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yes get some carbon in there run for 5 days ,just in case any toxins in water,rinse in ro water first,also noticed in second pic ,power strip,dried salt creep is conductor,fire hazard!!may want to move/mount upside down
maybe want to do icp test see if something in water we are not catching
Have you done a icp test where can I get it done or you think I got alot of test kits by hanna and salfinyes get some carbon in there run for 5 days ,just in case any toxins in water,rinse in ro water first,also noticed in second pic ,power strip,dried salt creep is conductor,fire hazard!!may want to move/mount upside down
maybe want to do icp test see if something in water we are not catching
I like that going to the the torch out that was a such a nice torchplease take pics in white light,
fear i am going to tell you take torch out
get that canister running ,rinse carbon in ro first ,carbon in can!! asap
icp ? not sure ? google?
we can save these coralsslow down and hurry up!!
Yes I do not sure if I did a right had to move the white box on the bottom of the rocks took all the sand out just left the front sanddo you have ph graph on apex?
thanks for the pick up..was falling asleep at last postHow long has your tank been running and how long has things like no3, po4 and alk been stable? You say Nitrates are 30 but after wc the Hanna checker says 2.99ppm. Stability is key with any reef aquaria. +1 on that power strip, get it out of there or mount it upside down to reduce salt creep and or splashing water. Just curious why you have MP60's in a 4' tank if your keeping LPS? Even dialed back, you could've saved a ton of money using a smaller power head.
What's in the 2 different reactors in Pic #21. Salinity? How were previous corals before this purchase? You can buy ICP test kit from just about any online vendor, sample water and mail them in. Instructions are in the kit. Get a booster pump for your rodi unit if it takes a long time to produce water. Are there chloramines being added from your town or cities water supply, if so run a chloramine filter as a replacement or addon for one of the carbon blocks.
Run carbon as stated above and don't add any more coral until your system becomes stable.
you did this last night???looks to me ph spiked same time as kh bump??am i reading this correct?Yes I do not sure if I did a right had to move the white box on the bottom of the rocks took all the sand out just left the front sand
I was tire of doing a water change every week my rodi system is slow I still need 30 gal more
The way I had the rocks before it was nice now it's disaster I just have one pump running till I get the water going I hope corals make it I put so much money on this tank more them 20k doesn't even look good
How long has your tank been running and how long has things like no3, po4 and alk been stable? You say Nitrates are 30 but after wc the Hanna checker says 2.99ppm. Stability is key with any reef aquaria. +1 on that power strip, get it out of there or mount it upside down to reduce salt creep and or splashing water. Just curious why you have MP60's in a 4' tank if your keeping LPS? Even dialed back, you could've saved a ton of money using a smaller power head.
What's in the 2 different reactors in Pic #21. Salinity? How were previous corals before this purchase? You can buy ICP test kit from just about any online vendor, sample water and mail them in. Instructions are in the kit. Get a booster pump for your rodi unit if it takes a long time to produce water. Are there chloramines being added from your town or cities water supply, if so run a chloramine filter as a replacement or addon for one of the carbon blocks.
Run carbon as stated above and don't add any more coral until your system becomes stable.
you did this last night???looks to me ph spiked same time as kh bump??am i reading this correct?