DIY Ammonia dosing for low nitrate systems

I bet the algae is using the ammonia super quick and it never gets to nitrate.

I like @Miami Reef suggestion. I’ve experimented with ammonia and it does some interesting positive things, but I’m currently just using nitrate because I didn’t like all the effects.
 
@Miami Reef any real difference in sodium vs calcium nitrate?
For nitrate? No.

For alkalinity and calcium? Yes, but slightly, depending on demand.

Sodium nitrate will cause a slight increase in alkalinity (every 50 ppm NO3 consumed will raise alk by 2.3 dKH)

Ammonium doesn’t have this effect because ammonia first reduces alkalinity, so the effect is net 0.

Calcium nitrate adds alkalinity and calcium in exact ratios found in calcium carbonate.
 
The algae looks great, so there’s definitely some effect at play.

Personally I’d probably get some sodium nitrate, spike it to 10 ppm, then instantly test.

The benefit is three fold:

1) You can validate if your test kit is actually working

2) You can instantly reduce the possibility of N limitations.

3) You can gauge to see how much demand your tank is actually desiring by tracking how fast the Nitrate drops. Then you can find an ammonium dose to match it.


…Or you can just continue dosing nitrate like us mortals used to do for the past few decades lol.

I agree that's a good plan. :)
 
I recall you did the same at the beginning of your tank? I’d be lost with you and Miami, thank you!

Yes, I was dosing ammonium bicarbonate and phosphate without a test kit, and it turned out it was not keeping up, and I seemed to get dinos. I did a number of things to clear the dinos (which together worked, not sure which, if any, was critical), and among them was twice boosting nitrate by 10 ppm.

I now have more fish and am feeding more so I'm not presently dosing N or P.
 
Yes, I was dosing ammonium bicarbonate and phosphate without a test kit, and it turned out it was not keeping up, and I seemed to get dinos. I did a number of things to clear the dinos (which together worked, not sure which, if any, was critical), and among them was twice boosting nitrate by 10 ppm.

I now have more fish and am feeding more so I'm not presently dosing N or P.
Interesting... There was a discussion a few days ago where several people said that Dinos are not caused by N or P bottoming out, that it's just a common misconception.
 
Interesting... There was a discussion a few days ago where several people said that Dinos are not caused by N or P bottoming out, that it's just a common misconception.

Yes, I know people say that. The world is a very complex place, much as we think a handful of tests tell us everything.

And I agree that dinos are not "caused" by low N and P, but it can allow dinos to thrive where competing organisms may not, and often enough to be a useful tool, raising N and P can help them be defeated.

There are many complexities, such as:

1. Nitrate not being a complete measure of N availability (ammonia, urea, and particulates also may need to be figured in, even if hard or impossible to measure at home).

2. There are more than one type of dino (google says thousands), which may have different attributes. Even identifying by microscope (something I personally did not think worth doing in my case since I was not confident in my identification capabilities or how exactly I'd change my plan once identified, or even how good such ID's are with the possibilities not being two or three species, but thousands))

3. There are many things that may outcompete them and win the day, including bacteria, green algae,, and diatoms.
 
Yep! All I know, is when I start seeing the dinos starting on my sand bed, it's time to test. Usually one of them is nondetect.
 
@Randy Holmes-Farley

If a tank has 15 ppm nitrate, is there likely more free ammonia available to corals (without dosing) than a tank with 5 ppm nitrate?

I dosed ammonia in the past when nitrate was <5. My tank is currently around 15. I was thinking of playing again with ammonia but maybe not since I have plenty of nitrate.
 
@Randy Holmes-Farley

If a tank has 15 ppm nitrate, is there likely more free ammonia available to corals (without dosing) than a tank with 5 ppm nitrate?

I dosed ammonia in the past when nitrate was <5. My tank is currently around 15. I was thinking of playing again with ammonia but maybe not since I have plenty of nitrate.

I’d be reluctant to conclude anything about ammonia concentration from nitrate.
 
Agreed.

