DinoID Confirmation please - Ostreopsis [Confirmed]

[Christopher Aslett]

1 ml of 3 percent in 10 US gallons will be round 8 mg/l. I thought you’d put one drop. Perhaps that was sufficient to kill them? I very much doubt of any of it reached the majority.

It appears you have a microscope. Can you do a glass scrape with the short side of a glass slide up your glass, deposit that on the centre of another slide, add two drops of system water, coverslip then take a photo at 400x magnification? They are likely to be still there but can only be found associated with substrate or glass, not in the water.

 

[josephxsxn]

Light schedule is back up to 12 hours now like before but still only running blue lights. Have also done a water change last Saturday (not by choice about 20% plumbing failure) and this Saturday (10%). So far so good. All nutrients are Non-Zero still.

 

[Christopher Aslett]

Hi,

glad to hear it's going well. If you use a salifert phosphate test kit it should just look slightly different than a blank vial full of only aquarium water. It should not be discernible colour wise on the chart. Nitrates are a challenge to keep low albeit nuisance "algae" can be managed by phosphate limitation alone. You can run phosphate too low for corals. The dinoflagellate symbionts, yes the same type of "algae" you were battling, will die in corals if you run phosphate too low for extended periods. This leads to rapid tissue necrosis in SPS corals. If your test kits are the right ones, most do not measure sufficiently low, and your phosphate concentration is around 0.02 parts per million (mg/l), then bang the lights back on and enjoy your aquarium. Ostreopsis produce resting cysts that can germinate at around 25oC. They probably cannot last more than 6 months. Keep the temperature low (21-22oC) permanently and stably. Make any adjustments gradual. Everything will benefit from low temperature. Great news.