Cirrhilabrus Complexes: Inferiority Need Not Apply (1st Revision)

[Daniel@R2R]

Wow! Hope this works out!

 

[DirtDiggler2823]

Probably a good sign but I would leave in the box for a few days to be safe and let the Ruby calm a bit. However, if you plan to pull the Solor anyway, I'd pull him now.

Thank you for the guidance BTW. I'm a noob and this is my first go round with wrasses. They are such cool little fish, and I love their colors, but I'm still learning how to deal with their aggression levels. How many more days should the rubyhead be left in the acclimation box, and should the lights be off the entire time? I shut the lights off yesterday to try to calm the tank down.

 

[HairyGary]

Thank you for the guidance BTW. I'm a noob and this is my first go round with wrasses. They are such cool little fish, and I love their colors, but I'm still learning how to deal with their aggression levels. How many more days should the rubyhead be left in the acclimation box, and should the lights be off the entire time? I shut the lights off yesterday to try to calm the tank down.

No problem. You dont need to turn the lights off especially if your corals may suffer.

I normally leave a new fish in acclimation from 4-7 days regardless. I try to watch (if i'm at home) at differing times throughout the day for any aggression from resident wrasses.

I suggest you read the first page of this thread for Hunter's chart for wrasse aggression and familial relationships. Keep in mind that there are always exceptions. With wrasses and new wrasse additions, there are three things I always do - use a netted cover, acclimation box and try to add the more passive wrasse first if possible. So use the chart as a general tool for planning your wrasse stock list. Both of the wrasse you have are middle of the road in aggression but the issue is they are from the same sub family.

Good luck and I hope it works out.

 

[RamsReef]

I wouldn't, but that's me. I put way to much time and money into fish, QT, etc to have them kill each other.

Your milage may vary.

 

[DirtDiggler2823]

No problem. You dont need to turn the lights off especially if your corals may suffer.

I normally leave a new fish in acclimation from 4-7 days regardless. I try to watch (if i'm at home) at differing times throughout the day for any aggression from resident wrasses.

I suggest you read the first page of this thread for Hunter's chart for wrasse aggression and familial relationships. Keep in mind that there are always exceptions. With wrasses and new wrasse additions, there are three things I always do - use a netted cover, acclimation box and try to add the more passive wrasse first if possible. So use the chart as a general tool for planning your wrasse stock list. Both of the wrasse you have are middle of the road in aggression but the issue is they are from the same sub family.

Good luck and I hope it works out.

I been reading the thread since it began, but I will go back and look at the first page. I think my ability to identify which wrasse was which is where things went sideways on this one. I wouldn't have gotten him if I had been able to properly ID him. He was simply listed as "fairy wrasse" at the LFS because that is how their vendor ships them.

 

[HairyGary]

I been reading the thread since it began, but I will go back and look at the first page. I think my ability to identify which wrasse was which is where things went sideways on this one. I wouldn't have gotten him if I had been able to properly ID him. He was simply listed as "fairy wrasse" at the LFS because that is how their vendor ships them.

If you are unsure again, snap a pic and post on Wrasse ID thread. I bet you get a response in a few minutes.

 

[DirtDiggler2823]

If you are unsure again, snap a pic and post on Wrasse ID thread. I bet you get a response in a few minutes.

I had totally forgotten we had a wrasse ID thread in R2R. I'll get a picture in there soon. Once again, thank you for the guidance.

 

[dwest]

I been reading the thread since it began, but I will go back and look at the first page. I think my ability to identify which wrasse was which is where things went sideways on this one. I wouldn't have gotten him if I had been able to properly ID him. He was simply listed as "fairy wrasse" at the LFS because that is how their vendor ships them.

I quit buying wrasses at LFS because of misidentification. LA for me now.

 

[CherBear811]

Fantastic chart!! Reef nerd excitement, level: 10!

 

[cody hendrix]

With bigger tank probably ok. Use acclimation box though

How long do you keep them in a acclimation box? Especially if you see no agression towards them from the other fish.

 

[DirtDiggler2823]

How long do you keep them in a acclimation box? Especially if you see no agression towards them from the other fish.

@HairyGary gave the time frame of 4-7 days, so that is what I will do. My plan is to wait the week and then release. I'll have to remove my rocks if I have to catch either one of these wrasses at full strength, so waiting and releasing gives me a chance to see if they could work together without having to tear my tank apart, but if I have to tear it apart to catch a fish, it's gonna be that solor wrasse because the new guy is so beautiful.

 

[HairyGary]

How long do you keep them in a acclimation box? Especially if you see no agression towards them from the other fish.

