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I would recommend against running UV with any type of copper. It will increase the toxicity.with copper power, I know I can run skimmer, how about uv light?
I know with cupramine you can’t, but what about copper power?
I would recommend against running UV with any type of copper. It will increase the toxicity.
As well as other medications, it can degrade them, things like antibiotics, prazi and metro etc. I wouldn't skim using these either.
Skimming during copper may be ok, it will remove copper, but only by the amount of water removed, if you are monitoring with a Hanna checker you should be able to compensate.
Ok that’s what I had thought. Measuring it with meter every couple days will tel me what to add, thru loss of absorption and skimming (if any with skimming)
Thank you
No problem, you are welcome.
I don't know how big of a QT you are talking or if you are talking a DT.
I don't skim on QTs. I just run HOBs with floss and a biofilter.
I don't use copper in DT either.
For a hypothetical example. My 200g DT, I only skim about a gallon a week off. So at the level of copper power I treat that would be equal to needing 1ml of copper to replace the gallon skimmed that was refilled with my ATO. If that makes sense.
My personal opinion is this:And one follow up:
Another lfs by me does indeed check their copper level daily every morning.
They run copper power at 1.5, however at times it does go to 1.45 and they add more.
Would you feel good that 1.45 was effective at killing velvet or ich?
Picked up some fish from this lfs, and these fish were in there approx 13 days.
Thanks
My personal opinion is this:
The only QT you can trust is your own. So I would still run them through copper knowing they stated they dropped below therapeutic. If they really only dropped to 1.45ppm then would it be safe... Maybe, but not safe enough for my liking.
What if they dropped to 1.0ppm? But said 1.45ppm.
A friend of mine that has an LFS runs cupramine at .25ppm always, if fish show spots raise to .5ppm. To then be lowered back down with his weekly WC.
It's a double edged sword. They have to keep fish alive to sell them. They could never do a full QT and sell fish at the same price as the store 2 miles down the road. So they do what they have to do. I don't like it, it's just the way it is. That is why I choose to QT my own fish my way.
I understand :( I have been following your other threads.Fair enough, it is a risk. They could be lying, however I’m at the stage where I don’t have inverts or coral, so if need be I can run copper in system and monitor.
I’m also at the point where
I’m willing to take calculated risks, without breaking out the calculator, I’ve lost a ton in quarantine, for reasons ranging fro possible immeasurable ammonia, to fish flat out stressing out on the reflections , or shutting down eating.
Fish that were in lfs weeks at a time eating fine, then in my prophylactic treatment , for possible bugs, wither away
I understand :( I have been following your other threads.
Best of luck this round!
I get it man, no hard feelings. You have to do what works best for you. QT isn't always easy, and trust me I have had my fair share of losses and mishaps in QT. I can't deny that. I just try to help people with what works for me to help them help their fish and enjoy the hobby.Thanks a lot man.
And in moments of my threads am I slamming anyone or criticizing their routine.
Just simply pointing out that it’s not always working, and for something to be of scientific value, it hasn’t to repeatable.
If formalin kill brook, it should do so all the time, if done correctly (identical procedure) every time. Same goes for ich.
Why does bio spira work in your tank, but not mine? (Perhaps your bottle was bought 3 weeks from the assembly line, in the fall, 59 degrees temp, where mine was in a truck across the country and hit 90 degrees, who knows)
My point is there seem to me too many variables to have something concrete.
For one example, buddy of. One bought a Red Sea reefer about two years ago, the largest one.
He has about 20’fish in there, and in two years only lost 2 , most likely bullying, in that span.
He does use a product in display called marine max and swears by it. Every water change, basically boost immune system
A very sound perspective, @HotRocks. I agree completely.
To put a different spin on the UV question...I would suggest getting a UV sterilizer (an large one) for your DT. Opinions vary, but IME it's an insurance policy. No QT protocol is absolutely bulletproof at preventing parasites from entering your QT 100%. If a parasite finds its way into your DT, a UV can be the difference between a manageable situation and a disaster. No, it will not eradicate parasites from your DT, no one could ever claim that. It's just an added protection. At the end of the day, we all want to ensure health of our fish. Why not take every feasible measure?
I agree, and last week put a 25 watt aria uv on my 50 gallon cube. Got about 200 gig running thru it.