Cycling an Aquarium

[dowsetts101]

I wouldn’t add more ammonia unless you plan on adding a large amount of fish at once. With nitrates that high your system should be fine. I would bring your NO3 below 50ppm before adding anything.

Thanks Brew. I must admit I was thinking that you’d suggest a water change and then do another ammonia dose. I thought that doing the 24 hour/2-0ppm Test was a given?

I’m not planning on stocking quickly...couple of a Chromis to start and then slowly add some more after QT.

 

[Brew12]

Thanks Brew. I must admit I was thinking that you’d suggest a water change and then do another ammonia dose. I thought that doing the 24 hour/2-0ppm Test was a given?

I’m not planning on stocking quickly...couple of a Chromis to start and then slowly add some more after QT.

I'm not a big fan of water changes after a cycle unless the nitrates are high. I'd probably do on if they are 30ppm+ but don't feel it is necessary unless they are 50ppm+.

Had you only added ammonia once and watched it go down I would have recommended another test. The fact you were able to add 1ppm daily without a buildup is adding and processing much more total ammonia than a 1ppm test followed by a 2ppm test.

Also, since you are planning on adding a blue tang, I made the assumption your tank is on the larger side. Unless the plan is to quickly stock, a large tank is much more forgiving when it comes to ammonia than a smaller one. If a larger tank can process 1ppm of ammonia in a day or so, it is fine to start adding fish.

 

[Ahbaloch]

2 Months

Had an ammonia spike when i added rocks i ,

Now ammonia is zero

And nitrite and nitrate are undetectable.

Is my tank cycled? Bcuz i cant raise my nitrate

 

[Brew12]

2 Months

Had an ammonia spike when i added rocks i ,

Now ammonia is zero

And nitrite and nitrate are undetectable.

Is my tank cycled? Bcuz i cant raise my nitrate

Yup, you can start slowly adding fish at this point.

 

[LeonThePeon]

I'm on day 23 of my attempt to fishless cycle a new coral QT. I've been using ammonium chloride for an ammonia source. I also used Dr. Tim's One and Only for bacteria. Got about 40lbs of live sand and some Fluval BioMax media.

Been keeping ammonia at 2ppm from the beginning till Memorial Day (2 days ago)

On week 2 (last week) - I had a nitrite spike to 2-5ppm (can't really tell the difference between the colors on the test kit).

This week - the ammonia has gone down to near 0 (0-0.50ppm) - but nitrite is still high at 2-5ppm.

Question - do I still feed ammonia while nitrite is still high? I'm a bit confused by Dr. Tim's instructions:

"Continue measuring ammonia and nitrite every 2 or 3 days until you start to see some nitrite. This is a sign that the ammonia-oxidizing bacteria are starting to work. Add half the initial amount of ammonia you added to the water on day 1.

Continue measuring ammonia and nitrite every 2 or 3 days. Around day 9 to 12, the ammonia will probably be below 1mg/L maybe even 0, but nitrite will be present. Nitrite does not spike until somewhere between days 14-20. You want to be careful adding more ammonia because you do not want the nitrite-nitrogen over 5mg/L, as this will start to poison the nitrite-oxidizing bacteria. Add a little ammonia every few days (1/4 dose) making sure the nitrite does not go above 5mg/L."

I must be reading something wrong cause I feel like there's a simple answer: A) Do I want to stop adding ammonia and give the nitrite-oxidizing bacteria a chance to work it's workload and not risk "poison[ing] the nitrite-oxidizing bacteria? or B) Do I keep adding a little ammonia to keep the ammonia oxidizing bacteria working?

Thanks

 

[Brew12]

I'm on day 23 of my attempt to fishless cycle a new coral QT. I've been using ammonium chloride for an ammonia source. I also used Dr. Tim's One and Only for bacteria. Got about 40lbs of live sand and some Fluval BioMax media.

Been keeping ammonia at 2ppm from the beginning till Memorial Day (2 days ago)

On week 2 (last week) - I had a nitrite spike to 2-5ppm (can't really tell the difference between the colors on the test kit).

This week - the ammonia has gone down to near 0 (0-0.50ppm) - but nitrite is still high at 2-5ppm.

Question - do I still feed ammonia while nitrite is still high? I'm a bit confused by Dr. Tim's instructions:

"Continue measuring ammonia and nitrite every 2 or 3 days until you start to see some nitrite. This is a sign that the ammonia-oxidizing bacteria are starting to work. Add half the initial amount of ammonia you added to the water on day 1.

Continue measuring ammonia and nitrite every 2 or 3 days. Around day 9 to 12, the ammonia will probably be below 1mg/L maybe even 0, but nitrite will be present. Nitrite does not spike until somewhere between days 14-20. You want to be careful adding more ammonia because you do not want the nitrite-nitrogen over 5mg/L, as this will start to poison the nitrite-oxidizing bacteria. Add a little ammonia every few days (1/4 dose) making sure the nitrite does not go above 5mg/L."

I must be reading something wrong cause I feel like there's a simple answer: A) Do I want to stop adding ammonia and give the nitrite-oxidizing bacteria a chance to work it's workload and not risk "poison[ing] the nitrite-oxidizing bacteria? or B) Do I keep adding a little ammonia to keep the ammonia oxidizing bacteria working?

Thanks

Personally, I would wait for the nitrite to drop down. I don't see any reason to add that much ammonia unless you want to stock your tank heavy right off the bat.

 

[captan42]

New guy here and newbie to the saltwater world. Great site and this thread has some awesome info!

