Connecting to return bulkhead with threads (inside/wet side)...

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Biff0rz

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Yepp, happens to the best of us :)
Thankfully it's an easy fix. I watched a plumber I subbed once use the wrong pvc glue to build a whole public water treatment plant (well I didn't personally watch that part) when they released water every connection leaked and/or blew. At least you found this now not with gallons of water everywhere ;)
Well...the tank IS full..heh. I was testing stuff. Thankfully if I have to drain the overflow and replace this bulkhead if the T+2 doesn't work it won't be so terrible. I only filled it with RO water, no salt yet.

I think you may be conflating standards. ABS and PVC are types of plastic and have nothing to do with the thread types they may or may not be. Typically most schedule 80 threaded fittings conform to the NPT standard. You can Google more information on that (national pipe thread). The common bulkheads sold that are made of ABS plastic should conform to that of NPT as well. However manufacturing tolerances and the difference in material types can lead to less satisfactory results. Usually plumbers putty or a quality pipe tape applied in the correct fashion can result in a leak free joint. However, for peace of mind and as dirt cheap as these bulkheads are I'd recommend getting a slip fitting on your exit side and doing a solvent weld. The end that goes to the inside of your tank can be whatever works for you. Being that the fitting is used you are taking you're chances that the threads may or may not be compromised. This advice is just my opinion based on years of general plumbing experience that has nothing to do with reefing but still applies.

Yea if the T+2 doesn't work, I'll just buy a new slip bulkhead and re-do the piping from there to the drain, nbd. Looking at the yellow tube it says its good to 100psi while the red T+2 is good to 12,000....so yea, might be the sealer. The teflon tape was applied properly, but it did tear it up. I'll report back tomorrow, thanks!
 

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Well...the tank IS full..heh. I was testing stuff. Thankfully if I have to drain the overflow and replace this bulkhead if the T+2 doesn't work it won't be so terrible. I only filled it with RO water, no salt yet.



Yea if the T+2 doesn't work, I'll just buy a new slip bulkhead and re-do the piping from there to the drain, nbd. Looking at the yellow tube it says its good to 100psi while the red T+2 is good to 12,000....so yea, might be the sealer. The teflon tape was applied properly, but it did tear it up. I'll report back tomorrow, thanks!
I hope it works out! As an aside, pipe tape isn't even approved for use in pvc applications. Yes in practice it can help but you'll never see it used in commercial or contractor (read inspection applications) home construction. I guess my take away is your mileage may vary lol. In desperation I've even used it haha. I think the biggest variable for you from what I read was that the bullhead was used. Plastic is just not a material built for reuse. Let us know how it turns out!
 
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update: went to lowes and got some T+2. Leaking again...fuuuuuuudge. Called the local LFS, they have new bulkheads in stock, going to go pick one up. I will, unfortunately, have to drain the overflow to make this happen, that'll be fun...not. I do have some larger totes to help prevent spillage, any tips for draining one of these? Maybe siphon from the top first??
 
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Ok so I took the current bulkhead out and apart. It is a TxT. I bought a SxS and a SxT. If I keep the tube together that goes out the top the fitting to the tube is threaded - would I use normal pvc glue to connect it? Otherwise I'll need to find a slip to barb fitting. I'd prefer to use the threaded if possible...

15979657998122104670358371260779.jpg
 
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From the pic
1= 3/4 line into the original barb fitting with threads into the new TxS bulkhead.
2= new 3/4 barb fitting that could replace the barb fitting on #1
3= new SxS bulkhead - note, I don't have a way to connect to the overflow / slip side of the new SxS bulkhead.

So do I reuse the old (non leaking) barb fitting into the new TxS bulkhead or the new barb fitting?

Can I just use regular clear oatley pvc glue that I used for my plumbing?

Lastly when I took the old barb fitting off from the old TxT bulkhead it had some stuff on it similar to Silicone in the threads.

IMG_20200820_194833~2.jpg
 

RobB'z Reef

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From the pic
1= 3/4 line into the original barb fitting with threads into the new TxS bulkhead.
2= new 3/4 barb fitting that could replace the barb fitting on #1
3= new SxS bulkhead - note, I don't have a way to connect to the overflow / slip side of the new SxS bulkhead.

So do I reuse the old (non leaking) barb fitting into the new TxS bulkhead or the new barb fitting?

Can I just use regular clear oatley pvc glue that I used for my plumbing?

Lastly when I took the old barb fitting off from the old TxT bulkhead it had some stuff on it similar to Silicone in the threads.

IMG_20200820_194833~2.jpg
I'd use the new barb fitting with 1, cuz why not have peace of mind as long as you're already using a new TxS bulkhead. Also, don't glue the threads, just use that T+2 there. I think the Oatley is fine for your dry slip side.
 
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I'd use the new barb fitting with 1, cuz why not have peace of mind as long as you're already using a new TxS bulkhead. Also, don't glue the threads, just use that T+2 there. I think the Oatley is fine for your dry slip side.
Perfect, thanks. I'll do that. With the T+2, does that need time to dry?
 
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Happy to report, no leaks now! Woo. I wonder if the bulkhead had a hairline crack or something? Weird. Btw when I glued it in to the abs bulkhead I didn't prime it. I've heard it softens it too much. I did prime the male pipe going in tho.
 

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Happy to report, no leaks now! Woo. I wonder if the bulkhead had a hairline crack or something? Weird. Btw when I glued it in to the abs bulkhead I didn't prime it. I've heard it softens it too much. I did prime the male pipe going in tho.
You were correct to not prime the ABS, for welding ABS to PVC just a general purpose solvent is typically used, no primer for the ABS and primer for the PVC. Nice work fixing your leak.
 

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