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Current Orbit LED

Glass Algae

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Anyone have any reccomendations for cycle percentages for my light?

I plan on throwing a toadstool in my tank as first coral and I'm aware my light isn't the greatest. I was led astray by big Al's video for the Fluval and jumped the gun and bought it without watching the next vid where he said the orbit light actually wasn't good for anemone despite saying it was in the first vid :/

I plan to only keep softies, leather, maybe some xenia for now just cause of the light restrictions.

I know I can program the setting for the individual time cycles. Anyone got any good suggestions for this noob?
 
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Ron Reefman

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How deep is your tank?

In 12" or 16" deep tanks this light is OK... weak, but OK.

I'd set blue channels at 100% and white at something between 50% and 80% (high white because this fixture needs all the help it can get in the area of PAR.
 

fresco194

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I ran the ic pro's for about 2 years up until a month ago. I ran at 100% on the blue and 30% on white 0 on green and red on a 21" tall bow front. I had a anemone die under these lights and toadstool that has never grown bigger than a silver dollar in a year and a half. My hammer, frogspawn, duncan and candy cane grew very slow. Corals will live but not thrive very well. I now run x2 AI Primes.
 

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I fell for the same spiel and "upgraded" to the Current Orbit. The light doesn't seem even as bright as the stock hood that came with the Fluval Evo. It's taking my corals a looong time to get used to the new lighting (mostly zoas and mushrooms). I'm waiting on my Seneye to come in so I can actually check the PAR levels. I set my lighting schedule to a video I found on YouTube and I'm just going to leave it there and see what it does. Also, I had to do a lot of tweaking to get the timings right so it wasn't still on in the wee hours of the morning.

Sunrise: Blue 76%, White 0%, Red 74%, Green 9%
Daylight: Blue 100%, White 65%, Red 75%, Green 29%
Sunset: Blue 75%, White 0%, Red 74%, Green 9%
Moonlight: Blue 10%, all others at 0%

I'm open to suggestions on changing these %s if anyone has any advice.
 

boacvh

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I had the orbit marine pro and in my experience it was more than enough for softies and LPS. My zoas and finger leather grew like crazy with these.
+1 on full blues and then high 50-80 whites. RG to your liking. (although most people recommended me to keep RG low)
 
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Glass Algae

Glass Algae

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How deep is your tank?

In 12" or 16" deep tanks this light is OK... weak, but OK.

I'd set blue channels at 100% and white at something between 50% and 80% (high white because this fixture needs all the help it can get in the area of PAR.
I have a Fluval 13. 5 not sure off the top of my head what the depth of the tank is.

I ran the ic pro's for about 2 years up until a month ago. I ran at 100% on the blue and 30% on white 0 on green and red on a 21" tall bow front. I had a anemone die under these lights and toadstool that has never grown bigger than a silver dollar in a year and a half. My hammer, frogspawn, duncan and candy cane grew very slow. Corals will live but not thrive very well. I now run x2 AI Primes.
Hope this regular not pro unit can at least keep me having a toadstool and some zoas alive till I can get a prime :/

I fell for the same spiel and "upgraded" to the Current Orbit. The light doesn't seem even as bright as the stock hood that came with the Fluval Evo. It's taking my corals a looong time to get used to the new lighting (mostly zoas and mushrooms). I'm waiting on my Seneye to come in so I can actually check the PAR levels. I set my lighting schedule to a video I found on YouTube and I'm just going to leave it there and see what it does. Also, I had to do a lot of tweaking to get the timings right so it wasn't still on in the wee hours of the morning.

Sunrise: Blue 76%, White 0%, Red 74%, Green 9%
Daylight: Blue 100%, White 65%, Red 75%, Green 29%
Sunset: Blue 75%, White 0%, Red 74%, Green 9%
Moonlight: Blue 10%, all others at 0%

I'm open to suggestions on changing these %s if anyone has any advice.
Yeah big Al's will never get another watched video from me again that's for sure.

