Can’t keep corals alive!

Jay1661

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 4, 2017
Messages
73
Reaction score
51
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Over the course of the last year my tank has been up and running I cannot keep many corals. I have. 29g biocube that has been running for about 14 months. I’ve attempted to keep maybe 10 corals/frags over the last year. The only corals in my tank at the moment is my very first frag I ever had a hammer coral, and a frogspawn I got about 6 months ago and 2 GSP frags, one is dying the other is not. Everything else has slowly died over time. Xenia and zoas begin to melt away the moment they are placed in the tank. GSP will thrive for a month or two and then slowly open less and less everyday until they die. I’ve killed multiple torches and another lovely frogspawn. Corals thrive, then die. It’s extremely frustrating.

Every time a coral dies I test my water parameters, and every time they are fine.
My goal is to be able to keep LPS and softies, mostly euphyillias.

Salinity: 1.024
Temp: 75
Calcium: 400 (Lots of coraline growth)
Magnesium: 1300
pH: 8.1
Nitrites: Undetectable
Nitrates: 1ppm
Ammonia: 0

I also take water samples to multiple LFSs and they all say my water quality is fine.
I do a 15%-20% water change once a week every week for the last year. I mix my own saltwater for at least 12 hours. I only use RO/DI. I use instant ocean reef crystals.

If it’s not my water quality is it my equipment? The first 6 months I had the stock hood on and it was getting to be an issue with heat in the summer so I took it off and replaced the lights with a Kessil A80 tuna blue that runs for 9 hours a day. I had issues with corals dying before and after this. Sits about 4-5 inches from the top of the water. Corals directly under this light (GSP covering the highest rock a few inches below the waters surface) was growing very well until recently) a different GSP frag on the bottom of the tank is doing well for now.

Also I’m wondering if flow is an issue. I’m running the stock pump which states it is 265 GPH. I have a very small powerhead that does maybe around 265 or less so looking at a total of 530 GPH in my tank. My rock work is a tall island in the middle of the tank so that flow can move all around it. Corals are not visibly moving a ton though. When I do have corals alive, the tentacles are gently and slowly waving back and forth.

Filtration, I have a tower that trickles down into filter floss and then through my ceramic filter media. As of yesterday I started running chemipure elite as passive filtration.

Bioload, in my tank I only have 2 ocellaris clowns that are about a year old. And my clean up crew, Nasarius snails, Mexican and tropical turbo snails. Serpent and brittle starfish. And a handful of red hermits. I feed the tank less than 1/4 of a frozen shrimp cube a day.

I have a second tank, a 10 gallon, same light same maintenance schedule, same water, temp. It is a hammer garden. And they are thriving! Minus the acans.
 

ndrwater

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
May 7, 2015
Messages
4,257
Reaction score
7,859
Location
Anaheim, CA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
There are lots of contributors. Lighting, flow, Nitrate to Phosphate ratios, animals/pests picking on the corals, etc.
I would start by getting your own test kits and know where you actually stand. Nitrate at 1ppm isn't going to hurt anything. Alkalinity on the other hand.. to much, or to little light is also an issue. SPS love flow as well. Part of the reason a "mixed" reef is so difficult is that SPS and LPS have very different requirements
 

VSVP bet

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 29, 2016
Messages
967
Reaction score
1,453
Location
Antarctica
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Maybe cut down on water changes too, 15%-20% a week is a lot for LPS and softies. Ill keep reading your post and edit in anything else that comes to mind. Thats my first impression.
 
OP
OP
Jay1661

Jay1661

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 4, 2017
Messages
73
Reaction score
51
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Do you know what your ALK/KH is at?

Also would be great for us to see a tank full tank shot if you have one.
I will take that reading today after work, I ran out of tests. This is the most recent full tank picture I have. I will take another one after work as well. This is from June/July. The wall hammer has since died ;(

3FF947FA-61E7-475C-9F1D-CA856A839A8F.jpeg
A77DF8C8-BC6C-4974-B9FA-C697EB0E8C78.jpeg
 
OP
OP
Jay1661

Jay1661

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 4, 2017
Messages
73
Reaction score
51
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I'd get the temperature up to 78-79 myself. Then I would send off a Triton water test.

