Check Valves needed for RODI unit?

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pledosophy

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I have an RODI unit that I pieced together. It is an old AIr, Water and Ice unit that I added an extra RO membrane and a few additional cannisters to.

When I have my sensor shut off the unit when my bin is full, the RODI unit continues to drain and you can see the chambers emptying.

Do I need to add check valves or is there something else I am missing/forgetting.

Thank you!
 
I have an RODI unit that I pieced together. It is an old AIr, Water and Ice unit that I added an extra RO membrane and a few additional cannisters to.

When I have my sensor shut off the unit when my bin is full, the RODI unit continues to drain and you can see the chambers emptying.

Do I need to add check valves or is there something else I am missing/forgetting.

Thank you!
If you’re just atmosphere draining water from your DI canisters, downhill from them; a siphon will continue to drain some water from the canisters once you turn the system off…

An RO system should have a check valve at least on the RO membrane housing inlet; usually built into a push connect or NPT elbow!

Hopefully you also have a flow restrictor on the waste line?
 
If your unit has a manual asov yes you need a check valve on the intake line. Have a typhoon extreme 3 myself.
 
If you’re just atmosphere draining water from your DI canisters, downhill from them; a siphon will continue to drain some water from the canisters once you turn the system off…

An RO system should have a check valve at least on the RO membrane housing inlet; usually built into a push connect or NPT elbow!

Hopefully you also have a flow restrictor on the waste line?

Thank you.

I do have a flow restrictor on the RO waste line, although I am not sure what/why to set it for to be honest.

My RO has the check valve, it is just the DI container that continues to drain.
 
Thank you.

I do have a flow restrictor on the RO waste line, although I am not sure what/why to set it for to be honest.

My RO has the check valve, it is just the DI container that continues to drain.
The flow restrictor in the waste line is sized based on how much waste you’re willing to produce in the name of product water purity! — omitting the flow restrictor completely would make more or less all water through the RO system just discharge out the waste line!

The DI canisters draining is normal if the outlet tubing runs downhill; just a simple siphon forming! — it won’t affect water quality, but you can put a valve after the DI stage if it bothers you!
 
The flow restrictor in the waste line is sized based on how much waste you’re willing to produce in the name of product water purity!

The DI canisters draining is normal if the outlet tubing runs downhill; just a simple siphon forming! — it won’t affect water quality, but you can put a valve after the DI stage if it bothers you!
Thank you.

Is there a formula or way to know the appropriate amount to set the flow restrictor?

I added a second RO membrane, a carbon block filter, and a sediment filter to my unit to try to reduce the amount of waste water. Reducing it would be great since I live in a desert climate, but I also want 0 TDS water.
 
Is there a formula or way to know the appropriate amount to set the flow restrictor?
I’m pretty sure there’s something, but I haven’t used it in at least a decade and can’t recall what/how I came to the numbers I did… I’ll think on that one!

In the meantime; I can tell you how my functionally similar RODI is set up:

my old BRS 6-stage 150GPD water saver plus RODI system came with dual RO membranes; Dow Filmtech 99.5% TDS rejection (IIRC, May be 99% TDS rejection instead…)

This system has either 1.5:1 or 2:1 waste: product ratio from factory (info not available online readily anymore, and I’ve long since forgotten…)

It employs a flush valve with built in flow restrictor. Factory flow restrictor was 400 liters per-day; producing the aforementioned waste:product ratio…. — I switched to a 550LPD flow restrictor, increasing the RO membranes product water purity at the expense of extra water discarded as waste!

My city water is 200-220PPM TDS, my RO membrane product water is 1-2ppm TDS. — you want to get your RO product water as clean as possible before the DI stage(s), thereby reducing DI resin consumption!

I added a second RO membrane
Once you start trying to pressurize multiple RO membranes, city water pressure starts to be an issue, depending on the specific municipality! — dual membrane RO systems often list a minimum operating pressure of 65PSI, and perform even better at higher pressures (up to the safe operating limit of the tubing, fittings, and housings, of course)! — An RO water pressure booster pump is what I use here, running the system around 90-95PSI!

Reducing it would be great since I live in a desert climate, but I also want 0 TDS water.

Your RO membranes will get you CLOSE to 0PPM TDS, but aren’t intended to do that on their own; this is where DI resin comes in! — we just shoot for getting close to 0ppm RO product water so DI resin is consumed slower!

I recommend plumbing your RO waste line to an outdoor water feature or garden to use the waste water for something! — mine goes to my outdoor aquaponic system!
 

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