Usually 4-7 days regardless for fairies and flashers. Gives them time to settle in.

 

[DirtDiggler2823]

Can't find this one on the diagram

Cirrhilabrus flavidorsalis

Any known compatibility issues?

 

[HairyGary]

Can't find this one on the diagram

Cirrhilabrus flavidorsalis

Any known compatibility issues?

Lubbocki family

Hunter has it listed here as well:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/all-about-reef-safe-wrasses-in-aquaria.259894/

Given the description I would call it middle of the road.

 

[DirtDiggler2823]

Lubbocki family

Hunter has it listed here as well:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/all-about-reef-safe-wrasses-in-aquaria.259894/

Given the description I would call it middle of the road.

Thanks!

 

[AlbinoTang]

Thanks!

Something that it has been working for me in this case is putting the aggressor on the sump or in a black box for two o three days (giving him the impression that he is in a different place, and then when he will come back to DT he will be thinking that he is in a new environment) , and I release the victim into the system. After I see the victim is acclimated in to the system, then I get the aggressor into the acclimation box and observe if when the victim wrasse is around him, he shows any kind of aggression, if it is does not happen I will release the aggressor into the system in a couple of days , and if it is happen again then unfortunately the relation is not going to work.

PD: Remember to cover the sump if you put him in the sump.

 

[DirtDiggler2823]

Something that it has been working for me in this case is putting the aggressor on the sump or in a black box for two o three days (giving him the impression that he is in a different place, and then when he will come back to DT he will be thinking that he is in a new environment) , and I release the victim into the system. After I see the victim is acclimated in to the system, then I get the aggressor into the acclimation box and observe if when the victim wrasse is around him, he shows any kind of aggression, if it is does not happen I will release the aggressor into the system in a couple of days , and if it is happen again then unfortunately the relation is not going to work.

PD: Remember to cover the sump if you put him in the sump.

I let the rubyhead out yesterday, and the aggression between the two is much more manageable now. They do not pursue, and I haven't seen any bites between the two. I kept the new guy in the acclimation box because he was easiest to catch, but going forward I will need to use better eyes on the list.

 

[evolved]

Maybe evolved or eatbreakfast can do that one day. I bet if you asked about specific ones they would be more than happy to answer questions.

Yep TJ, Hunter I just volunteered you guys!

Eh, someday. Already need to update this one for a couple of the prior placeholders with their now official latin names.
Have a few other articles I'd like to do first.

I just saw a thread on another forum about Pseudocheilinus (lined wrasses). OP has a 450 gallon that he tried adding a 4 line and a mystery wrasse. Even after 3 days using an acclimation box, it still isn't working...in a 450 gallon.

Avoid that genus if you want more than one wrasse.

Yup. Sounds exactly right and as expected.

How much info do we have on Monsoon Wrasses at this point? I just picked up a tiny female (2"). I am guessing they get about Naoko size and have a similar attitude? I plan to keep her in QT for as long as possible to see if I can get her to grow another inch or so before she goes in with my bigger fish. I don't want my Aussie Harlequin Tusk mistaking her for food.

They're going to be nearly as much of a jerk as Naoko. Pretty, but I'll never own one for that reason.

Was not aware of that, even still, they are some really nice looking fish between the coloration and exaggerated finnage.

But usually pretty mean too... (sailfin, bluethroat, etc)

He was simply listed as "fairy wrasse" at the LFS because that is how their vendor ships them.

If you are unsure again, snap a pic and post on Wrasse ID thread. I bet you get a response in a few minutes.

Yeah, that. Was literally about to say the same thing. I do get email alerts on that one, so provided I'm awake and paying any attention to my phone I'm pretty quick to respond.

 

[mattzang]

They're going to be nearly as much of a jerk as Naoko. Pretty, but I'll never own one for that reason.

But usually pretty mean too... (sailfin, bluethroat, etc)

I'm sure you've answered this elsewhere, but just wondering, are the aggressive fairy wrasses aggressive to things like halichoeres wrasses, planktivore type fish like anthias, amd small goby type fish? or are they just ***** to other cirrhilabrus

 

[evolved]

I'm sure you've answered this elsewhere, but just wondering, are the aggressive fairy wrasses aggressive to things like halichoeres wrasses, planktivore type fish like anthias, amd small goby type fish? or are they just ***** to other cirrhilabrus

Depends on the complex. Most are just to other Cirrhilabrus, but the filamentosus or rubriventralis can be overbearing to other non-wrasses as well.

Paracheilinus can be equally targeted by some of the more aggressive complexes too.