I setup a 30gal breeder tank 9 days ago. Used liverock from the LFS and caribsea bed. Have had a light on for 10-12 hours a day since day 1. I was testing using strips from the LFS and saw 0 ammonia, nitrite, nitrate the whole time.

I didn’t trust those strips so I just got the Red Sea master test kit (very nice kit!) it also is telling me 0 across all. PH is 8.2 but I just got the kit today and this was the first test kit I can somewhat trust.

About 3 days ago I think I got a diatom bloom (brown substance on the rock and sand bed). This morning I am seeing tiny life swimming around against the glass. Looks like copepods? Just ordered ammonium chloride to see how fast ammonia drops.

I need to add more live rock as I believe I am about 10pds shy. I will be getting the same from the LFS. Will this reset the cycle? I would like to add a CuC in another week or so.

 

[lapin]

I need to add more live rock. I will be getting the same from the LFS. Will this reset the cycle?

Not if its live rock and you keep it wet on the way home.

 

[captan42]

Added another 10pds it was wet from the LFS and only out of water to epoxy and add a rod to hold the 2 large pieces together. Maybe an hour out of water if that. Still ok?

 

[lapin]

Yes it is fine. You wont see any die off at all.

 

[Brew12]

Maybe an hour out of water if that. Still ok?

Yes it is fine. You wont see any die off at all.

+1 on this.

The only time rock being out of the water for a few hours is a problem is if it is covered with sponges or other delicate marine life. Then it can cause an ammonia spike from that life dying off. For the typical live rock you get from an LFS it shouldn't be a problem and the bacteria won't be harmed if the rock stays damp.

 

[FindingNem0]

Hey

Just recently jumped over to saltwater. I have an 120L/30Gallon tank, how much dry rock do I need for the bacteria and also could I put the live rock down in the sump? And if I did get a live rock from a LFS and put it in my in sump how long would the cycle take roughly?

Sorry for the stupid questions.

 

[Brew12]

Hey

Just recently jumped over to saltwater. I have an 120L/30Gallon tank, how much dry rock do I need for the bacteria and also could I put the live rock down in the sump? And if I did get a live rock from a LFS and put it in my in sump how long would the cycle take roughly?

Sorry for the stupid questions.

Welcome to the saltwater side, and to Reef2Reef!

Unless you want to heavily stock and feed your tank, you could get away with as little as 10 pounds although I would probably do 20. And yes, if you want you can put that rock in the sump to help with filtration.

If you got good 10 pounds of live rock from your LFS your tank shouldn't need to cycle at all. I would still add some ammonia to test it to make sure it is good, but you should be fine. Otherwise, you can add a bottle of BioSpira or similar product and your cycle could be done in as little as a week.

Personally, I wouldn't add fish in under a week of setting up a system in most cases (umm... don't read my build thread :oops:) since it does take time for rocks/sand/chemistry to stabilize. You will also need to get an idea of how much evaporation your tank has and how you will handle it. Not to mention learning how to dial in a skimmer....

Hope that helps!

 

[lapin]

I agree. Extra rock never hurts and in a sump is the perfect choice. You can always move some of it to the DT, if you find the DT does not have enough places for fishes to hide.

 

[MSOEME2009]

Any opinion on this:

Week 7 of new tank; process 2 ppm ammonia no problem in 24 hours. Nitrite takes about 48. Nitrate holds between 5-10 PPM because of healthy and successful chaeto fuge running for about 5 weeks. I ghost feed every other day or so when I'm not going to do an ammonia test to keep nutrients coming in for the chaeto.

I'd like to order some pods for the tank but don't want a 2 PPM test to kill them off (is another 2 PPM test needed?)

No need for CUC because the growth on the rocks is small.

Feel free to check my build thread with some pictures.

 

[Brew12]

Any opinion on this:

Week 7 of new tank; process 2 ppm ammonia no problem in 24 hours. Nitrite takes about 48. Nitrate holds between 5-10 PPM because of healthy and successful chaeto fuge running for about 5 weeks. I ghost feed every other day or so when I'm not going to do an ammonia test to keep nutrients coming in for the chaeto.

I'd like to order some pods for the tank but don't want a 2 PPM test to kill them off (is another 2 PPM test needed?)

No need for CUC because the growth on the rocks is small.

Feel free to check my build thread with some pictures.

If you are running a chaeto fuge you can start adding fish. Low levels of nitrites won't hurt saltwater fish. The chaeto will absorb ammonia directly from the water. Ordering pods would be fine and I don't feel you would accomplish anything with another ammonia test other than prove that macro algae does consume ammonia.

 

[MSOEME2009]

Thanks! Puts some pep in my step! Here I come @AlgaeBarn

 

[NoWaiAma]

Ammonia spike. Nitrate. Nitrite reading. Ammonia dropping. Do I just observe at this point ? I’ve read stickies. Just want to make sure I’m current.

 

[Brew12]

Ammonia spike. Nitrate. Nitrite reading. Ammonia dropping. Do I just observe at this point ? I’ve read stickies. Just want to make sure I’m current.

Lots of different ways to do it and everyone seems to have their preference. I like to wait for the ammonia spike to drop while I observe.

Some people like continuously adding ammonia during the process but I feel that unnecessarily adds nitrates.

 

[Rivus]

Is my cycle stuck or am I getting a bad indication? Ammonia is 0, Nitrates 0 but nitrites are off scale and don't really match the Red Sea color chart, more orangey red than dark purple. Dosed with 2ppm Ammonium 48 hrs ago. Using TLC Optimizer.
10 gal QT, HOB, powerhead w/foam filter, a few pieces of left over dry rock, no lights. 6 wks in DT has cycled fine in that time.