Changing over a fresh water tank

[Freenow54]

This is important to me so hope some people have done it. I have an up, and running fresh water tank. It has been empty for a couple of years. Because it was fesh water there is no sump, nor is there room. As I have been running a 40 on a Fluval canister for over 20years I am intending to keep using my existing Fluval on this one. I also have marineland HOB filters . I am wondering if I should or could keep using it on salt? I intend to make this a minimalist tank with just a few rocks , and small fish . ( maybe 6 ) I want mostly coral the type yet to be determined. It is a long 65 gallon about 20 inches high, 4 feet long, and 12.5 iches deep ( front to back ). I already have two Aquanest lights, but may add some Orphek. So I have three questions. One the Marineland filters keep or not. The Lighting I know the Aquanest which are very similar to A1 Prime lights , have a very small footprint. Hence the Orphek idea. So any suggestions on that welcome. Keeping in mind I may go to Coral that require higher Par
Here is the main question. There is fresh Water in it now. I have read in the past to NOT add salt straight into a tank. I assume that is when it is inhabited. So am I wrong? could I just add salt? Or is another method better ?
Long winded but all help welcome Thanks. Wally

 

[Fish Fan]

I don't see why you can't add the salt directly to this tank at this point, given that there's no desirable livestock to harm. However, you may want to consider using RODI water for your new marine tank, if you're going to keep corals (I am assuming you're using tap water in your freshwater system currently). You could certainly start it with tap water, and then over time with water changes replace it with saltwater made from RODI (unless, of course, you have really great tap water).

Reef tanks can absolutely be run with HOB filters like the Marineland, as well as canister filters. You could look into something like a HOB protein skimmer or Refugium if/when you think you may need one.

The freshwater nitrifying bacteria in your filters now can't handle the salinity of saltwater, and will be of no real benefit, so I would expect a full cycle on this tank. I would also suggest loading your canister filter with mostly rock rubble, I personally think too much mechanical (sponges, floss, etc.) in a canister isn't a good idea, unless you're willing to clean your canister at least once a week. I'd use it mostly for flow and "extra" biofiltration, especially if you're going with a minimal aquascape in the display.

Are you planning on swapping out the substrate? I'd probably remove whatever freshwater sand or gravel you have, and replace it with a saltwater aragonite sand or similar product.

I am unfamiliar with your lighting choices, so I'll leave that up to others

I hope that helps and good luck!

 

[Freenow54]

Thank you for the input. I Have already removed the substrate 2 years ago since my cichlids died of Malawi bloat which is an intestinal infection from being fed fish food with fish byproducts in it. Thanks LFS . Interesting about the contents of the canister. I will follow your recommendation there. I was intending to do a complete fishless cycle as with my current tank. It has had Rodi water in it and topped of with it for two years as well. I hope others respond. I have noticed a lack of others interest lately bringing me to consider not visiting the site anymore. So your response is very welcome, and also hope you receive acalaids because you always are trying to help others. By the way I forgot about a skimmer, and would not be without one. WE talked about yours but I cannot remember without going back, the manufacturer, and if they make a HOB. Could you please refresh me?

 

[D'sreef]

You may want to check out my budget build, it may help with some ideas. It was a 40gallon breeder I got from Facebook marketplace for a steal tank and stand. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/my-budget-build-40-gallon-home-made-aio.1125550/

 

[FUNGI]

For the canister, remove all but last sponge (the one that leads to the motor water out). Replace with Live rock rubble. Once a year quick rinse.
HOB skimmers...Tons available on marketplace.(In fact just getting ready to list my Octo 2000HOB for sale)
I personally would suggest you find a EShopps PSK - 75. IMO, best HOB ever, with SUPER quite sicce motor. This is a set and forget skimmer.
Next choice would be a Reef Octo....

