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Yes, I have built several like that.Great info everyone! Thanks a bunch. I'm thinking of going with 48 with no optics (just in case I guess).
Does anyone know if a Meanwell ELN-60-48P (I need the PWM not analog 'D') could run 24 3w LED's (it's around 2.5w @700mA per LED actual - the LED's will be driven less, maybe 650/680ish) in one long series? The whole parallel string thing seems a bit...compicated when it comes to balancing out strings.
I guess I should use a 700mA quick blow fuze...and some sort of resistor?
Not quite that elaborate just Fuses to terminal Block/Drivers but It's working great for almost a year. And my Corals have never looked better.Awesome! Thanks Bill. Did you also do the whole Driver -> resistor -> fuze ( with "->" being the terminal blocks) like in this picture:
I won't need the additional block - this picture is from a 'D' driver setup.
I'm assuming I can safely manage the current with the internal pot (while testing) and once it's set for my 'max' mA - then connect it to the controller? I'm still a bit lost as to which resistor I should use and if a 700mA quick blow fuze is what I need.
You guys rock! I'll be sure to document the actual build part so maybe someone else won't have so many questions.
Yes, I have built several like that.
Bill
The way it was explained to me is that the resistor keeps voltage from surging and causing problems like burned Led's It's kinda like the regulator of the Voltage, But I may be wrong?If I'm not mistaken, the resistor isn't necessary but is used to measure the voltage. I'm not getting into the math of it, though... lol If you get an accurate (1%) resistor at 100ohm, you can measure how much voltage the string of LEDs is using by measuring how much voltage the resistor is dropping and multiplying it.
Brandon