Says it hosts a nem then next vid goes oh since I want a nem I need to upgrade lights. I could've hit that bas****. If I saw him in person I'd Def tell him to delete that video cause it's a scam. Thankfully his trash site didn't get any money from me. I went MDepot.

I had the orbit marine pro and in my experience it was more than enough for softies and LPS. My zoas and finger leather grew like crazy with these.
+1 on full blues and then high 50-80 whites. RG to your liking. (although most people recommended me to keep RG low)
I hope this is the case I don't think mine is the pro. I believe I have the regular unit :/
 
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Glass Algae

Glass Algae

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I had a set of the pros I liked them they just weren't bright..... but I loved the way they looked very pretty lights
It is a very crisp light I will give it that. The stock hood was very hot white light this light brings in a HD look to the rock. I can see how it's not powerful though. Very upset with big Al's.
 

01xp

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I ended up getting a reefbreeder photon v2 to replace my currents I couldn't be happier. And I also fell into a trap looked up best reef light on Google and those come up
 
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Glass Algae

Glass Algae

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I ended up getting a reefbreeder photon v2 to replace my currents I couldn't be happier. And I also fell into a trap looked up best reef light on Google and those come up
Plan on getting a bigger cube in my next apt next year so I wanna turn my curre t Fluval into a nem tank. I didn't think these currents would be useless for the price ‍
 

f.christian

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Anyone have any reccomendations for cycle percentages for my light?

I plan on throwing a toadstool in my tank as first coral and I'm aware my light isn't the greatest. I was led astray by big Al's video for the Fluval and jumped the gun and bought it without watching the next vid where he said the orbit light actually wasn't good for anemone despite saying it was in the first vid :/

I plan to only keep softies, leather, maybe some xenia for now just cause of the light restrictions.

I know I can program the setting for the individual time cycles. Anyone got any good suggestions for this noob?

Honestly I had the same exact light If you want the best results buy a cheap T5 light that fits your tank and run it with the "Current light" you can get it on craigslist or let it doesn't need to be anything great but it will help make sure all your corals are way happier and the colors will pop much better I promise you. its a cheap way to make your corals happier and grow faster.
 
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Glass Algae

Glass Algae

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Honestly I had the same exact light If you want the best results buy a cheap T5 light that fits your tank and run it with the "Current light" you can get it on craigslist or let it doesn't need to be anything great but it will help make sure all your corals are way happier and the colors will pop much better I promise you. its a cheap way to make your corals happier and grow faster.
Ooo see now that's a good response! I use a Fluval 13.5 and I believe I have the 18 inch orbit. Would I have to buy a hood and hang the t5? Any Pic examples? I'm a disabled Vet lots of head injuries lol I learn better with pictures
 

f.christian

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Thats much smaller than what I had but the concept works the same you don't need a hood or anything like that just one that can attach over the top with a stand works just fine ill attach a picture of my old set up.
I ran atinic lighting to give it a better blue contrast and support hardier corals
Hopefully this helps
IMG_0436.jpeg
 

Dw79

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I have 2 IC Pro's on my 46 bowfront. I keep them directly on top of the tank to keep them as close to my coral as possible. (Softies and LPS all growing great)
I have the blues at 100%, whites at 30% and both red and green are 15% for 9 hours between sunrise and sunset
 
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Fishurama

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I run current orbits, and when @Starkrost gets his par meter let us know. One thing about Current compared to others is they IMO give PAR numbers on the safer(lower) side where as other companies give the max, under all the "perfect" conditions. Now that being said, these lights still aren't strong, but the par numbers are off. For example, I have a goniopora on the sand bed in my 120, 24 inches tall, i also have current orbit pros, the old ones, not even the new ones which are stronger, and my goni, a "high light coral" grows like a weed. It's so big my dang 9 inch sailfin can hide behind it, while my clown fish is already hosting it(making it smaller)
These lights work fine, the sunrise/sunset feature is nice, i use the pre-programed schedules. I think im on 1 or 3. I use 100 percent whites and i forgot the blues percentage, i think it's like 30-40 percent(but thats more for personal taste in color) I can't tell you the ramp down/up since it's auto.
My sed bed is also so clean, the light reflects off the sand bed making it so bright it looks new. These lights will grow anything you want, just keep SPS near the top if you do go SPS.
big boy and goniopora.jpg