The only possible theory is having detectable nitrate can leave a little bit of ammonia available for those who need it by satisfying the N needs from those who can get it from nitrate.

I hope I explained the rationale, but it’s just a theory.
 
ok, I noodled through it but couldn’t come to a conclusion either way.
 
@Randy Holmes-Farley with the help of @Miami Reef we’ve got my tank with nutrients now 😀
IMG_7890.jpeg


What would you suggest going forward? Retest tomorrow to try and figure consumption rate?

To get PO4 I’ve dosed 5 straight days 20ml which is a full .1ppm dose.

NO3 got from dosing sodium nitrate. 40ml/full 10ppm dose today.

Everyday I'm dosing 96ml of ammonia bicarbonate. It’s never registered any NO3 reading. Should I double this? Or wait until tomorrow/24 hours retesting and see consumption?
 
@Randy Holmes-Farley with the help of @Miami Reef we’ve got my tank with nutrients now 😀
IMG_7890.jpeg


What would you suggest going forward? Retest tomorrow to try and figure consumption rate?

To get PO4 I’ve dosed 5 straight days 20ml which is a full .1ppm dose.

NO3 got from dosing sodium nitrate. 40ml/full 10ppm dose today.

Everyday I'm dosing 96ml of ammonia bicarbonate. It’s never registered any NO3 reading. Should I double this? Or wait until tomorrow/24 hours retesting and see consumption?
You could approximate your consumption by comparing your last 5 days of dose to your last 5 days of increase. The difference is what was being consumed. Try dosing that to see if it stays stable.

Edit: a little trickier with phosphate the more I think about it. Some of the consumption will just be binding to calcium carbonate surfaces. Actual consumption will be lower. Still worth a shot I think.

Should work better with nitrate.
 
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Some reef aquaria have chronic low nitrogen availability. One indicator is very low nitrate. Nitrate dosing is a fine remedy, but it is possible that ammonia dosing may be more beneficial for some organisms since ammonia can be energetically easier to assimilate than is nitrate.

For this reason, I thought it would be useful to provide some DIY directions for ammonia dosing.

There are many materials that could be used for ammonia dosing, including some household ammonia solutions, but in order to give better assurance of purity, I'm electing the show directions using food grade ammonium chloride and food grade ammonium bicarbonate.

Ammonium Chloride
Ammonium chloride, NH4Cl is essentially ammonia (NH3) plus hydrochloric acid (HCl). The reason I mention that fact relates to the impact on alkalinity. Dosing NH3 followed by consumption by organisms to form tissue in a net alkalinity neutral process. I'm ignoring the fact that if it is converted into nitrate, alk is lost, because if that nitrate is later used, all the alk lost comes back.

However, the HCl that is effectively dosed will steadily deplete alk. Adding the equivalent of 50 mg/L nitrate (0.81 meq/L; coming from NH4Cl) will have depleted 0.81 meq/l (2.3 dKH) of alkalinity. That may need to be made up for in some other fashion, such as adding more alkalintiy supplement.

High quality ammonium chloride is readily available and inexpensive. Loudwolf is one brand, but there are many. Aim for food grade or ACS reagent grade. Amazon carries many Loudwolf is $7 for 4 ounces, which contains 38,000 mg of ammonium, and is equivalent to 131,000 mg of nitrate, enough to raise 100 L of aquarium water to 5 ppm nitrate about 262 times. So cost is not significant.

Ammonium Bicarbonate
Ammonium bicarbonate, also known as baking ammonia, NH4 HCO3 is essentially ammonia (NH3) plus CO2 and water.

As mentioned above, dosing NH3 followed by consumption by organisms to form tissue in a net alkalinity neutral process. The CO2 and water also do not impact alkalinity. Thus, ammonium bicarbonate is a net alk neutral way to dose ammonia.

High quality ammonium bicarbonate is also available from Amazon as baking ammonia. It is readily available and inexpensive. One brand sells 11 ounces for $15, so it's cost is similar to the Loudwolf ammonium chloride per unit of ammonia added (one needs to use more of the ammonium bicarbonate than the ammonium chloride, evening out the cost).

