Could anyone help me with a hospital tank set up please

[KevPool]

Hey folks

I'm in a pinch here and could really use some guidance.

My new Royal Gramma has ich the poor little guy. I am trying to set up a new hospital tank I have two tanks I have kicking around a 10 gal and a 30 gal. I've had some extra media bags in my sump for the last month or so in case I need to set up a tank in a pinch. Honestly I am flying blind here as I have never done this before I can use some water from my main setup which is about 210 gal so that should help the cycle and I will put a media bag from the sump in the hang over filter, but other then my bag of media what else is going to hold the beneficial bacteria since it is bare bottom and just a couple pvc pipes for him to hide in? I just am failing to understand what surface area can the bacteria hold onto in a hospital tank. actually any guidance here would be very highly appreciated. also do I add bottled bacteria to the tank to help it along I don't want to take too long to set this up but I also want to assure it is safe for him.

Thanks folk

 

[Quietman]

The media bag should be fine. You don't need any thing in a tank to support the surface needed for one fish, the pvc is for them to hide/stress. But it might take a bit to build up so frequent water changes are order of the day until the cycle is up and running - and perhaps after as you go through treatments.

 

[DaddyFish]

Transferring established media from your DT to the hospital tank helps with ammonia control, but you could also be transferring parasites with it. It's a bit of compromise between ammonia control and parasite population reduction.

IMO the best approach is to freshwater dip the affected fish and then go straight into a clean hospital tank. Dosing beneficial bacteria starter is a good step, as is using some Prime and frequent water changes to keep ammonia in check until the bb gets established.

Whatever you do, I highly recommend against transferring DT tank water. The bb you're hoping to transfer are not established in the water column, but rather on surfaces (glass, media etc.). You're much more likely to transfer parasites in the water column than bb that gets re-established.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Used tank water has almost no nitrifying bacteria in it, but your filter media will help. You should also have some Amquel or other ammonia remover on hand in case the ammonia spikes. Most people use a hang on back filter and put the media in there.
If your gramma has confirmed ich, be sure to get the copper level up to full dose with a good test kit on the first day.
Jay

 

[lapin]

if you have 2 tanks then maybe TTM will be a good option..
No need to cycle or worry about ammonia or meds

Tank Transfer Method (all versions)

The table and video below are meant to show/explain the differences between the 3 different versions of Tank Transfer Method. If you are completely unfamiliar with TTM, please read more detailed information found in the links below: Standard TTM Velvet TTM Hybrid TTM How to perform a H2O2...

humble.fish

 

[DaddyFish]

And don't run any UV in the hospital tank until after your bb gets established.

 

[RobertTheNurse]

I second (or third) not using DT water...why chance transferring disease from DT into QT. Also, any other fish in DT?

 

[KevPool]

I second (or third) not using DT water...why chance transferring disease from DT into QT. Also, any other fish in DT?

Yeah I have 6 other fish in the DT as well and a bunch of inverts and corals.

Almost 100% sure it is ich here is a pic of the little guy.

 

[KevPool]

Ok is this fish punking me lol. this morning before I left for work he looked like he rolled in a pile of glitter he was covered in tiny white spots head to tail. I get home after picking up a punch of stuff for the QT tank and he looks fine, I do see a couple small flecks on his tail that don't show in the pic but what the heck.

 

[KevPool]

here is a clearer shot

 

[Silent]

Ich goes through cycles and it could have dropped off now and getting ready to come back in greater numbers.

 

[DaddyFish]

There's a lot to the life cycle of Ich beyond the stage where it can be seen with the naked eye. In fact, you aren't seeing the parasite itself, only the effect of it's damage to the fish before it drops off and incubates. Think "Alien" from the movies.

 

[KevPool]

yeah I'm still going to treat him my local reef shop is going to lend me a trap I've been trying to catch him in a net with no luck

 

[KevPool]

do you think I should try and catch all my fish and treat them all? I have 2 chromies 2 clowns 2 firefish a dartfish and a blenny.

 

[Peter_in_the_city]

do you think I should try and catch all my fish and treat them all? I have 2 chromies 2 clowns 2 firefish a dartfish and a blenny.

Ich sucks. I'm sorry to say but if that's what you expect I'd take treat them. an ammonia alert patch is going to be great. I like making lids from light diffuser and if your fish are small maybe zip tie some screening to the light diffuser.

 

[KevPool]

wow the more you read on this the more my head spins one article I just read said that my tank should stay fishless for 5 months. wow that is a long time.... so I think if I am going to treat all the fish I best get both tanks set up and going. most posts I read are 6 - 8 weeks but honestly I don't want to deal with this twice and if one has it then it is already in my water column I should deal with it accordingly so I guess I best get set up for some long term housing for the fish sigh....

 

[Silent]

76 days

 

[Peter_in_the_city]

wow the more you read on this the more my head spins one article I just read said that my tank should stay fishless for 5 months. wow that is a long time.... so I think if I am going to treat all the fish I best get both tanks set up and going. most posts I read are 6 - 8 weeks but honestly I don't want to deal with this twice and if one has it then it is already in my water column I should deal with it accordingly so I guess I best get set up for some long term housing for the fish sigh....

It isn't fun. But I think it's safe to say we have almost all been here at some point. Sponge filters and air pumps are cheapest. After that PVC elbows from a hardware store and tubes are good because it shouldn't absorb any of the chemicals. Your stock is actually really easy to quarantine. The toughest are fish that need a sand bed or lot's of space (tangs, sand sifters, jawfish, etc.) Since you're going to have at least a few fish in each tank an ammonia alert badge is the safest bet and almost fool proof. I'd test for ammonia regularly if you don't use one. Quickstart or seeded media is a plus (good thing you have some!) Last is getting or borrowing a temperature controller for your aquarium for each tank. I think this is about 100$ but it is still cheaper than new fish.

 

[Peter_in_the_city]

I actually found this temp controller that could hypothetically let you control two heaters for the cost of one controller.
If you're going to dose copper at therapeutic levels I would recommend avoiding api test kits.

 

[RobertTheNurse]

Ammonia alert did NOT alert me for a spike in ammonia. Test daily. And I second NO API.