Dinoflagellate Identification Guide
- Thread starter taricha
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Keith 210 reef
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Thank you so much for your reply. I will keep an eye on this and post again when I see any changes in the tank. The tank is in a new phase. I let it run with just salt water two two months before I put any live critters in it or turned on lights. I lowered my brightness of the lights and that seems to have helped a little. Again, thank you for taking the time and effort to reply Taricha!
Keith 210 reef
New Member
My tank is now not looking good. It looks like many Dinos. Can you see they type? I just added some carbon, cutting down on lighting and adding nitrate and phosphate. I have a 57 watt UV and going to be installing another 40 Watt UV later this week. If you have any insides it would greatly be appreciated. Thank you
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Sinkers
Active Member
Hey guys I'm having trouble trying to ID what I believe to be Dinos. Unfortunately I only have access to a cheap kids microscope and my camera isn't the best.
They are mainly all over the sand. I thought they were diatoms at first but weren't going away so I checked under a microscope.
My Phosphates went to zero and I struggled to get them up by feeding more so I have since been dosing to keep around 0.03-0.06. Nitrates have been 7 - 10ppm.
I noticed a few larger species (LCA?) that didn't move a lot, but I did see them moving. There's a lot of these little guys though, not sure what they are. Sand does seem to clear a bit during the night so not sure if they are going into the water or sand.
They are mainly all over the sand. I thought they were diatoms at first but weren't going away so I checked under a microscope.
My Phosphates went to zero and I struggled to get them up by feeding more so I have since been dosing to keep around 0.03-0.06. Nitrates have been 7 - 10ppm.
I noticed a few larger species (LCA?) that didn't move a lot, but I did see them moving. There's a lot of these little guys though, not sure what they are. Sand does seem to clear a bit during the night so not sure if they are going into the water or sand.
Sinkers
Active Member
Hey guys I'm having trouble trying to ID what I believe to be Dinos. Unfortunately I only have access to a cheap kids microscope and my camera isn't the best.
They are mainly all over the sand. I thought they were diatoms at first but weren't going away so I checked under a microscope.
My Phosphates went to zero and I struggled to get them up by feeding more so I have since been dosing to keep around 0.03-0.06. Nitrates have been 7 - 10ppm.
I noticed a few larger species (LCA?) that didn't move a lot, but I did see them moving. There's a lot of these little guys though, not sure what they are. Sand does seem to clear a bit during the night so not sure if they are going into the water or sand.
Also in this picture there was a little group of some triangular shaped things. They didn't move. Any idea what that could be?
Ziggy17
Valuable Member
Good news and bad news.
The good news, it’s ostreopsis, and they are killed using a UV light with a proper flow rate in 7-14 days.
The bad news, it’s Ostreopsis, and it’s super toxic. Get some activated carbon going or else it’s chemical warfare that can and will kill livestock.
Have a read at the attachment. It will walk you through everything.
Also, I see predominantly Ostreopsis, however there could be another strain in there too. First things first. Kill these guys. Then take a look at a new slide in a week after you set up the UV.
The good news, it’s ostreopsis, and they are killed using a UV light with a proper flow rate in 7-14 days.
The bad news, it’s Ostreopsis, and it’s super toxic. Get some activated carbon going or else it’s chemical warfare that can and will kill livestock.
Have a read at the attachment. It will walk you through everything.
Also, I see predominantly Ostreopsis, however there could be another strain in there too. First things first. Kill these guys. Then take a look at a new slide in a week after you set up the UV.
Tuffloud1
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It’s primarily on the sand and comes out during day. I’ve had this for 4 years. Been running UV for the last 2 years 24/7 and doesn’t seem to be doing anything. 90 watt unit on display (262 gallon) and 25 watt on my connected frag tank (30 gallon). The only time it stays mostly at bay is when cyano is out of control.
Ziggy17
Valuable Member
When you read the document, it will outline how to set up the UV. You want to set it up so it’s a closed system inside the DT, and not tied into the return or running in the sump. It looks awful, but it’s way more effective.
Tuffloud1
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Yeah, I read all that and have my flow rates correct. It just doesn’t work for me and I’ve been doing this for 2 years on a 12 year old system. I just kind of deal with the little bit that springs up now and again. I’ve never run GAC, never had an issue with livestock. I’ve had some of my fish for 12 years.
