This looks like it will be an amazing aquarium! Though the models are excellent and look nice, I am really looking forward to the actual build.Here’s some pics with the doors on.
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This looks like it will be an amazing aquarium! Though the models are excellent and look nice, I am really looking forward to the actual build.Here’s some pics with the doors on.
Oh man, you and me both.This looks like it will be an amazing aquarium! Though the models are excellent and look nice, I am really looking forward to the actual build.
Coming from someone with a build that is about the same size, I find your input very valuable. I’ve never been one to push 10x turnover rate through the sump. I’ve typically thought a range of 2x to 5x is a good range to shoot for (a little more than your 1x to 3x recommendation but still pretty close). I came to the 3000 gph rate (6x turnover) since the recommendation from the UV manufacturer was between 2700-3600 gph for algae control. My original plan was to use two return pumps and two UV sterilizers, like you recommend, but decided I’ll have to be fine with one of each based on cost and available space (those UV units are huge).
I do plan on having tangs; I’ve had them in the past and never run UV before without issue.
Now to go read your whole build thread.
For my overflow, I’m planning on having a notch cut out of the top edge of the glass and then have a plastic weir that fits inside of the notch.
I know this isn’t the “normal” way this is done but I don’t have a problem trying things differently if it makes sense.
For the overflow box I’m planning to use glass. I like the idea of being able to see what’s going on in it. I know over time it will likely get algae and other such things growing in it but it will look good to begin with. I’ll be doing a bean animal with 2” plumbing. I had originally planned for 1-1/2” and may go back to that for the siphon and trickle drains but will most likely keep the 2” for the emergency drain. If you guys have any input on this I’d like to hear it. My last tank had a durso so this will be my first bean animal so if something doesn’t look right, let me know.
The grey box on the siphon drain is a gate valve.
There is a door that will cover this area and part of the glass will be painted black so that when it’s closed all of it will be concealed. What I haven’t quite figured out yet is the best way to paint it. If there was no overflow then I could paint it black with nearly any kind of black paint and call it a day but since the water will be flowing down into the overflow box and be in contact with it I need to do something. What I think I’ll do is silicone the glass overflow box to the glass wall with black silicone first so that it will have the best bond. Then I’ll paint it with whatever black paint best matches the silicone and then coat over the paint on the inside with epoxy so that the water doesn’t come in direct contact with the paint. I hope this makes sense. If someone has a better idea for how to accomplish this I welcome it.
1) You’re right, the ap700’s definitely can be on a “regular” power strip. I do like the the eb832 functionality of monitoring the wattage used by each device even if I’m not using the apex to turn on/off.1. You don't really need to have the AP700s on an EB832. They will be controlled separately so it's just wasting an on/off outlet.
2. Same thing on the DOS - why do you need that connected to a power outlet on the EB832? You could use a 1Link cable and save the power outlet.
3. You can put all the Gyres on one outlet if you want -- unless you really want to be able to control the *power* of them independently - but again - you may not need these plugged into an EB832.
Keeping the overall wattage amount is helpful, but I'd only plug in things that you need smart control over. You want to be able to shut down the Calcium Reactor automatically, you'll want to have heaters turn off if the tank gets too hot, etc. etc. -- but some of the others just need power.
That’s correct, I’m trying to block the view of the plumbing and overflow box from the DT. Most of the time the back of the tank is just painted black (for the same reason) but in my case the overflow box is attached directly to the glass of the tank so the water in the overflow box will be in direct contact with black paint. That’s why I think it would be best to coat the paint with epoxy.If I'm understanding this right, you're trying to conceal the overflow box and plumbing to not be viewable through the aquarium end?
If so, why not use black glass instead of clear for that end of the tank? Will save you painting the glass and prevent chemicals in the paint leaching into the water in the overflow box.
Nice build plan! Looking forward to your build.
Hows the tank coming along? Are you doing your own cabinetry?So, I have a vertex alpha 170 skimmer that I used on my previous 120 gallon tank. It got to the point that my refugium was doing a better job of nutrient export than my skimmer. So I tapered back it’s run time and kept an eye on the po4 and no3 as well as the pH and couldn’t see a difference. So I took it out completely and things ran great without it.
As I plan for this system, it’s about 6 times the volume but I’m planning on using that same skimmer and seeing if it can keep up. Just like the last system, I don’t plan on doing water changes and I plan on having a good sized refugium. Filtration-wise, the only thing I’m planning on doing differently is to add the UV.
Ugh, I wish it was going faster. The next steps are ones where there’s no going back. Up to this point if I decided not to move forward I’d just be out some cash. I need to cut open the wall where this is going to verify that there’s nothing unpredicted. Worst case is that the wall is load bearing. I don’t see how it could be but stranger things have happened.Hows the tank coming along? Are you doing your own cabinetry?
I think your going to want to use the skimmer since the Phosphates your test kits measure are organic or inorganic, (can't rem which one), and the ones the protein skimmer removes is the ones you cant test for. Can't hurt to use it all its natural and hard to mess up.