Yeah normally my tank is 78 but 75 is what it was when I looked at it last night. I had a heater malfunction last week. When I got home my tank was 68. I put in a spare heater that is adjustable so I’ve been slowly adjusting it back up to 78 the last few days.
 

S-t-r-e-t-c-h

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 28, 2017
Messages
790
Reaction score
1,825
Location
Gainesville, FL
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
IMO, 1ppm nitrates is pretty low for long term success with softies and LPS. What's your coral feeding regimen?

Something to consider too is measure your ph right before the tank lights go off and right before they come back on. A small tank without a refugium might be seeing significant swings in a 24 hour period. If it's getting into the mid or low 7's at night, that could be an issue.

Agree that sending some water off for triton testing would be helpful too...
 

cancun

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 8, 2013
Messages
1,821
Reaction score
2,918
Location
Southern Illinois
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Yeah normally my tank is 78 but 75 is what it was when I looked at it last night. I had a heater malfunction last week. When I got home my tank was 68. I put in a spare heater that is adjustable so I’ve been slowly adjusting it back up to 78 the last few days.
Hi there! Everyone has given great advice. I totally understand, when I started in the hobby yrs ago I had the same issue. I gave up on mixed reef because of the reasons already stated. I have a bigger tank but keep LPS and a few softies. I use Red Sea Coral Pro to make my salt and do a 10% wc once a week. I also grow my own Phytoplankton and add some every night. My tank is full so I haven't added coral or fish in a while.....I do Target feed Acans once a week.....your tank looks really nice though! Keep at it, and for sure get a new test kit....I like Red Sea or Salifert personally. I am embarrassed to say it took me a few years to not just keep corals, but for them to thrive and grow. Here is a pic I took a few days ago....the newest coral is the brownish torch and he is six months old. Keep at it!!! [emoji16]
c7dc39614ebad233b8f67a56ebb85065.jpg
 

KrisReef

Last to get paid.
View Badges
Joined
May 15, 2018
Messages
22,084
Reaction score
39,133
Location
Vatican & Las Vegas Penthouse Quarters
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
+1 Triton test. Curios if you have metal issues perhaps, but Triton will tease that out.

Your R/O water, not RODI? Do you make your own? Have you tested it?

Not to bug you, just trying to help move your system forward to where we want it! :)
 

cancun

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 8, 2013
Messages
1,821
Reaction score
2,918
Location
Southern Illinois
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
RODI is a great thought....I keep a TDS meter attached to the unit....and second hand held one and use both to check my RODI water on a routine basis. I learned that the hard way when he got my first RODI unit and I let it go too long before changing out the resin, got s algae bloom, checked a it was high. Lesson learned!
 

ZaneTer

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 14, 2018
Messages
928
Reaction score
883
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
@Jay1661
There is definitely something wrong. I’m not seeing coralline in the tank pics. I’m also not seeing any algae.

I’m one of those that believes algae is a healthy sign in a tank.

Is it possible you are running your tank too sterile? Perhaps heavy metal contamination? Get yourself an ICP to rule that out and please don’t be shy to post the numbers up here.

Hopefully together we can all get it figured out.
 

TOP 10 Trending Threads

WHAT AMOUNT OF LIVE ROCK AND SAND SHOULD BE PRIORITIZED FOR OPTIMAL BIODIVERSITY/FILTRATION?

  • 100% live rock + bagged sand

    Votes: 38 27.1%
  • 100% dry rock + 100% live sand

    Votes: 47 33.6%
  • 50/50 live/dry rock, 50/50 live/bagged sand

    Votes: 31 22.1%
  • 75% live rock, 25% live sand

    Votes: 14 10.0%
  • 25% live rock, 75% live sand

    Votes: 10 7.1%
Back
Top