So by being more pure, mixing faster and cleaner, that’s worth 3x the cost?
If you said better coral and growth, I might open my wallet more.
I don’t doubt an aquarists assessment that high end salt is better, just can’t seem to find qualitative proof of that.
I have used TMP, RS and now Fritz, in 5 years and I can’t tell any difference at all between them except for mixing levels.
Oh Lord, I don't want to start a debate.
IO was developed as a salt for large public aquariums that are fish only.
I'm not understanding why you want big, beautiful, jawdropping corals but go inexpensive on the main thing they rely on: a highly developed salt with proper major, minor and trace elements.
IME the best form of dosing is NOT dosing 2part, NOT having up-teen dosing pumps mounted to a wall....
.... the best form of dosing is doing highly regimented waterchanges with a high grade salt.
Going back to my Porsche analogy.... its like saying I can save money on my Porsche costs by buying 87-octance, yet going down to AutoZone and buy a basket-full of 5 different gas treatments to treat the 87-octane gas.
I say...C'MON MAN, just buy the great stuff upfront and quit playing Chemist and quit trying to cheat the system, the regiment, the HUSBANDRY.
In Toronto, Canada, they are asking $170-180 for 200g mix and Fritz is at $60.That‘s for users to decide, and you do have a good point for sure. Dang is it triple the price? I was thinking double but still.
If alk drops 10% you don't have to change 100% of the water daily to get it back, all depends on what you keep your alk and what the new salt is. Typically they are not one in the same. I only dose kalk and change about 3-4% water per day and my SPS grow fine and alk and calcium is maintained.Using waterchanges as your only "dosing" is essentially impossible for many people without changing the majority of the water daily(which would be ignorant and has zero to do with whether it is affordable). The reality is calc/alk get used up much much faster than trace elements so there is zero reason to not dose those. My smallest tank (including sump is about 100g water) will drop over 1 dkh daily without dosing. If my salt mix is 11 and it drops to 10 in one day you realize i would have to do 100% water change to get back to 11 right? Thats just ignorance.
Now doing AWC and dosing the makeup water may make perfect sense depending on scenario, but thinking high uptake systems can keep up with calc/alk requirements just by waterchanges show a complete lack of knowledge.
The real workhorse is probably your kalk. I can't think of a mature system being maintained only on WC only.If alk drops 10% you don't have to change 100% of the water daily to get it back, all depends on what you keep your alk and what the new salt is. Typically they are not one in the same. I only dose kalk and change about 3-4% water per day and my SPS grow fine and alk and calcium is maintained.
I assume you did not read the post i was quoting or not understand it. The whole point is dosing is often required(whether it is 2-partx kalk,etc.). His argument was is all people should do is water changes and that eliminates need for dosing if you do it enough and use the "right" salt. And yes if you use 11 kh salt and it goes down 1kh in a day it would take a 100% water change to get it back to 11 if you dont dose. It is a bit different story if you maintain alk at a level well below your salt mix, but the concept is the same and in a high demand system would still require frequent massive water changes. This is simple math really..... Of course the idea of maintaining calc/alk in a high demand system purely through WC is asinine in itself, but that is my point.If alk drops 10% you don't have to change 100% of the water daily to get it back, all depends on what you keep your alk and what the new salt is. Typically they are not one in the same. I only dose kalk and change about 3-4% water per day and my SPS grow fine and alk and calcium is maintained.