NOTE: My Tank:
125g with 3 FX6's
HOB Ice Cap 250 Skimmer
External Cheato Reactor
RazorR5-300 lights

 

[FUNGI]

What model Marineland HOB? If its the big one with the twin wheels, I would keep and turn it into HOB refugium

 

[Biokabe]

This is important to me so hope some people have done it. I have an up, and running fresh water tank. It has been empty for a couple of years. Because it was fesh water there is no sump, nor is there room. As I have been running a 40 on a Fluval canister for over 20years I am intending to keep using my existing Fluval on this one. I also have marineland HOB filters . I am wondering if I should or could keep using it on salt? I intend to make this a minimalist tank with just a few rocks , and small fish . ( maybe 6 ) I want mostly coral the type yet to be determined. It is a long 65 gallon about 20 inches high, 4 feet long, and 12.5 iches deep ( front to back ). I already have two Aquanest lights, but may add some Orphek. So I have three questions. One the Marineland filters keep or not. The Lighting I know the Aquanest which are very similar to A1 Prime lights , have a very small footprint. Hence the Orphek idea. So any suggestions on that welcome. Keeping in mind I may go to Coral that require higher Par
Here is the main question. There is fresh Water in it now. I have read in the past to NOT add salt straight into a tank. I assume that is when it is inhabited. So am I wrong? could I just add salt? Or is another method better ?
Long winded but all help welcome Thanks. Wally

Addressing your questions one at a time:

Yes, you can run a reef tank with a canister and Marineland HOB filters. It's not ideal, but it's perfectly workable. The big drawbacks are first, they tend to trap detritus in environments that are prone to decay without promoting other lifeforms that process the decay products. So you do tend to get higher nitrates than normal when running off of those types of filtration. And second, they spend a lot of real estate on things that aren't terribly useful to reef tanks while not having space for things that are. But, if those are your options, then those are your options, and they will work. Just not as well as if you had something designed for reefs.

I think you might want to rethink minimalism re: Rocks. In the reef tank, rocks are actually your primary method of filtration. They provide homes for both beneficial bacteria and beneficial microfauna, and they're also the prime sites for coral placement. Finally, they offer areas of shelter and cover for your fish, providing them with sleeping spots and ways to break engagement during aggression. It's one area where our desire for aesthetics needs to take a back seat to the needs of our animals.

The caution against mixing salt is 100% about protecting whatever life is in the tank. As the water mixes up, it experiences rapid changes in salinity (obviously), but also pH, alkalinity, and all other parameters. This rapid change can be lethal to any animals currently living in the tank. If you don't have any animals living in the tank, obviously you don't really care about that.

As for lighting... you really should make a post specifically about that, because the advice there is going to depend entirely on what you want to do with the tank.

 

[Fish Fan]

Thank you for the input. I Have already removed the substrate 2 years ago since my cichlids died of Malawi bloat which is an intestinal infection from being fed fish food with fish byproducts in it. Thanks LFS . Interesting about the contents of the canister. I will follow your recommendation there. I was intending to do a complete fishless cycle as with my current tank. It has had Rodi water in it and topped of with it for two years as well. I hope others respond. I have noticed a lack of others interest lately bringing me to consider not visiting the site anymore. So your response is very welcome, and also hope you receive acalaids because you always are trying to help others. By the way I forgot about a skimmer, and would not be without one. WE talked about yours but I cannot remember without going back, the manufacturer, and if they make a HOB. Could you please refresh me?

I'm sorry to hear that you've not been enjoying the forum lately! I hope I was some help, and I hope you stick around

Don't believe just me, listen to @FUNGI and others who run successful tanks using canister filters

Good luck with your project, I'll be following!

 

[Freenow54]

You may want to check out my budget build, it may help with some ideas. It was a 40gallon breeder I got from Facebook marketplace for a steal tank and stand. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/my-budget-build-40-gallon-home-made-aio.1125550/

Thank you I did check it out, Currently have all I need except skimmer, and possibly light upgrade but that depends on the Coral requirements. I used to have a link to a video but cant find it now pretty strange. It shows my goal. If you goggle Aquariums by design you may find it

 

[Freenow54]

Addressing your questions one at a time:

Yes, you can run a reef tank with a canister and Marineland HOB filters. It's not ideal, but it's perfectly workable. The big drawbacks are first, they tend to trap detritus in environments that are prone to decay without promoting other lifeforms that process the decay products. So you do tend to get higher nitrates than normal when running off of those types of filtration. And second, they spend a lot of real estate on things that aren't terribly useful to reef tanks while not having space for things that are. But, if those are your options, then those are your options, and they will work. Just not as well as if you had something designed for reefs.

