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Committing the Unforgivable Sin

skimjim

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180g DT with 5 tangs that actually all get along and sometimes school together. What a blessing.

7in full adult Blue Hippo picked up quite a bit of ICH after the final 5th addition of a convict tang from LiveAquaria that showed up reeeeeeally beat up. This convict infected my Hippo and then it started to spread to all the other tangs. First signs were flashing against the bottom.....then progress ed a few days later, 4 of the 5 were pretty much ICH covered.

So my mind was racing. Didn't want to breakdown 250lbs of aquascaping and go the whole QT for what.... 74 days or smthg of fallow? Puke ;Drool ... Id rather be forced by my Doctor to be Vegan

So I got to thinking that my corals are pretty much zoas/palys ... like 90% of the tank. would I be willing to lose the other 10% if I took drastic measure WITHIN the DT???

Zoas/palys are pretty tough guys. I remember reading they can thrive at the mouths of rivers dumping into the ocean. I remember old-timers from the 70s and 80s say a lot of zoas were shipped with only wet newspaper covering the LR

So the unforgivable sin is two days ago I immediately shock dropped my DT's SG from 1.024 to a now stable 1.015

I've also have an aerator sucking air from the outside pumping bubbles into my sump. Ive always have had this outside air supplying air to an aerator and my skimmer.

So the 2nd thing i did is i pointed my aerator directly at my return plumbing so the water that being returned into the DT is like a massive amt of micro bubbles.

3rd action was to put filter socks on the overflow pipes into the sump AND put a UV-C 254nm Sterilization submersible glass light tube right next to these two filter socks.

Btwn the 1.015, the aeration and the UV-C light.... the tangs are doing 1000% better. They are back to eating like pigs.

They still have a lil ICH showing but a reduction of at least 75%. The hope is most of the ICH that has dropped off the tangs is being caught by my filter socks and the UV-C light is cooking the ICH so it diesnt regenerate....

So the "unforgivable " part involves the corals trying to live in 1.015 SG.

Surprising all the zoas/palys don't look any different after 2 days of 1.015. I have a couple of Duncans that don't look too happy. I might pull them and put in a small 10g frag tank at 1.024

So the longview is to keep the DT as long as i can at 1.015. All the while WATCHING my coral. If a coral'ed rock starts to look bad... outta of DT and into the Coral QT at normal 1.024 SG.

Preventative steps for the tangs moving forward....

* feeding entire sheets of nori soaked in Garlic Guard then air dried overnight making the nori inundated with garlic (tip: get a small spray bottle and fill it with garlic guard. Take your dry roasted nori sheet and spray bottle the garlic guard making the sheet evenly wet. Let dry overnight)

* Im also having African Cleaner Wrasse delivered tmrw.

Plan is to eventually get the DT back to 1.024 but only after the tangs have healed. I'll take the course of at least 2 weeks to raise SG from 1.015 to 1.024

I'll keep posting some updates.
 
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Elaine123

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180g DT with 5 tangs that actually all get along and sometimes school together. What a blessing.

7in full adult Blue Hippo picked up quite a bit of ICH after the final 5th addition of a convict tang from LiveAquaria that showed up reeeeeeally beat up. This convict infected my Hippo and then it started to spread to all the other tangs. First signs were flashing against the bottom.....then progress ed a few days later, 4 of the 5 were pretty much ICH covered.

So my mind was racing. Didn't want to breakdown 250lbs of aquascaping and go the whole QT for what.... 74 days or smthg of fallow? Puke ;Drool ... Id rather be forced by my Doctor to be Vegan

So I got to thinking that my corals are pretty much zoas/palys ... like 90% of the tank. would I be willing to lose the other 10% if I took drastic measure WITHIN the DT???

Zoas/palys are pretty tough guys. I remember reading they can thrive at the mouths of rivers dumping into the ocean. I remember old-timers from the 70s and 80s say a lot of zoas were shipped with only wet newspaper covering the LR

So the unforgivable sin is two days ago I immediately shock dropped my DT's SG from 1.024 to a now stable 1.015

I've also have an aerator sucking air from the outside pumping bubbles into my sump. Ive always have had this outside air supplying air to an aerator and my skimmer.

So the 2nd thing i did is i pointed my aerator directly at my return plumbing so the water that being returned into the DT is like a massive amt of micro bubbles.

3rd action was to put filter socks on the overflow pipes into the sump AND put a UV-C 254nm Sterilization submersible glass light tube right next to these two filter socks.

