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They can get out of control and once they’re there and they can be stubborn to get rid of. Tackled mine with 3 days no light, feed the tank on end of 3rd day, then another 3 days no lights. You can rubber band a filter sock to the bottom of a siphon first, drop it in your sump, and siphon the big stuff out before you start the no lights, if you go that route. I also dosed h2o2 when I did this, but it probably isn’t necessaryyes they do actually have little bubbles on them what should i do treat it or leave it alone?
Who has the time to go buy a microscope or even borrow one? The whole world is practically quarantined and the global economy has stalled lol. Only thing you can do is post better pictures, take advice here and do your own internet research before applying them. Plenty of people have beat dinos without having to setup a biochemistry lab in their living roomChemiclean is not effective at all on dinos. It doesn't help all forms of cyano but is effective against some.
Best advice is get a cheap scope, post pictures on this thread........https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/dinoflagellates-%E2%80%93-are-you-tired-of-battling-altogether.293318/
Read the first several pages of the thread and then post any questions you have on it. This is a very tough nut to crack. No simple, one size fits all strategy will work. That's why diagnosing it correctly as dinos and just as important what strain of dinos is so important.
Who has the time to go buy a microscope or even borrow one? The whole world is practically quarantined and the global economy has stalled lol. Only thing you can do is post better pictures, take advice here and do your own internet research before applying them. Plenty of people have beat dinos without having to setup a biochemistry lab in their living room
you can get an inexpensive microscope on amazon for $22 and to your door by Monday
while plenty of people have beaten dinos, not all. Part of the problem is that the treatment isn't the same for all strains. Odds are you will be lucky and you'll take the steps that match the strain, but if you're wrong about the strain, it can cost you big time in dead corals, and in some cases, to leave the hobby.
Also, some folks, once the have the scope, love using it to observe the microfauna that is living in their tanks. I've spend hours looking that such threads. Very cool
Stay safe
Apologies if I came out combative. I’m not saying that a microscope isn’t a valuable tool, I’m just pointing out that this a a tricky time for buying/acquiring equipment. You know as well as I do, probably even better, that there are some noxious strains of dinos that’ll poison the water and kill everything. Timing is everything! The quicker you can get on it the better. That week it takes the microscope to arrive might be when the tank crashes.
Blackouts are free and are pretty effective. That’s why so many people on this forum recommend them. The issue people have is they rush the blackout. Everything looks good so they run the lights like normal, feed like normal, and what little dinos are left in the system come right back.Problem with this is that each kind of dino's (assuming it's dinos at all), are treated so differently without a scope your are just stabbing in the dark. And outside of trying a black out (which is NOT effective on most types), there is nothing else you can really do at home without buying things, NO3 dosing, PO4 dosing, dinox, UV, whatever method other then black out pretty much requires buying SOMETHING.