Tuffloud1
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I appreciate the suggestions. Just curious if there is any other breakthrough knowledge or strategies for dealing with it. Mine have come and gone over the years so I don’t think that I’ll ever fully eradicate it unless I start a whole new system from scratch. UV, phyto, keeping nitrates/phosphates elevated or lower, less light, adding more “biodiversity” with pods, bacteria, live reef rubble, nothing seems to fully rid it. Super annoying stuff!
Last edited:
Feel the pain. I am just coming off a 6 month battle. I do not have a lot of coral in my tank but every square inch of my tank it was covered in this snot. Tried most of the common stuff but it kept coming back. Changed two steps from what I have tried in the past and notice a major improvement after (see bold below). Reason I want to say I may be getting over the hump (knock on wood) is simply due to to one small Zoa frag. That has been closed for months since my outbreak started that has just started to open as of yesterday. Below are my exact steps From my last go around. Only can speak on what worked for me Most will sound like a broken record. Will note I was battling Ostreopsis only
Steps.
1) get nitrate to at least 10ppm and phos to at least .1
2) not sure how much this help in my case. My uv is currently under sized for Dino’s but I lowered it to 1X turn over just to maximize contact intensity
3) I chose to do a 5 day black not 3. Dino’s dying will help increase nitrate a phosphate a bit. But definitely need to be sure to maintain after.
4) photo feast all 5 black out days at max dose
5) stating on the 4th and 5th night id turn the lights on for a few mins to quickly perform a daily rock work blow off and sand stir. DO NOT USE A BRUSE TO BRUSH OFF ROCK. Best thing I found to blow off rock is a 6in plastic drywall taping knife that you can grab at a home improvement. Photo attached. As of writing this I’m now 10 day post black out and still performing this step. But no longer see any bubble now through out the day with normal daily lighting schedule.
6) after ever daily blowoff. Dose coral snow right after when the Dino’s are suspended. Only been on it for the last two weeks but notice a big improvement. This stuff is amazing!! lol . I add mb7 with each dosing. Along with mb clean at its 2 week recommendation schedule. Once I hit the two week mark. If you can turn off pumps and let it blow around in your tank for 1 hour. I will be transitioning rock work blow offs and coral snow dosing to only when I go to clean glass. Which is like every 3-4 days. If I notice Dino starting to come back I will switch back to daily.
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https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-dreaded-dinos.1116491/post-13664686
Steps.
1) get nitrate to at least 10ppm and phos to at least .1
2) not sure how much this help in my case. My uv is currently under sized for Dino’s but I lowered it to 1X turn over just to maximize contact intensity
3) I chose to do a 5 day black not 3. Dino’s dying will help increase nitrate a phosphate a bit. But definitely need to be sure to maintain after.
4) photo feast all 5 black out days at max dose
5) stating on the 4th and 5th night id turn the lights on for a few mins to quickly perform a daily rock work blow off and sand stir. DO NOT USE A BRUSE TO BRUSH OFF ROCK. Best thing I found to blow off rock is a 6in plastic drywall taping knife that you can grab at a home improvement. Photo attached. As of writing this I’m now 10 day post black out and still performing this step. But no longer see any bubble now through out the day with normal daily lighting schedule.
6) after ever daily blowoff. Dose coral snow right after when the Dino’s are suspended. Only been on it for the last two weeks but notice a big improvement. This stuff is amazing!! lol . I add mb7 with each dosing. Along with mb clean at its 2 week recommendation schedule. Once I hit the two week mark. If you can turn off pumps and let it blow around in your tank for 1 hour. I will be transitioning rock work blow offs and coral snow dosing to only when I go to clean glass. Which is like every 3-4 days. If I notice Dino starting to come back I will switch back to daily.
Extreme Water Clarity and Cyano Eradication, Made Easy!
Edit 10/092023: Note that I have tweaked the formula a bit. You can find an updated video here: Coral Snow Link: Coral Snow Hello all! I have been reefing now for about 25 years, and over those many years I have picked up many tips, tricks, and best habits/practices. From a hobbyist and...
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https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-dreaded-dinos.1116491/post-13664686
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