Dino X working in reverse

Discussion in 'Fauna Marin' started by DeeBee, Jul 8, 2015.

  1. techhnyne

    techhnyne Active Member

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    I did a 3 day lights out with light h202 dosing and my dinos were gone by end of 72 hours
     

  2. LORD FORBES

    LORD FORBES New Member

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  3. LORD FORBES

    LORD FORBES New Member

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    I'm running carbon and Phosguard should I remove them from my tank before dosing NO3 and PO4?
     
  4. Fauna Marin

    Fauna Marin Active Member R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    Hi Montireef,

    I am really sorry but what you say about DinoX is definitely not true. Our product does in fact work against the types of Dino you said it does not. We have had this product on the market for more than 20 years in Europe and have saved tens of thousands of reef tanks from a complete loss. Depending on the severity of the problem, we usually attempt other common methods of Dino treatment before using DinoX, but depending on the nature of the problem, it makes sense to work with DinoX.

    Some problems which have been mentioned earlier are not only Dino-related issues but also gold algae and bacteria-related issues which can be the cause of negative reaction. In situations like this, DinoX cannot work because the product is not a toxic substance.

    Regards,
    Claude
     
  5. NyReefer81

    NyReefer81 Member

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    It took me over 3 mos to fully get over dino!! I don't know the exact strain of what i had but it was stringy brown and had a air bubble off the end of it, it attached mainly to sand and corals on my end ...

    Things i tried that did not work -
    1. Vacuming sand, cleaning off rocks etc
    2. Vacuming just the dino
    3. DINO X (may work for some, or just coincidental as it goes away naturally user maybe dosing this thinking its working) Also why isn't the ingredients listed on the back of Dino X? Easy home remedy stuff? Maybe Hydrogen Peroxide?
    4. NO3 PO4
    5. Hydrogen Peroxide treatments (this techniques was not necessarily bad but didn't notice it helping either since it was killing good bacteria too)
    6. Changing out media (chemi pure, poly pads etc)

    Things that somewhat worked ...
    1. Complete tank blackouts (3 days, 5 days, a full 7 days etc i tried) tank would look pristine clear but than slowly but surely it came back!!
    2. Removing anything dead (had a massive die off but only fish interestingly enough)
    3. Tank breakdown, clean out, new sand, new rocks etc (last resort)

    What worked -
    1. Patience!!!
    2. Keeping the tank full of life!! (encouraging pods to thrive etc but not cleaning so frequently, continue to feed etc..)
    3. Cheeto in main display tank to thrive to help growth of beneficial bacteria ...
    4. Continuing to allow corraline algae to thrive with use of Part A and B / Mag.
    5. Removal of any corals covered in Dino which towards the end is where i would find it lingering ...

    So overall after months of research, asking many LFS (who had no clue), and more research i have concluded two things!

    1. Most tanks who have Dino have a beneficial bacteria problem - one cant compete with the other is the theory!
    2. Tank may not be fully cycled yet or mature enough going back to problem #1 above - some rocks like Tonga take longer to cure, or the sand etc...

    What never to do!
    1. Water changes!!! Only fuels Dino

     
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