it.

Craigslist is a good place to get co2 tanks locally.

Dolomite and calcite are fine media, but they take a lower pH to melt - dolomite has more magnesium in it than the others. Aragonite is easier to melt. Use Aragonite if you can.