Diatoms

reeferfoxx

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Once gfo is removed you need to increase nutrients. Dosing po4 and No3 should be done depending on levels. Po4 is .1 and No3 5-10 ppm. ID the species of Dino will help with treatment methods. Uv starilizer should be used in display tank. Granulated activated carbon is a must run in a dino tank. Carbon dosing needs to be stopped. Hope this helps. Further question direct them to mcarrol Dino thread stickied to the algea forum.
I think he ID'd it as Ostreopsis. This is one dino you dont want p'd off.
 

Brew12

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I wonder why they chose one negatively charged amino as opposed to any at all?

None the less, I still stand my ground that once gfo and vibrant are off line, dinos will return. We see it all the time on the major dino thread.
Wasn't disagreeing at all, just clarifying what Vibrant is.
 

reeferfoxx

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I believe one of the easier ones to deal with. I may be wrong
It is. Its one of the more delicate ones next to amphidinium but Ostri can go epiphytic. So it's best to build predators, run UV, and maintain water quality. When Ostri get mad, they can reduce O2 levels so much so that fish and other livestock will suffocate.
 
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Bob Lauson

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I have stopped the GFO and will be measuring my phosphates to see if normal feeding is sufficient to have the phosphate start to register. I have ordered some Neophose and will use that to suppliment as well if needed. My Nitrates are running at 5 ppm so I feel okay about them. I can't seem to let go of the Vibrant just yet. I am also considering adding a UV sterilizer to the DT.
 

brandon429

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Post an updated full tank shot

I’m curious to see how much the mass has been allowed to grow if it’s been left in place, and the same sandbed, since oct

Seeing how the invader handled this time and the partial actions against it in an updated pics is gold for tank tuners

Ideal would be two pics side by side, one from nov or so, and one recent one so we can see unspoken details

Leaving an invader in place and taking incremental action works sometimes, and removing the entire invader by hand, then taking regrowth preventative action works all the time, but those with massive tanks can’t do that much work. This tank wasn’t massive from what I saw on the blackout pic

Removing dino cells by hand from your system never causes more dino, starving them sure might, and correct pre removal should precede any uv install. Hand removal is incomplete and leaves cells for growback, but not in a crazy virulent state and that intercept point is critical. When their mass is low

You want the initial mass reduced and removed before taking mitigation action if you have a tank size that allows it, and as I read you’ve have four mos to try the leaving it in the tank mode, pics show us how it adapts over this time. There is not a single biological reason not to take forced control over where dinos are hiding in repose in your system (sandbed suspect, pics)
Even if you want an exclusive N and P system of approach, you do not have to run that in the fully invaded condition.

Nano reefs are made invasion free this way all the time, you just have a few more gallons.
 
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sfin52

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Agree no single approach beats this invader back. It takes effort and multiple tactics. The fight is winnable. I would encourage not to overfeed to raise Po and No up. This can lead to bigger issues.
 
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Bob Lauson

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I stopped the GFO And my phosphates are up to 0.04 ppm. Nitrates are at 5 ppm and thinking I am on the right track. My overall plan is to get the phosphates to 0.1 and keep the nitrates around 5 ppm. I will keep the GAC going for now and intend to back the vibrant off to dosing every 2 weeks. My key, I think, is to stop all the noise and just keep a steady course for the next couple of months and using the phosphate and nitrate levels as my barometer. Those seem to be the two most consistent themes of all the Dino threads. As of today there is no obvious signs of my little Dino friends and will likely add live sand back in during the next two weeks.
 

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