I think you might want to rethink minimalism re: Rocks. In the reef tank, rocks are actually your primary method of filtration. They provide homes for both beneficial bacteria and beneficial microfauna, and they're also the prime sites for coral placement. Finally, they offer areas of shelter and cover for your fish, providing them with sleeping spots and ways to break engagement during aggression. It's one area where our desire for aesthetics needs to take a back seat to the needs of our animals.

The caution against mixing salt is 100% about protecting whatever life is in the tank. As the water mixes up, it experiences rapid changes in salinity (obviously), but also pH, alkalinity, and all other parameters. This rapid change can be lethal to any animals currently living in the tank. If you don't have any animals living in the tank, obviously you don't really care about that.

As for lighting... you really should make a post specifically about that, because the advice there is going to depend entirely on what you want to do with the tank.

Thanks for the input. Its not my opinion at all . It is what I have and cannot change since the stand was built for fresh water. So yes very restricted options I have been debating with myself about the rocks, type, and how much. Besides it being very expensive I was hoping the bio load would be minimal with only 6 or so small fish. Good point as well for hiding spots. All my fish show that they want their own spot, also I am having difficulty finding small community fish. I absolutely am going to make areas for coral. That was my mistake on my existing build. Good idea as to lighting. I will do that when I decide the level of difficulty I am going to go for. At the moment I am learning about types on my second build. My first is full of mushrooms. The second one has so called easy to intermediate level, and am learning about trace elements balling method ect. I am having mixed results so far. The main thing that I learned is flow. I took out all my power heads and only have main pump canister filter, and a marineland scrubber. They responded well to the indirect flow. Funny thing when I shut down the flow during my sump maintenance the coral open up even more. Great input Thanks. Wally

 

[Freenow54]

I'm sorry to hear that you've not been enjoying the forum lately! I hope I was some help, and I hope you stick around

Don't believe just me, listen to @FUNGI and others who run successful tanks using canister filters

Good luck with your project, I'll be following!

Yes thanks for the reminder to do a thread. I have been getting some response on this post so encouraging

 

[Freenow54]

Yes thanks for the reminder to do a thread. I have been getting some response on this post so encouraging

Sorry as I said you were of great help thanks if you think of anything else please post

 

[Freenow54]

For the canister, remove all but last sponge (the one that leads to the motor water out). Replace with Live rock rubble. Once a year quick rinse.
HOB skimmers...Tons available on marketplace.(In fact just getting ready to list my Octo 2000HOB for sale)
I personally would suggest you find a EShopps PSK - 75. IMO, best HOB ever, with SUPER quite sicce motor. This is a set and forget skimmer.
Next choice would be a Reef Octo....

NOTE: My Tank:
125g with 3 FX6's
HOB Ice Cap 250 Skimmer
External Cheato Reactor
RazorR5-300 lights

Hey Sorry for the late Reply trying to finish my summer projects while weather permits. I have an Eshiopps skimmer on my one tank so yes I like it. Also Sounds like I wil get another Canister filter . Is it The Same Set Up? Dont Know anything about Cheato Reactors so some work. Also hard to get it here can get macro algae though if it is the red leafy looking stuff yes?. I also have a Razor light on my 40 only three light colours 5 time periods , I have another brand new as a back up I have never need it original over 10 years old giddy up. But have spare lights I can use may have to get more not sure since tank is 4 feet long

Please read this through and advise me please

 

[Freenow54]

I don't see why you can't add the salt directly to this tank at this point, given that there's no desirable livestock to harm. However, you may want to consider using RODI water for your new marine tank, if you're going to keep corals (I am assuming you're using tap water in your freshwater system currently). You could certainly start it with tap water, and then over time with water changes replace it with saltwater made from RODI (unless, of course, you have really great tap water).

Reef tanks can absolutely be run with HOB filters like the Marineland, as well as canister filters. You could look into something like a HOB protein skimmer or Refugium if/when you think you may need one.

The freshwater nitrifying bacteria in your filters now can't handle the salinity of saltwater, and will be of no real benefit, so I would expect a full cycle on this tank. I would also suggest loading your canister filter with mostly rock rubble, I personally think too much mechanical (sponges, floss, etc.) in a canister isn't a good idea, unless you're willing to clean your canister at least once a week. I'd use it mostly for flow and "extra" biofiltration, especially if you're going with a minimal aquascape in the display.