Btwn the 1.015, the aeration and the UV-C light.... the tangs are doing 1000% better. They are back to eating like pigs.

They still have a lil ICH showing but a reduction of at least 75%. The hope is most of the ICH that has dropped off the tangs is being caught by my filter socks and the UV-C light is cooking the ICH so it diesnt regenerate....

So the "unforgivable " part involves the corals trying to live in 1.015 SG.

Surprising all the zoas/palys don't look any different after 2 days of 1.015. I have a couple of Duncans that don't look too happy. I might pull them and put in a small 10g frag tank at 1.024

So the longview is to keep the DT as long as i can at 1.015. All the while WATCHING my coral. If a coral'ed rock starts to look bad... outta of DT and into the Coral QT at normal 1.024 SG.

Preventative steps for the tangs moving forward....

* feeding entire sheets of nori soaked in Garlic Guard then air dried overnight making the nori inundated with garlic (tip: get a small spray bottle and fill it with garlic guard. Take your dry roasted nori sheet and spray bottle the garlic guard making the sheet evenly wet. Let dry overnight)

* Im also having African Cleaner Wrasse delivered tmrw.

Plan is to eventually get the DT back to 1.024 but only after the tangs have healed. I'll take the course of at least 2 weeks to raise SG from 1.015 to 1.024

I'll keep posting some updates.
Innovative possible solution but won't you have to do this for the standard 76 (I think) number of days? @Jay Hemdal what are your thoughts?
 
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skimjim

skimjim

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most wholesale places keep their fish in 1.016~ and that clearly doesn't kill ich soooooo

Not digging the snarkiness with "good luck". Plenty of snarky opportunities over at Reef Central. ... please and thank you.

I believe wholesalers use ~1.016 bc they know fish are happier and external and internal diseases are less intense.

I'm not saying my 1.015 move is the greatest move ever.... but it beats leaving it at 1.024 and netting out dead tangs one after another.....


.
 
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skimjim

skimjim

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Ok... i have smtgh to report.

Even though zoas palys are still open at 1.015 SG... I did notice tonight during my nightly "churn" where I crank up the Vortechs to get debris moving.... i noticed a few zoa paly stems free floating.

This tells me possibly the 1.015 SG is loosening their foothold on the LR.

I'm continuing the 1.015 but reeeeeeally watching my flow so its delicate and doesn't dislodge zoas palys from the LR.
 

josephxsxn

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Speculation makes me think they know the environment isn't great and are trying to let go and relocate. Like when an SPS coral is shocked and expells all it's polys that then attempt to regrow elsewhere when they land.
 

Rjmul

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Not digging the snarkiness with "good luck". Plenty of snarky opportunities over at Reef Central. ... please and thank you.

I believe wholesalers use ~1.016 bc they know fish are happier and external and internal diseases are less intense.

I'm not saying my 1.015 move is the greatest move ever.... but it beats leaving it at 1.024 and netting out dead tangs one after another.....

Try polyp lab medic. I'm having success
.
 

Kalinina

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I keep reading about the poly lab medic, I want to believe it’s working!! Are you using UV with it?
 
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TJDSEKULA

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It seems like your going through lot of trouble to do ick management and it would only take a little more to do a true eradication. Why not drop down to true hypo and just put the coral in the 10gal holding tank for fallow? I know many reefers cant qt etc and choose to manage ick, if thats the route your going thats fine. but, if your putting in all this effort it seems like with so few coral it would be the prime time to just go a little farther and be done with it. Just my honest thoughts, hope you have good luck with the fish whatever approach you take.
 

Greg Gdowski

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It seems like your going through lot of trouble to do ick management and it would only take a little more to do a true eradication. Why not drop down to true hypo and just put the coral in the 10gal holding tank for fallow? I know many reefers cant qt etc and choose to manage ick, if thats the route your going thats fine. but, if your putting in all this effort it seems like with so few coral it would be the prime time to just go a little farther and be done with it. Just my honest thoughts, hope you have good luck with the fish whatever approach you take.
I was thinking along the same lines, but I wasn't sure how many corals we were talking about. I would at a minimum pull out some of the Palys and zoas that you like and put them in a safe haven. That said, even moving the corals into a different tank would mean isolation for the entire ick incubation cycle. I'm just not sure how this technique really breaks the cycle since one stage is surface bound and is not entirely floating in the water column. Tough problem. I feel sorry for you. Deciding whether to or not to go fallow is a tough call for all of us.
 

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