Dinoflagellates - dinos a possible cure!? Follow along and see!

K100286

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How do,I get the pictures into the file? Is there some where on the site I can learn how to do these things? I feel pretty dumb, but at age 74 I'm not tech savvy.
 

cowboy

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How do,I get the pictures into the file? Is there some where on the site I can learn how to do these things? I feel pretty dumb, but at age 74 I'm not tech savvy.

After you click on upload files you will see another box that says browse files click the link and you will be able to find the pictures.
Try saving them on your desktop it might help you find them quicker.
If your using a phone click on the folder that says my files go to DCIM folder the camera. Select the photo you want to insert and then click done.
 

metrokat

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About 4-6 weeks ago I was horrified to see dinos in my refugium. I had recently converted it to a frag tank, it used to be a macro algae fuge before. The frag racks, locline, walls were covered with hair algae which then took on a snotty bubbly brown appearance. I did a 2 days light out which beat it back some but it came back in no time. I fresh water dipped my frags, rocks, rack, to no avail, it was momentarily abated but came back. I used peroxide in the fresh water dips also. I was in trouble. I lost a few acro frags in the process as well.

It took 1-2 doses of Brightwell Aquatics MicrobacterCLEAN (not to be confused with MB7) to remove these dinos. I am not sure it was supposed to work that quickly as the product is meant to work slowly over time. My system may not be dino free, but the appearance is tremendously improved, I cannot believe the results.
The return loc line in my display tank was covered with dinos. During feeding I turned off all the pumps and with a pipette i dribbled some MBCLEAN on the loc line. The pumps came back on in 10 minutes. The next day and since then I have seen no yucky brown stuff on the locline.

These are some bad quality cell phone pictures of the fuge.

Before
27659498196_baec8189c6_b.jpg

27694395715_0b0c97f9ae_b.jpg


After
27083847063_5590c31180_h.jpg


MBCLEAN is a powerful product, dirty water animals like clams and xenia will not like it. I have 2 clams and was very cautious while dosing. But I'm amazed at the results and recommend it. I'll post more pictures if I see the problem return.
 
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twilliard

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@twilliard, looking at your original thread, I believe you may have been dealing with Ostreopsis spp. and not Prorocentrum lima. Both look similar, but P. lima is rounded off at the tip where Ostreopsis is pointy. I took a few images and laid them side by side. The first image is yours, from your thread "looking for an ID". The second image is Ostreopsis ovata, image pulled from Google. The third and fourth are Prorocentrum lima, both images pulled from Google. If this method really works, then this makes it even more of a big deal. It's my understanding Ostreopsis is the most difficult dinoflagellate to eradicate in our aquarium.

10sY06i.png

That is spectacular!
Finding an ID on these guys is hard to do.
This is why I am wanting to start a database on them.
Thank you so much for that and I will keep you in mind for others!
 
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twilliard

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Thanks for joining in!
Not sure what happened but when I got up I have so many tags and inbox messages.
I will try to catch up with all the questions today!
 

taricha

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Thanks for joining in!
Not sure what happened but when I got up I have so many tags and inbox messages.
I will try to catch up with all the questions today!
Word of your success got crossposted to other places very interested in dinos.
So here we are...
For those with a microscope, look on algaeid.com for pics and video. Movement in video is especially helpful.
The most likely is ostreopsis, amphidinium next, prorocentrum 3rd most likely. Very few have problem blooms of any other genus in their tanks.
 

jason2459

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Couple good ID resources
http://www.keweenawalgae.mtu.edu/gallery_pages/dinoflagellates.htm

World Register of Marine Species
WoRMS Photogallery

http://www.marinespecies.org/photogallery.php


Here's some from my tank. I don't do anything and just let them sort themselves out. But next time I find some I'll have to separate them out and try out some of these things in this thread on them and see how they react.

Peridinium
http://coo.fieldofscience.com/2011/12/state-of-peridinium.html

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/our-tanks-biology-up-close.239838/page-10#post-2924126

41385273d3baae23e2d0a051b7a2ef96.jpg




 
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stephenhall1987

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It is 125mg per 10 gallons
I dosed it for 3 days straight with no water changes in between.

So you only dose for 3 days, not 14 or 21?
Do I need to turn off the UV?
If yes to both, can I turn it back on day 5 or 6?

One thing I really would like to point out while using metronidazole (I know for humans atleast) no alcohol. The combination of the two has proven to be fatal. I meant to post this earlier on in the thread but kept getting side tracked apologies.

So no vodka dosing?
If so, can I switch to vinegar?


I currently am clear of dino but have dealt with it in the past. (but I have a friend that is currently dealing with it)
Here was my struggle:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2495570

Video of my dino under microscope:
http://s16.photobucket.com/user/moto_master/media/20150412_1331051.mp4.html
 
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cowboy

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I'm currently unsure how metronidazole and acetic acid will interact. But with the presence of dinos, and Cyano, I would personally stop any kind of carbon dosing. As I feel that it would fuel the growth of both.
 
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twilliard

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Couple good ID resources
http://www.keweenawalgae.mtu.edu/gallery_pages/dinoflagellates.htm

World Register of Marine Species
WoRMS Photogallery

http://www.marinespecies.org/photogallery.php


Here's some from my tank. I don't do anything and just let them sort themselves out. But next time I find some I'll have to separate them out and try out some of these things in this thread on them and see how they react.

Peridinium
http://coo.fieldofscience.com/2011/12/state-of-peridinium.html

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/our-tanks-biology-up-close.239838/page-10#post-2924126

41385273d3baae23e2d0a051b7a2ef96.jpg





Are you the member who uses concave slides? Where did you get them if so?
 
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twilliard

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So you only dose for 3 days, not 14 or 21?
Do I need to turn off the UV?
If yes to both, can I turn it back on day 5 or 6?



So no vodka dosing?
If so, can I switch to vinegar?


I currently am clear of dino but have dealt with it in the past. (but I have a friend that is currently dealing with it)
Here was my struggle:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2495570

Video of my dino under microscope:
http://s16.photobucket.com/user/moto_master/media/20150412_1331051.mp4.html
Yes air dosed for only 3 days. Not sure where the confusion came from on the daily dosing. Sorry!
Great video of your dinoflagellates ;)
 

reeferfoxx

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On the metroplex box it says dose 1-2 spoons per 10 gallons. I went ahead and dosed 2 spoons per 10 gallons. I will do this for the next 2 days? Or should I up the dosage since it's only 70% metronidazole?
 
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twilliard

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On the metroplex box it says dose 1-2 spoons per 10 gallons. I went ahead and dosed 2 spoons per 10 gallons. I will do this for the next 2 days? Or should I up the dosage since it's only 70% metronidazole?
I would think that 2 would be fine, isn't that 250mg per 10 gallons though?
I am sure you can't overdose it
 

tampasnooker

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What's the verdict about dosing MZ and h2o2? Any concerns about negating effectiveness of either? The staggered dosing sounds like a good idea.

Also - slight detour - I remember reading about h202 affecting bubble tip anemones. Can anyone chime in quickly if there are concerns?

Great work twilliard!
 

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