Are you planning on swapping out the substrate? I'd probably remove whatever freshwater sand or gravel you have, and replace it with a saltwater aragonite sand or similar product.

I am unfamiliar with your lighting choices, so I'll leave that up to others

I hope that helps and good luck!

So this is what I originally was talking about maybe my skin is too thin. I spent a couple of hours at least getting pictures of my granddaughters trip to the Toronto Aquarium Transferring them to my PC saving them , and posting them. Maybe and I thank them a few looked at it, Why bother? Took a video of my Tang licking up algae while I was cleaning the glass not going to bother posting. I will just do my Tank build post pictures as promised for a few and carry on

 

[Freenow54]

Hey Sorry for the late Reply trying to finish my summer projects while weather permits. I have an Eshiopps skimmer on my one tank so yes I like it. Also Sounds like I wil get another Canister filter . Is it The Same Set Up? Dont Know anything about Cheato Reactors so some work. Also hard to get it here can get macro algae though if it is the red leafy looking stuff yes?. I also have a Razor light on my 40 only three light colours 5 time periods , I have another brand new as a back up I have never need it original over 10 years old giddy up. But have spare lights I can use may have to get more not sure since tank is 4 feet long

Please read this through and advise me please

See my post. Cannot get Eshopps they are out of stock. They are restructuring? because of Tariffs. What would be your second choice I have no experience except it and an in sump Octo

 

[Fish Fan]

See my post. Cannot get Eshopps they are out of stock. They are restructuring? because of Tariffs. What would be your second choice I have no experience except it and an in sump Octo

I'm not following your question, are you looking for a skimmer recommendation? I haven't used a skimmer in some time, but the Reef Octo's were always my go to, and I believe they are still well liked.

 

[Mongo1.0]

This is important to me so hope some people have done it. I have an up, and running fresh water tank. It has been empty for a couple of years. Because it was fesh water there is no sump, nor is there room. As I have been running a 40 on a Fluval canister for over 20years I am intending to keep using my existing Fluval on this one. I also have marineland HOB filters . I am wondering if I should or could keep using it on salt? I intend to make this a minimalist tank with just a few rocks , and small fish . ( maybe 6 ) I want mostly coral the type yet to be determined. It is a long 65 gallon about 20 inches high, 4 feet long, and 12.5 iches deep ( front to back ). I already have two Aquanest lights, but may add some Orphek. So I have three questions. One the Marineland filters keep or not. The Lighting I know the Aquanest which are very similar to A1 Prime lights , have a very small footprint. Hence the Orphek idea. So any suggestions on that welcome. Keeping in mind I may go to Coral that require higher Par
Here is the main question. There is fresh Water in it now. I have read in the past to NOT add salt straight into a tank. I assume that is when it is inhabited. So am I wrong? could I just add salt? Or is another method better ?
Long winded but all help welcome Thanks. Wally

To make sure all the salt dissolves, I would take some water out of the tank and mix the salt in it and then add the saltwater to the tank. Might keep you from adding to much.

 

[Freenow54]

I'm not following your question, are you looking for a skimmer recommendation? I haven't used a skimmer in some time, but the Reef Octo's were always my go to, and I believe they are still well liked.

Thank You yes there were about four mentioned by others the regular crowd but one odd ball and however tiold me has not responded. I certainly like OCTO wondering why you dont use a Skimmer?

To make sure all the salt dissolves, I would take some water out of the tank and mix the salt in it and then add the saltwater to the tank. Might keep you from adding to much.

After some thought I am going to mix it all at my Rodi station and add it mixed. I was wondering if undissolved granules could wreck my filter impeller.Thanks

 

[Fish Fan]

Thank You yes there were about four mentioned by others the regular crowd but one odd ball and however tiold me has not responded. I certainly like OCTO wondering why you dont use a Skimmer?

Because most recently I've only had small tanks that I can manage with water changes. But I used to have a couple of the Reef Octopus skimmers, and I would be looking for one when I get my 150 going. I'm sure there's lots of good choices though.