Converting freshwater system

[Diman1974]

This is my 300-gallon freshwater system. At some point (hopefully soon), I plan to convert it into a saltwater tank and relocate my coral colonies from an overgrown 120-gallon setup. However, I have a few obstacles to overcome and would really appreciate the R2R community’s input to help me make the right plan.

First, I’m currently using a Custom Aquariums seamless sump that wasn’t designed for saltwater use. While I could make it work, there would be too many compromises for what I envision as my dream setup. Ideally, I’d like to replace it with a Bashsea Pro Series or Synergy TS sump.

The challenge is that the Custom Aquariums stand isn’t designed for a large, non-modular sump. The internal bracing is not removable (confirmed by the manufacturer), and I don’t want to cut the back or side panels and risk compromising the structural integrity of the stand. I’m also not a fan of the current stand height (30”), as I’d like more vertical space underneath to accommodate any skimmer I choose.

Another concern is the overall quality of the stand. While it’s holding the tank just fine, I’d sleep better knowing there’s a metal structure supporting 3,000 pounds of water and equipment.

Here’s what I’m considering:

Option 1:
Buy two 24” × 18” × 16” sumps (Fiji or Eshopps) and connect them in series using 2” bulkheads. This would be a simple and relatively affordable solution (~$600–$800), and I can forget about modifying the current stand or adding aluminum reinforcement.

Option 2:
Order a custom 72” × 24” × 35” aluminum stand from Alufab and cut out the bottom of the existing stand. The original stand would then be placed over the aluminum one and used as a “skin”, with a 6” trim piece added at the base to conceal the metal. This option is significantly more expensive (~$1,600 for the aluminum stand and ~$1,000 for a new sump), but it gives me a fully open and sturdy base that supports long-term flexibility.

My Question:
Do you see any potential issues with either of these options? Which one would you choose if you were in my shoes?

 

[ScottJ]

Option 2 is a better idea, BUT trying to retrofit the existing stand around the new stand as a skin may not the best approach. I get it, trying to saveboth a nice piece of furniture and a couple bucks, but when you try to jury-rig something like that, it will always look like it was jury-rigged.

If you are going to spend that much money on a very good quality stand, go a little farther and skin it properly.

(Of course this advice comes from a guy who jury-rigs most everything because my ideas and desires are FAR larger than my disposable income. I'm very good at spending other peoples money )

 

[Rocks reef]

Both options seem quite feasible, however, if you aren't happy with the current height of the stand, I'd go option two. You will appreciate more room under the stand as well for the added equipment needed to maintain a reef.

 

[Rocks reef]

Option 2 is a better idea, BUT trying to retrofit the existing stand around the new stand as a skin may not the best approach. I get it, trying to saveboth a nice piece of furniture and a couple bucks, but when you try to jury-rig something like that, it will always look like it was jury-rigged.

If you are going to spend that much money on a very good quality stand, go a little farther and skin it properly.

(Of course this advice comes from a guy who jury-rigs most everything because my ideas and desires are FAR larger than my disposable income. I'm very good at spending other peoples money )

I agree with that and should have added that to my comment. It will be pretty easy to add removable panels to the metal stand using magnet backed panels.

 

[Diman1974]

Option 2 is a better idea, BUT trying to retrofit the existing stand around the new stand as a skin may not the best approach. I get it, trying to saveboth a nice piece of furniture and a couple bucks, but when you try to jury-rig something like that, it will always look like it was jury-rigged.

If you are going to spend that much money on a very good quality stand, go a little farther and skin it properly.

(Of course this advice comes from a guy who jury-rigs most everything because my ideas and desires are FAR larger than my disposable income. I'm very good at spending other peoples money )

I agree but in my opinion this hack (option 2) should be almost invisible to the naked eye and I will keep the same “furniture style” that will keep my second half happy
6” “gap at the bottom will give me more ventilation options and I will not need to drill the side/back panels

 

[Diman1974]

Both options seem quite feasible, however, if you aren't happy with the current height of the stand, I'd go option two. You will appreciate more room under the stand as well for the added equipment needed to maintain a reef.

On the other hand, the tank is 30” tall so raising it another 6” may put it too high for a comfortable access to the sandbed

 

[ScottJ]

Hey, like I said, I'm really, really good at spending other peoples moolah!

 

[bstodds15]

Both seem like solid options.

Retrofitting the existing cabinets shouldn't be that hard (depending how they're built). Probably will want some casters/leveling pads try and make everything look as seamless as possible.

 

[Rocks reef]

On the other hand, the tank is 30” tall so raising it another 6” may put it too high for a comfortable access to the sandbed

They make step stools for that!

 

[Diman1974]

They make step stools for that!

Really ?!?

 

[Rocks reef]

Sorry brother, I couldn't resist that one! I know what you mean though. Being 24" tall and sitting on a higher stand does make things like coral placement, maintenance, etc a bit more challenging. Having your arm in the tank up to your armpit gets old after a while.

 

[Diman1974]

Sorry brother, I couldn't resist that one! I know what you mean though. Being 24" tall and sitting on a higher stand does make things like coral placement, maintenance, etc a bit more challenging. Having your arm in the tank up to your armpit gets old after a while.

I know the drill. Take a look at my tank’s picture. The right side

 

[Rocks reef]

I know the drill. Take a look at my tank’s picture. The right side

I didn't see that before! That's exactly why I ordered my new tank 20" tall.

 

[Diman1974]

I didn't see that before! That's exactly why I ordered my new tank 20" tall.

Smart choice!

 

[Diman1974]

Here’s another budget-friendly idea: what if I accept the current height and structural limitations of the stand and repurpose my existing seamless sump (pictured below)?

I’m considering the following layout:

• Install the ClariSea SK5000 in the second chamber (the baffle tab),
• Place the Tunze 9430 skimmer in the third chamber,
• Use the fourth chamber for two return pumps — one for the main return and a smaller one for a basic manifold.

To handle a flow rate of at least 1,500-2,000 GPH, I’m thinking of replacing the existing ¾” flexible tubing (green tubing in the picture) between the second, third, and fourth chambers with 2” bulkheads/PVC pipes for appropriate flow capacity.

For ATO

• I plan to place the ATO sensor and the ATO water supply line in the skimmer chamber (third chamber), where the water level remains constant. This would also help maintain a consistent level in the fleece filter chamber upstream.

Do you see any potential issues with this plan, other than needing a separate container for the ATO reservoir?