DIY Peristaltic Pump: Cultural Teachings of Glorious Nation of Kazakistan

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OK some polishing done and the shape is completed. I still need to drill a small hole on the side opposite to where shoulder bolt is..

20210902_192519.jpg

20210902_192505.jpg

20210902_192531.jpg
 
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OK one last piece for the rotary/pivot assembly is this:

it's a again cut out of piece of acrylic made of 4 layers glued together:

20210902_224036.jpg

A 5mm hole is drilled and a M5 nut placeholder is burnt-in:

20210902_225511.jpg

A 5mm threaded rod is used here, an additional piece of acrylic glued on top (shown) will keep the nut firmly. To prevent the threaded piece from rotating inside the M5 nut, I apply some thermal paste to it as it enters the acrylic piece. Thermal paste will form a layer covering the thread and will prevent it from moving altogether.

20210902_225456.jpg

Once everything is glued, the end piece looks like this:

20210903_193954.jpg
 
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Here comes the beauty of having A4 sized acrylic... to create side walls of the enclosure, we cut acrylic into 4 equal pieces:

20210903_200238.jpg
 
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..as this is my fifth pump being built - I have already made a profile allowimg me to drill holes for Nema 17 holding screws:


screws. 20210903_203301.jpg
 
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This part is messy and I kind of hate doing it! But it needs to be done:

a cut-out for OLED screen, the screen itself is of rather irregular shape and is thin, so I have to cut a square window and engrave a shape inside it for the screen sit there.. Some manual filing/drilling and using Dremel tool would be needed.

20210903_205447.jpg
 
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OK, done now..

20210903_214038.jpg

20210903_214248.jpg

This OLED screen does not have any meaningful way of being attached (no screw holes), it will be held by gorilla tape - which actually does a pretty good job!
 

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Well done mate! I am impressed with your diy skills.
The only. Thing I personally would do differently is get all those perspex shapes cut by laser. This would almost make it a bolt on job
 
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Well done mate! I am impressed with your diy skills.
The only. Thing I personally would do differently is get all those perspex shapes cut by laser. This would almost make it a bolt on job
Thanks!

You may be able to cut (some parts) by laser - but I consider this a bit of "DIY cheating" :) Out of interest - how much would they charge for laser cutting in the US?

I made a DIY acrylic frag tank a while ago and made of mistake of ordering pre-cut acrylic (not laser cut though..). I ended up doing more work to trim those to correct size as they differed by as much as 3mm.. My parts are usually have about 0.5mm tolerance.

You also need to make drawings etc - I don't like wasting time in front of the computer (although computers is my main day job) , typically when I decide to build one of these devices, I invent/decide on sizes/shapes/plan as I go along..


And to asnwer the previous question - I provide all sizes in this thread, but there are no drawings:
- E.g. the rotary bit is cut with a 50mm holesaw, so the finished disk diameter is 47mm (holesaw takes quite a bit out in the process of cutting).
- the pivot was made using a 52mm sanding belt, therefore its (arch) diameter is approximatelt that
- and finally I cut A4 sheet into 4 equally sized pieces. A4 is 210mm/297mm, taking out 2mm for sawing - you can calculate the size of enclosure sides (104mm x 147mm)
- some parts for which size is not specified are size-free, i.e. you can make them larger or smaller.. for example the last piece in pivot assembly (made with M5 threaded rod) can be of any shape or size, it's purely aesthetic
 
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OK some polishing done and the shape is completed. I still need to drill a small hole on the side opposite to where shoulder bolt is..

20210902_192519.jpg

20210902_192505.jpg

20210902_192531.jpg
Just noticed a missing step that I forgot to publish:

I drilled a hole in the pivot arm (on the side opposite to where shoulder bolt goes). The hole is 8mm diameter going down half-way from top and then 5mm diameter further down. It's a bit tricky to make: I first drill a 5mm hole all the way down and then use the diamond drill bit (shown below) to enlarge it (as if using a dremel tool).

If you don't have a diamond drill bit similar to below, do not do the above in that order: if you drill a 5mm hole first and then try to enlarge it with a regular 8mm drill bit - you acrylic will most likely shutter into pieces.

If you have to use regular drill bits only - first drill the larger 8mm hole half way down and then continue with a small drill bit to finish off.



20210902_210806.jpg 20210903_223602.jpg

Then using a saw and a file I cut a channel 5mm wide - this is where the threaded rod will slide into.


20210902_211914.jpg

You can then see the small piece of aluminium tubing (8mm OD) that slides half way down into pivot and keeps the threaded rod firmly in place. This allows for easy insertion and extration of threaded rod in case you want to lift the pivot (e.g. to replace the tubing): you just unscrew holding bolts (on top), loosen the spring and lift the piece of aluminium tubing up (along the rod) - then the theaded rod can come out via 5mm channel in pivot arm.

20210903_194558.jpg
 
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I drilled holes for motor M3 screws using the pre-made profile... The hole diameter is 3.5mm.

20210904_075938.jpg

Then I drill a 22mm hole in the centre (there is a 3.5mm centre hole pre-drilled) - this is done with 22mm flat drill bit:

20210904_080739.jpg

The motor front has a central elevation piece with 22mm diameter - I just need a hole that's wide enough, this can be made wide than 22mm (say 24mm)...

20210904_081234.jpg
 
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M3 screws holding the motor are then made (you need to shorten them to 12m total length) and the rotary piece is attached. This allows me to earmark the position of the pivot hole (8mm).

20210904_183150.jpg

Once pivot is attached - I do the same for the sptring assembly (8mm hole)

20210904_184351 (1).jpg
 
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The rear wall receives C14 panel mount power connector and mini-USB connector. I then drill holes for fan and attach fan.
20210904_194546.jpg

20210904_194549.jpg
 
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Only now -when all necessary holes are drilled, I can dis-assemble all accessories and start gluing the box.

Generally you can drill/cut pieces out when the box is glued together, but it's much more difficult to do..

20210904_193323.jpg
 

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