Caravan's Waterbox 135.4 in Austin

Discussion in 'Member Tanks' started by Caravanshaka, Dec 7, 2017.

  1. Caravanshaka

    Caravanshaka Member Build Thread Contributor

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    I'm using an aquariclip orange gel filter lens over an iphoneX for the pics.
     
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  2. LadyMac

    LadyMac Active Member Build Thread Contributor

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    Love the colors on all the coral! Following along on your build :)
     
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  3. Elizaveta

    Elizaveta New Member

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    Help for a newbie. I just had a Waterbox Plat. 135 installed last week. I'll be moving rock etc. from a 65gl and moving over some larger corals from an overgrown nano. My question...I've never had a sump before. It's a little intimidating and VERY LOUD!! This tank is in my workspace and it's driving me bonkers. It sounds like a shower running CONSTANTLY...I'd read that they're mostly quiet so I dont' think this is going well. I'm running a Sicce Syncra 5 for return pump..can definitely hear vibration from that, but majority of the noise is the drain/overflow. Please, if anyone can tell me how to adjust this. Also, any recommendations for a top/lid would be appreciated. THANK YOU!!!
     
  4. Caravanshaka

    Caravanshaka Member Build Thread Contributor

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    I’ll repeat what I posted in the waterbox thread for others that may see this and not that other thread:

    To be honest, the noise at the start drove me nuts too. The issue is the water cascading into the socks. The goal is to somehow get the water to trickle down something into the socks, whether that be by slowing the flow or adding something that wicks the water down that would normally have flowed into the middle of the sock.

    There are several things you can do. I will outline 2 options that I would try:

    1 - Filter Floss - This is what I do. Cut some filter floss to a bit bigger than the sock opening, and shove it into the sock so that the water going into the sock hits the floss and trickles down it. Makes it MUCH quieter, but adds more maintenance as the floss gets clogged in a couple days. I tend to change my floss every 2 days and socks every 4 days.

    2 - Recently I found that GEO sumps manufactures a “sock silencer” out of acrylic. This appears to channel the water into smaller drips into the socks rather than a waterfall. I don’t have experience with them yet, but they intrigued me when I saw them.
    http://www.geosreef.com/product/felt-filter-sock-with-geo-silencer/

    I hope that helps!
     
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  5. Caravanshaka

    Caravanshaka Member Build Thread Contributor

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    Also, on the drains...you want to close the ball valve on the main drain until it matches the flow rate of the return pump. What I usually do is slowly close it until the overflow box starts to fill up to the emergency drain, then attempt to open it back up with the tiniest movements of the valve you can manage. The goal is for the water level to stay constant near the top of the emergency drain pipe, but only trickling into it at most. The less water you get into the emergency drain the quieter will be. The perfect spot is when the water level sits 1/4” under the top of that pipe and no water goes into it.

    For a Lid. I have and Octoreef acrylic/mesh lid that is custom made for my tank. I did take it off a couple months ago though, and haven’t had any fish jump, so I may sell my lid at this point since I like the open top look.
     
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  6. Caravanshaka

    Caravanshaka Member Build Thread Contributor

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    So I've been having a ton of issues with one of my Halides. Jason and Luke at Premium Aquatics have been awesome in helping troubleshoot the problem and sending out some replacement parts, but thought I would post here to see if anyone has any thoughts on it.

    I have 2 of these setups:
    Lumenbright Mini Pendant
    Radium 250w bulb
    Hamilton M80 Ballast

    The left side of the tank has fired first time every time and given me zero issues since day 1. The right side, however, gave me trouble the first week. Some days it wouldn't fire, some days it had no trouble. I had to remove the socket from the pendant and adjust the bulb sometimes to get it to fire, then reattach it to the pendant for the day. I had gotten some weird colored socket brackets from Lumenbright anyway, so I got a whole new socket and bracket to see if that would fix it. I think it seemed fine for a couple days then went back to giving me trouble. In the meantime, I swapped the ballasts to see if it was a ballast issue and the problem stayed on the right side. I then got a replacement Radium Bulb sent out from Premium Aquatics. Fire first try, and has been working great for 3 weeks or so.

    I was on vacation this past weekend, and looked through my logs and noticed that on Feb 11th, only one of my halides was running for the first 1.5 hours of my photo period. 330w versus the normal 660w (thanks apex!). In addition to that, today the bulb didn't fire and I had to do the same thing I did before by removing the socket from the pendant, which allowed it to fire immediately.

    At this point, I have a new socket, new bulb, and have swapped ballasts to ensure there are no issues there. The ONLY remaining item from the original issues is the Pendant. Could it be a grounding issue on the pendant? I think my next step might be to remove the socket and bulb from each pendant and completely switch them. If the problem stays on the right then I think it is 100% the Pendant.

    All this being said, I love the look of the Halides, but am getting pretty frustrated here. Should I go back to my old favorite of mounting some nanobox reef pucks in an ATI fixture for my LED/t6 Hybrid? It is winter and I'm getting a 2 degree jump in temps with the Halides on for 5 hrs right now, so I'm a bit concerned that it will get worse in the Texas heat.
     
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