Stock Solution
Using either of these materials, we will make a stock solution for dosing. Keep it closed up as it will smell of ammonia and slowly loses ammonia to the air. Ammonium bicarbonate will have a higher pH, smell more, and lose ammonia to the air faster.

13.5 grams of ammonium chloride (about 3 - 4.6 teaspoons, varies by brand) in 1 L RO/DI water.
OR
20 grams of ammonium bicarbonate (about 4 and 3/4 teaspoons) in 1 L RO/DI water.

Both solutions contain approximately 4300 mg/L (4.3 mg/mL) ammonia, equivalent to 15,700 mg/l nitrate.

Dosing

Don't be overly afraid of dosing ammonia due to toxicity, but one cannot dose substantial amounts all at once. IMO, it is safe to add 0.1 ppm ammonia (equivalent to 0.36 ppm nitrate) at once to any reef tank, and one can likely add more, if it mixes in well. Don't dose it right onto a fish, but dosing 2-3x that amount at once is also likely OK. Of course, using a dosing pump to spread out the dosing is fine and may be preferable, but be sure to guard against dosing pumps out of control (e.g., stuck on). Stock solutions can be increased or decreased in potency to match pumping needs. The ammonia could also be put into an ato since exact daily dosing is not required.

To add 0.1 mg/L ammonia to an aquarium, you would need to add 2.3 mL of either stock solution to a 100 L (26 gallon) aquarium. You may need to add this amount multiply times per day to dose enough.

I'd add it to a sump, if possible, to dilute it well before it gets to the main tank. Most folks dosing ammonia wouldn't also be using media intended to push the nitrogen cycle in various ways, but if you do, dose downstream of that media.

Of course, if anything seems to react badly the first time or two that you dose, stop dosing, double check the amounts, and perhaps come back to this thread for further discussion of what might be happening.

This article has a lot more on ammonia in reef aquaria, although some parts of it may not be correct (such as the utility of products such as Prime):

Ammonia and the Reef Aquarium by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com

Happy Reefing!

edit: One can use this calculator for dosing these stock solutions. Use the entry for ammonia from ammonium nitrate when using the ammonium bicarbonate. For ammonium chloride, use it the same, but dose 0.7 times the amount it says to add to the aquarium.

http://theplantedtank.co.uk/calculator.htm
is there a max amount of Ammonia bicarb I can mix in 1 L? In case anyone is wondering, Randy is correct that you can not mix more than 30g of Fluoride in L. :) nothing to see here folks. Keep moving.
 
is there a max amount of Ammonia bicarb I can mix in 1 L? In case anyone is wondering, Randy is correct that you can not mix more than 30g of Fluoride in L. :) nothing to see here folks. Keep moving.

Yes, there’s a limit. At 20 deg C, Wikipedia says about 216 g/L, and higher at warmer temps.

But higher concentrations may also lose ammonia to the air faster.
 
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On June 11, I mixed up a solution with Loudwolf Ammonium Chloride according to the instructions in the first post. The solution has been sealed in a jar since then, with the lid removed only to draw out a syringe of the solution.

I noticed yesterday that the solution doesn't smell like ammonia at all. I can stick my nose in the jar, and there's literally no smell at all.

Am I right in assuming that the ammonia has evaporated off and I need to make a new solution?
 
On June 11, I mixed up a solution with Loudwolf Ammonium Chloride according to the instructions in the first post. The solution has been sealed in a jar since then, with the lid removed only to draw out a syringe of the solution.

I noticed yesterday that the solution doesn't smell like ammonia at all. I can stick my nose in the jar, and there's literally no smell at all.

Am I right in assuming that the ammonia has evaporated off and I need to make a new solution?

It may be fine. Ammonium chloride does not smell or evaporate as much as ammonium hydroxide or bicarbonate. Try making a new batch and see how mich it smells.
 

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