Convert LED white light to blue?

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teatimecrumpet

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So, I've been running a 10 gallon with a cheap nicrew classicledplus. Is there a way to cheaply apply a blue filter over the white LEDs to have blue light that makes the coral colors pop? Would some transparent blue acetate work?

This is the the story: I'm new and had a nicrew lying around and what started as a FOWLR journey ended up being a reef tank. My corals have been growing fine and I've been happy with the growth. I have a mix of softies and LPS. I did pick up a kessil a160we but I didn't like the spread and shadowing on it. I could go get a current orbit and be done with it but I like to use things as long as possible if it just needs some minor mods.

Thanks!
 

theatrus

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So, I've been running a 10 gallon with a cheap nicrew classicledplus. Is there a way to cheaply apply a blue filter over the white LEDs to have blue light that makes the coral colors pop? Would some transparent blue acetate work?

This is the the story: I'm new and had a nicrew lying around and what started as a FOWLR journey ended up being a reef tank. My corals have been growing fine and I've been happy with the growth. I have a mix of softies and LPS. I did pick up a kessil a160we but I didn't like the spread and shadowing on it. I could go get a current orbit and be done with it but I like to use things as long as possible if it just needs some minor mods.

Thanks!

This would... work (white LEDs all have a 445-450nm peak), however you will be more the halving the total light output. I'd look into just replacing the LED fixture.
 

Terry Mulhern

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Hi,

I'm trying to create an Arduino based auto lighting system with Arduino aquarium LED controller. Is is easier make a DIY engineering project with NICREW instead? I've spent so much time looking for Arduino tutorials that will be useful for my idea.
 

oreo54

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Hi,

I'm trying to create an Arduino based auto lighting system with Arduino aquarium LED controller. Is is easier make a DIY engineering project with NICREW instead? I've spent so much time looking for Arduino tutorials that will be useful for my idea.
Is all you want is lighting control?

Almost easier not reinventing the wheel.
Typhon(old)Hurricane and Storm controllers are "aduino based"..
Most can have new custom software loaded..

Not as cheap but saves a bunch of mini-hassles..
 

GabeM

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So all white led's actually are blue LEDs with a yellow filter on them. I suppose you could try to find a way to remove that filter without damaging the chip but for the $40 I don't think it's really worth it. I would invest in a decent light.
 

oreo54

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So all white led's actually are blue LEDs with a yellow filter on them. I suppose you could try to find a way to remove that filter without damaging the chip but for the $40 I don't think it's really worth it. I would invest in a decent light.
In order to achieve a target LED white color temperature, a specific amount of phosphor must be evenly distributed over the LED die. White light LEDs are typically made by combining blue light LEDs with yellow phosphor (new developments may also combine red and green phosphors to enhance the light emission spectrum). It is the secondary emission from the yellow phosphor combined with the correct blue light mixture that makes white light. Variations in the amount of phosphor dispensed over multiple blue LEDs have direct impact to the resulting yield of white LEDs with a target color temperature. As such, it is very critical to maintain good control and consistency of the dispensed fluid volume during the LED assembly process in order to have a high production yield.

A mixture of phosphor and a binder (e.g., silicone or epoxy) is used to encapsulate the LED chips in their PLCC package. One of the technical challenges in this LED assembly process is to ensure uniform mixing and dispersion of the phosphor particles within the binder as the phosphor particles tend to settle out after dispensing and before curing. Less uniformity can adversely affect the color quality.
 
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teatimecrumpet

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I just tried to razor blade some of it off and it's such a thin layer and really stuck on there.

I find it hard to believe no one else has successfully done this not just for aquarium lighting! I feel like I have to do this for the DIY community. I think they're using silicone/phosphor mixture.

Anyway thanks for all the help guys. I know I COULD get a new light but thought it worthwhile to tweak.
 

oreo54

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People have done this for lens browning on Violet/uv diodes with mixed success...

since these sorts of issues occur on a lot of cheaper 3W diode boxes it's just easier to swap "eggs"...

Keep in mind you also are cutting the lens off..
 
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teatimecrumpet

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People have done this for lens browning on Violet/uv diodes with mixed success...

since these sorts of issues occur on a lot of cheaper 3W diode boxes it's just easier to swap "eggs"...

Keep in mind you also are cutting the lens off..

Thanks, These are the "flat" type led's so there's no round lens. I just tried to remove it on a junk LED I had laying around by soaking the led with alcohol but the phosphor is still hard and I think I must have scraped/cut the diode. Doesn't look like there's a solvent that will just eat away at the silicone...if it is actually silicone.
 

Terry Mulhern

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Posted by expert:
Is all you want is lighting control?

Almost easier not reinventing the wheel.
Typhon(old)Hurricane and Storm controllers are "aduino based"..
Most can have new custom software loaded..

Not as cheap but saves a bunch of mini-hassles..

Thanks. Perhaps, I'll need an old Typhon controller then. Found a couple of videos on YouTube and asked on Arduino forums. Btw, here's the older thread on the Reef2Reef as well - https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/interest-in-an-arduino-led-controller.334278/
 

theatrus

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Thanks, These are the "flat" type led's so there's no round lens. I just tried to remove it on a junk LED I had laying around by soaking the led with alcohol but the phosphor is still hard and I think I must have scraped/cut the diode. Doesn't look like there's a solvent that will just eat away at the silicone...if it is actually silicone.

There are solvents that will. Long soaks in acetone, or better speciality solvents designed for conformal coating removal. They’re not cheap and readily available though.

You would need to re-coat your bare die in order for it to not die due to environmental contamination. All in all it’s easier and cheaper to actually replace the diodes entirely :)
 

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