CCB qt. tank

[JMM744]

Wondered if a 10 gal. would be ok for the qt. period for a CCB. It is around 4 inches. It is eating mysis some but they seem a bit big to get in its mouth. It also is pecking at a clam today. Will have black worms this week for it. I would like to separate it from a yellow tang and bully clown fish that are in acclimation containers now in my 40 breeder qt. Thanks for any advice.
Jim

 

[Humblefish]

A 10 gal is a little tight for a 4" CBB (I would prefer a 20L); but you might be able to get away with it if you keep a very close eye on the ammonia. I once QT'd a 6" Foxface in just a 10 gal for 6 weeks.

 

[JMM744]

I know it's a bit small but I can change water often to keep it down. I would dose the water in a bucket with copper before changing it out. Otherwise I may just go get a bigger tank but don't need one for other then this instance.
Thanks for your reply.
Jim

 

[Areseebee]

I mean, your biofiltration doesn't really depend on the volume of water. It simply gives you a bit of a bigger buffer, if your QT isn't processing ammonia fast enough you'll have to do tons of water changes either way. I think the choice of size of a QT is primarily just for comfort and to reduce stress.

 

[Humblefish]

I mean, your biofiltration doesn't really depend on the volume of water. It simply gives you a bit of a bigger buffer, if your QT isn't processing ammonia fast enough you'll have to do tons of water changes either way. I think the choice of size of a QT is primarily just for comfort and to reduce stress.

Bigger QT = Larger bio-filter

An Aquaclear 70 has a much larger sponge (for harboring nitrifying bacteria) than the 50 model, but it would be very difficult to use the AC70 on a 10 gal QT because of the flow output.

 

[Areseebee]

Sure, I more meant "all things being equal", but if you have a larger tank you can put on more room for bio filter surfaces which is the thing that actually matters for determining water stability.

Funny enough, I actually do have a fluval 70 on my 10g QT! On the lowest setting it seems ok. I can't promise the motor is running 100%, maybe that helps. It is jammed with as much sponge as it will hold in every compartment. If I needed more I think I'd be fine just putting it in a filter bag stuffed in a corner or something.

I mostly just wanted to point out that the real thing that's going to determine your success/failure in keeping water clean doesn't depend on tank size (except in the indirect way you pointed out and by providing twice the "buffer" in terms of raw volume). I think sometimes it's easy to get thinking a 20g quarantine is bigger than (for instance) a 10 and can therefore handle the waste of a bigger fish.

 

[Jofiel]

The CBB I recently brought home was around the same size. He was super cramped in the 10 gallon I initially put him in and definitely was less stressed as soon as I moved him to the 20 gallon.

He does still pace a bit but I feel like the 20 gallon is adequate and easy to keep clean.

 

[Humblefish]

Funny enough, I actually do have a fluval 70 on my 10g QT! On the lowest setting it seems ok. I can't promise the motor is running 100%, maybe that helps. It is jammed with as much sponge as it will hold in every compartment. If I needed more I think I'd be fine just putting it in a filter bag stuffed in a corner or something.

I experimented with this on a 10 gal QT. The fish didn't seem to like the flow from the AC70 (even dialed all the way down), so I tried swapping out the impeller from an AC50. The flow was kinda pathetic then. :confused:

 

[JMM744]

I experimented with this on a 10 gal QT. The fish didn't seem to like the flow from the AC70 (even dialed all the way down), so I tried swapping out the impeller from an AC50. The flow was kinda pathetic then. :confused:

What I Have done is cut a slit in a sponge and slide it up on the intake tube of the filter , which doesn't seem to reduce flow much, thus doubling the surface area for the bio filter. I also seed bacteria a few times while the copper is running along with water changes if needed. Along with that I use an air stone and a power head for flow and to keep the oxygen level up. I am going to look for a used 20 or 30. Until then I will put a fence up between the other fish with egg crate.

 

[melypr1985]

Until then I will put a fence up between the other fish with egg crate.

Be careful, these wrasses can often slip right through the eggcrate. You may need to put a mesh or gutterguard over the eggcrate to make the holes smaller.

 

[JMM744]

The wrasse is fine with the butterfly. It's ( CBB) always posturing for the wrasse to clean it which I have seen happen several times. Kinda neat to watch. Never seen the wrasse clean the other fish at all.

 

[JMM744]

Got the fish separated this morning. Used the egg crate. The wrasse swims right through . The CBB is eating brine shrimp and clam readily. It is scratching/ rubbing against the tiles in the tank which it did the first day but more frequently now. I have copper up to about 3.5 or 4 and hope to hit 5 tomorrow night. It keeps trying to get the wrasse to clean it's sides but the wrasse only occasionally pays it mind. I am wondering if maybe a fresh water dip might be in order? Otherwise maybe just get the copper up to strength and let it do its job? I enjoy the feed back and suggestions you all offer and really appreciate it. I think the egg crate will suffice for the duration of the CBB qt. time period. Beats a ten and avoids setting up another tank to care for.

 

[melypr1985]

I have copper up to about 3.5 or 4 and hope to hit 5 tomorrow night.

Do you mean .35 or .4?

Otherwise maybe just get the copper up to strength and let it do its job?

Do this ^^. Give it time to do it's job. It has to drop off the fish for it to be killed, and that can take 3-7 days for ick.

 

[JMM744]

The test kit just shows a 3 and 4, no period before them. Will just let things take their course then. Thank you young Lady.

 

[melypr1985]

The test kit just shows a 3 and 4, no period before them. Will just let things take their course then. Thank you young Lady.

What test kit are you using? And what copper?

 

[JMM744]

I think Seachem. Place water in tray, two drops of reagent and mix powder in and wait. It has a paper strip you use to match the blue shade to get the level of copper.

 

[melypr1985]

I think Seachem. Place water in tray, two drops of reagent and mix powder in and wait. It has a paper strip you use to match the blue shade to get the level of copper.

Ok. That's the right test kit for cupramine... are you using cupramine? I couldn't find it in the thread if it was already said.
The therapeutic level for cupramin is .35 to .5ppm.

 

[JMM744]

Cuprimine is correct. Had not mentioned that. So anything over .35 is enough? If so I am probably already there. Could go ahead and dose to .5 as well.
Thanks, Jim

 

[melypr1985]

Cuprimine is correct. Had not mentioned that. So anything over .35 is enough? If so I am probably already there. Could go ahead and dose to .5 as well.
Thanks, Jim

Yes indeed. I would go ahead and get it to .5 so that you have some wiggle room. If the copper level goes below .35 at all, the 30 day clock starts over.

 

[Humblefish]

Yes indeed. I would go ahead and get it to .5 so that you have some wiggle room. If the copper level goes below .35 at all, the 30 day clock starts over.

+1