Cycle question

G Santana

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I have a 130 gal tank with a 30 gal long sump with about 20 gal.
I recently added two 32 oz Fritz Zyme, pulled the socks and skimmer per instruction.
I added two 3"plus Tangs and waited.
After the 4 days I added the sock and skimmer and within two days the tank cleared up. It skimmed two full cups of what could only be the Fritz.

Now I have been testing ammonia daily and nothing. No reading whatsoever.
I have a sheet of Nori in the tank 24/7 and I alternate feeding spirulina mysis and pellets.

It's been more than a week and no reading of ammonia. I have never cycled like this and I'm curious if the tank volume is so great that ammonia might not be a problem for two fish.

The fish are gaining weight and overall pretty happy. When I got the purple tang he was very thin, now he's plumped up in short order.

Any input is greatly appreciated
20201227_154011.jpg
 

Reef.

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You are unlikely to see ammonia as the bacteria you added should be breaking it down as soon as it is produced.

Just stock slowly so the bacteria can keep up with the amount of fish.
 
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G Santana

G Santana

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You are unlikely to see ammonia as the bacteria you added should be breaking it down as soon as it is produced.

Just stock slowly so the bacteria can keep up with the amount of fish.
Yes, my goal was 1 month before adding anything else.
 
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G Santana

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This is the first time I read someone using a pair of Tang to cycle. Glad that it works out for you.
What I didn't want was to cycle with fish that I ultimately did not want to keep.
I knew it was risky but if the tank ammonia went out of control, I would have returned the fish to the LFS until I got things in hand, but a few weeks in, all is well.
 
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G Santana

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wise, I believe bare bottoms can have a tough 1st year, then plain sailing afterwards (well compared to the first year anyway ;) .)
I had problems years ago with deep sand bed, but all that went away when I went bare bottom. That was my biggest dilemma, sand or not. I decided that It worked before let me roll the dice.

Biggest difference this time, no live rock to start off, that intimidated me a bit.
 

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I had problems years ago with deep sand bed, but all that went away when I went bare bottom. That was my biggest dilemma, sand or not. I decided that I worked before let me roll the dice.

To be fair, deep sand beds are tough, if you want sand it doesn’t have to be deep.

I would go for what you prefer the look of, you’ll be able to make either work, just stay away from those DSB those things are scary.
 
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G Santana

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To be fair, deep sand beds are tough, if you want sand it doesn’t have to be deep.

I would go for what you prefer the look of, you’ll be able to make either work, just stay away from those DSB those things are scary.
I do like the look of sand, but BB gave me success and since I've been away from the hobby so long, I stuck to what i knew worked for me.
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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Your tank is fully cycled it needs nothing.

heres why:



already covered in the rule changes for cycling 2020, your type of cycle. This is how it worked for you: per Dr Reefs thread fritz bac adhered to surfaces in 48 hours you are way past that


once a reef tank can endure a full water change and not uncycle, it’s cycled. Your fish can’t live in a system that doesn’t control nh3, and per updated rules no reefs ever posted only had partial control; its an all or nothing situation.

your pics are of clear water, massive attachment points from rocks and any filters, time in excess of what’s needed for the product used, and all biological lifeforms in unison.

the dilution of your tank plus the bottle bac easily and without trial carried your starting bioload, and there is no cycling risk. The risk is cryptocarion, not nh3.

Your skimmer has removed suspended extras by now, your surface area is doing the work because we've never seen any degree of live rock be insufficient (source, every bare bottom tank running)
 
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brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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This post will only get fun when an ammonia test kit says to worry, but not a thing in the tank says that as days go by and animals act normal. Burnt fish cannot feed nor swim nor breathe correctly. Forum posters will not disavow a test reading under any circumstance, a showdown looms heh

Buy nothing react to nothing other than visual cues in the tank. Ammonia noncontrol is better gauged by visual cues than any color kit that's 100% certain. Your inclination was accurate: they act fine because what you did is ok, our bottle bac options are this good.


Would you say Ikes tank here pushed the boundary about ten times farther in speed and rule breaking :)

these things keep working out because the rules have changed for reef cycling.
 
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G Santana

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This post will only get fun when an ammonia test kit says to worry, but not a thing in the tank says that as days go by and animals act normal. Burnt fish cannot feed nor swim nor breathe correctly. Forum posters will not disavow a test reading under any circumstance, a showdown looms heh

Buy nothing react to nothing other than visual cues in the tank. Ammonia noncontrol is better gauged by visual cues than any color kit that's 100% certain. Your inclination was accurate: they act fine because what you did is ok, our bottle bac options are this good.


Would you say Ikes tank here pushed the boundary about ten times farther in speed and rule breaking :)

these things keep working out because the rules have changed for reef cycling.
Thanks for the reply and reassurance!!!
 
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