 
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samnaz

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Those lights aren’t useless. Anyone who tells you you can’t grow softies and some LPS with current marine orbits is doing something else wrong. Run blues 100%, whites 30-50% to curb algae. Don’t know about red or green, mine only had blue and white.
 
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Glass Algae

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Those lights aren’t useless. Anyone who tells you you can’t grow softies and some LPS with current marine orbits is doing something else wrong. Run blues 100%, whites 30-50% to curb algae. Don’t know about red or green, mine only had blue and white.

Thank you for the hope. I'm obviously gonna give it a good try. Going to grab a toadstool here soon.

Now if I can just get these dang presets to save this loop is confusing and the instructions arnt great
 
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Glass Algae

Glass Algae

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I run current orbits, and when @Starkrost gets his par meter let us know. One thing about Current compared to others is they IMO give PAR numbers on the safer(lower) side where as other companies give the max, under all the "perfect" conditions. Now that being said, these lights still aren't strong, but the par numbers are off. For example, I have a goniopora on the sand bed in my 120, 24 inches tall, i also have current orbit pros, the old ones, not even the new ones which are stronger, and my goni, a "high light coral" grows like a weed. It's so big my dang 9 inch sailfin can hide behind it, while my clown fish is already hosting it(making it smaller)
These lights work fine, the sunrise/sunset feature is nice, i use the pre-programed schedules. I think im on 1 or 3. I use 100 percent whites and i forgot the blues percentage, i think it's like 30-40 percent(but thats more for personal taste in color) I can't tell you the ramp down/up since it's auto.
My sed bed is also so clean, the light reflects off the sand bed making it so bright it looks new. These lights will grow anything you want, just keep SPS near the top if you do go SPS.
big boy and goniopora.jpg

Oh you reccomend 100 percent whites and lower blues? Is that for your sun up phase?

I slowly brought my lights up a half an hour a week and this week is 6 hours twice a day so now I'm on 12 hours continuous.

I don't wanna over drench light.

Also can't get the darn presets on phases to save or get the program to turn on the tank or off.

Been running it today at a steady 40% whites 100 percent blues 15 red and green.

Have some algae but I was using the stock Fluval hood for a while so I'm already noticing the algae going away.

20200806_185527.jpg
 

Fishurama

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Oh you reccomend 100 percent whites and lower blues? Is that for your sun up phase?

I slowly brought my lights up a half an hour a week and this week is 6 hours twice a day so now I'm on 12 hours continuous.

I don't wanna over drench light.

Also can't get the darn presets on phases to save or get the program to turn on the tank or off.

Been running it today at a steady 40% whites 100 percent blues 15 red and green.

Have some algae but I was using the stock Fluval hood for a while so I'm already noticing the algae going away.

20200806_185527.jpg
Yes that is my sun up phase. If I remember correctly it uses half watt LED diodes which are weak,hence why i use 100 percent whites. Normal black boxes/more expensive lights are generally 2-3 watts each LED which allows for more light at deeper depths where as the weaker LEDs struggle more at deeper depths.
I can't help you with the loop settings since i have the older model, i can't even control green and reds and I don't think it even has green LEDs LOL.
The older remote is so much easier but it does so much less. My presets are labeled 1,2,3,4. 1 and 3 are more light, 2 and 4 are for coral acclimation. M1 is my personal settings or i can make it a show light for best viewing colors to show off to friends.

orbit pro remote.jpg
 
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