Dinoflagellates
- Thread starter Allen Cox
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JoshH
Tank Status: Wet...ish, growing things....
What's there reasoning for suggesting you have Dinos??? And a quick search will bring up a couple really good threads on the proper ID, causes and treatments :)
JoshH
Tank Status: Wet...ish, growing things....
Given you're description, he's probably right unfortunately... there are two very large Dino threads to look into... It seems there really is no magic cure or easy way to go about getting rid of them.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/dinoflagellates-–-are-you-tired-of-battling-altogether.293318/
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/dinoflagellates-–-are-you-tired-of-battling-altogether.293318/
I've got same problem, dinoflagellates growing quickly and been searching threads for how to combat them and learned that hydrogen peroxide dosing is a very common method. People have reported success however I’ve found various dosage recommendations which vary significantly mathematically. I’ve listed the ones I’ve come across below. Can anyone help me out with which is correct/safe and also effective?
a) 35% H202 at 1 ml per 10 liter tank volume = 0.003500% H202 concentration in tank
b) 3% H202 at 1 ml per 10 gal tank volume = 0.000079% H202 concentration in tank
c) 3% H202 at 10 ml per 10 gal tank volume = 0.000793% H202 concentration in tank
d) 35% H202 at 1 ml per 10 gal tank volume = 0.000925% H202 concentration in tank
a) 35% H202 at 1 ml per 10 liter tank volume = 0.003500% H202 concentration in tank
b) 3% H202 at 1 ml per 10 gal tank volume = 0.000079% H202 concentration in tank
c) 3% H202 at 10 ml per 10 gal tank volume = 0.000793% H202 concentration in tank
d) 35% H202 at 1 ml per 10 gal tank volume = 0.000925% H202 concentration in tank
My LFS told me that Microbacter7 will do the trick as I have them too. Any truth to that? I have this issue in my tank right now. I'm new to the hobby, but from my understanding is that this will consume what is feeding the Dino and it will slowly die off. Anybody have any thoughts? Thanks!
bubbaque
Follow me on Instagram @ Bubbaquecorals
I've killed dinos twice with 3% hydrogen peroxide (once in two different tanks). I dosed the 1ml per 10 gallons of tank water. It doesn't need to be exact, as sometimes I would dose a little more. When I raised nutrients like suggested in that thread, my dinos only got worse.
I got rid of the Dinos. My LFS told me to black out my tank for 7 days. It worked. I did a 10 gallon water change on my 29 gallon, then I unplugged the lights and covered the tank with a sheet. I also put a bag of carbon in the sump. After 7 days I took off the sheet and turned the lights back on, then did another 10 gallon water change. It worked well. The only problem I had was that my only coral, a montipora cap, died. Also, he said he would not try this if I didn’t have a sump because then I wouldn’t have enough gas exchange.
brandon429
what, exactly, are you doing in your avatar
Im going for team rip clean.
no matter what you are about to do that entails waiting months for a hopeful decline, do not start your tank in the invaded condition. reset it via skip cycle work, start from the non invaded/reduced invaded condition, for the 1% who aren't playing around here and have accessible tanks. There very well could be a 400 gallon keeper who isn't playing around, but doesn't have a crane avail and handy for the rip clean.
anyone with an invasion at 50 gallons or less, you can be uninvaded quicker than with water only actions. set your params to what corals like, act on the rest as a target.
no matter what you are about to do that entails waiting months for a hopeful decline, do not start your tank in the invaded condition. reset it via skip cycle work, start from the non invaded/reduced invaded condition, for the 1% who aren't playing around here and have accessible tanks. There very well could be a 400 gallon keeper who isn't playing around, but doesn't have a crane avail and handy for the rip clean.
anyone with an invasion at 50 gallons or less, you can be uninvaded quicker than with water only actions. set your params to what corals like, act on the rest as a target.
brandon429
what, exactly, are you doing in your avatar
the fact you don't have it packed with corals/nice. agreed its a rough import that happened there, that's an exact prime example of what Im meaning about a rip clean.
If you run your tank through this thread, it comes out clean, but with sparse dino cells left in the rock areas and not a single one left in the sand.
then you start your preventatives, for the clinch win.
sand rinse thread for accessible tanks (not a single persistent invasion going)
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/t...a-one-against-many.230281/page-7#post-4107442
when your tank is ran through that thread, it comes out looking brand new because that's a deep action cleaning thread. You will have less recurring mass to battle with, and for the money you are about to spend on stocking that mid sized tank, id be using UV light after the rip clean and practice setting nutrients to what corals want just my opinion on how to deal with invasions, in accessible tanks. our thread puts your sand back clean, the fish, the coral and the cleaned rock back in the tank for a fresh perspective on prevention going fwd.
when the rocks are out, rinse them well of the invader using clean saltwater, then lightly mist peroxide on the non coral areas to hit some dino leftovers, outside the water, not under dilution, key detail.
to start with that invader mass fully in place simply provides no strategic value. Our rip cleaning system will not stop you from adjusting N and P, or adding pods as competitors after the fact.
getting keepers to literally stop farming the invasion is usually a tougher step than beating the actual invasion. they fear systemic upset, and wasted time (quick growback)
If you run your tank through this thread, it comes out clean, but with sparse dino cells left in the rock areas and not a single one left in the sand.
then you start your preventatives, for the clinch win.
sand rinse thread for accessible tanks (not a single persistent invasion going)
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/t...a-one-against-many.230281/page-7#post-4107442
when your tank is ran through that thread, it comes out looking brand new because that's a deep action cleaning thread. You will have less recurring mass to battle with, and for the money you are about to spend on stocking that mid sized tank, id be using UV light after the rip clean and practice setting nutrients to what corals want just my opinion on how to deal with invasions, in accessible tanks. our thread puts your sand back clean, the fish, the coral and the cleaned rock back in the tank for a fresh perspective on prevention going fwd.
when the rocks are out, rinse them well of the invader using clean saltwater, then lightly mist peroxide on the non coral areas to hit some dino leftovers, outside the water, not under dilution, key detail.
to start with that invader mass fully in place simply provides no strategic value. Our rip cleaning system will not stop you from adjusting N and P, or adding pods as competitors after the fact.
getting keepers to literally stop farming the invasion is usually a tougher step than beating the actual invasion. they fear systemic upset, and wasted time (quick growback)
Last edited:
brandon429
what, exactly, are you doing in your avatar
hey
did you update a rip cleaning pic here, that astounding after pic up top
that's night and day clean sharp corals open laser detail reset? with a lysmata in tow? wow man
did you update a rip cleaning pic here, that astounding after pic up top
that's night and day clean sharp corals open laser detail reset? with a lysmata in tow? wow man
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