Corals dying - Algae growing.

[knarichj]

I am running an Eshopps 9.5 gal. bi-level nano tank. This is my first saltwater aquarium and have had running for about 1 year. I started with live rock and live sand with two clown fish. All of the corals I have glued on the top tier have died. Usually within a month or two. In the beginning I thought the corals were eating leftover fish pellet and other marine bio. I started adding “Marine Snow” 2 times per week about 3 months ago, and have replaced that with “Reef Chili” about 1 month ago. I have also addressed what appears to be hair algae twice in the last 3 months. I also lost a star fish and an anemone.

I do water changes weekly and sock filter changed 2x per week. I vacuum the sand, though this tends to cause the corals to close up for a day or two. My lights are programmable (in picture) and I monitor my water chemistry. You’ll see the former “stumps” of dead torches, especially on the upper tier. The two healthy ones pictured, are new additions and are only positioned unaffixed until I can see how they like the space.

I am looking for advice/instructions/opinions of why this algae continues to build and I continue losing corals. Ultimately, I would love to build out this reef tank with vibrant colored corals. I am pretty color blind, but have always been able to see the colors of saltwater fish and bright colored corals.

Thank you all in advance!

 

[formallydehyde]

The algae I am seeing mostly looks like dinoflagellates and/or cyanobacteria to me. The thicker mat looking stuff. Has that been there for a while or is it new?

Also what is the temperature in the top tier of the tank?

 

[Dragen Fiend]

You have a mixture of bubble aglae, dinos and cyano.

You seem to have a balancing issue with nutrients. Dinos look more prevalent, so your likely starving the corals.

I love my deskmate as well.

1. Test your nitrates/phos for baseline
2. I would change your flow nozzle with RCA. Flow is also key to prevent algae build up. Pick up the eshopps dual RCA flow. This way you can fix some dead spots.
3. Suck up all the dinos from the sand and rock work and do a water change.
4. Remove as much bubble algae as you can as well. (I use tweezers)
5. Feed the tank. You need to get some nutrients in the tank.
6. Skip water changes for the time being. Water changes are great, but if your exporting too much nutrients from the wc, its counter productive.
7. Wait a few weeks (no water changes) and test nitrates and phos.
8. Based off test, do a water change or if nutrients are still low, refrain from water change.

Just my 2 cents.

Also your light may be weak as well but not the main cause. I would be wary trying any acros.

 

[knarichj]

The algae I am seeing mostly looks like dinoflagellates and/or cyanobacteria to me. The thicker mat looking stuff. Has that been there for a while or is it new?

Also what is the temperature in the top tier of the tank?

The thicker Mat stuff is new. Vacuums up and is back in a week. Temperature is steady at 78 degrees.

 

[SonOfaGoat]

Vacuum your dinos daily just drain them into a filter sock. I use a 5mm micron sock, the water runs clean. Pour the water back into your tank. Clean your overflow sock every morning as well. This will help keep the dinos numbers in check while other organisms start to consume the nutrients.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

There is not enough flow in the tank. Also 2 clowns in a 9 gallon is overstocked, plus your adding coral foods, unlikely a 9 gallon AIO has sufficient filtration which is why you have algae - the import is greater than the export. I see no snails in your tank, that is the first line of defence against algae