DIY RO/DI Station

Sdoutreefer

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I just received my RODI unit from BRS and didn't completely think through on how I am going to plumb this up, and hook to a drain. I originally wanted to just make 'mobile' station on the outside of my house, hooking the RODI to my hose bib out there. My only new concern with that is having to bring in/out my system whenever I need water, which isn't that big of deal. I also am concerned with how I would mount the RODI while filling water tank on the outside of my house. I am leaning towards mounting the RODI in my garage, and just running hose from my hose bib when I am using the station. The only issue with that is my garage doesn't have any sort of drain...

Does anyone have any pictures of an outdoor RODI fill station? Or maybe just some creative ideas inside of the garage?
 
I am pretty sure the was a post thread from @d2mini with his setup outside.
Are you going to have a freeze concern in Idaho?
 
No pictures yet but I am building a water changing station in my utility room. Mounting the rodi plumbed into the feeds for the washing machine.
Plan is to have Rodi Waste water goes outside to a 275G tote that is also fed by the gutters of the house and to our chicken coop and horse trough, then Overflow goes into our pond. wife can also use the water in the tote for her garden.

we are on well water so we try to use it all as efficiently as possible

2x 60g white barrel plumbed and elevated on a stand, one for salt mix, one for fresh rodi.
Under that is 2x 35G barrels, one for fresh rodi for the gravity auto top off and one for Kalkwaser mix to be fed to the tank via doser. ATO and Kalk is plumbed thru the basement to my tank.

Its redundant having 2 freshwater barrels, one for storage and one for ATO but I want to always be able to make 120G in a hurry if I have to. My big system in approx 380G and that only gives me a 30% water change if there is an emergency.
 
Yes, freeze is a concern for sure. I would have to move the unit inside once fall hits.
That would cause me to change my plans.
The lines are small and don't succumb to head-pressure issues like a larger line would meaning you can run them longer or up a floor.
My fw storage is roughly 10 feet away from the RODI and the return line travels back 15 feet to the sump where the water runs to. I've had it as far as 25 feet away without issue. A person could also run an RODI from a basement up to a main floor.
To me the main goal with this is ideally to go a route that doesn't require you to lift pails if at all possible.
 
That would cause me to change my plans.
The lines are small and don't succumb to head-pressure issues like a larger line would meaning you can run them longer or up a floor.
My fw storage is roughly 10 feet away from the RODI and the return line travels back 15 feet to the sump where the water runs to. I've had it as far as 25 feet away without issue. A person could also run an RODI from a basement up to a main floor.
To me the main goal with this is ideally to go a route that doesn't require you to lift pails if at all possible.
I agree with this. do what you can to not to have to set up and take done.

I am trying to figure out how to simplify my WC but my mixing station is across the whole house. running two 1/4" lines for ATO and Kalk dosing is easy, But something like a 3/4" feed and drain line to do water changes is a different story in my book. feasible yea, and it is the plan eventually
 
I agree with this. do what you can to not to have to set up and take done.

I am trying to figure out how to simplify my WC but my mixing station is across the whole house. running two 1/4" lines for ATO and Kalk dosing is easy, But something like a 3/4" feed and drain line to do water changes is a different story in my book. feasible yea, and it is the plan eventually
100%. Do it right the first time.
mine actually also includes a 1/2" line that I attach a small maintenance pump so I can also use the fw supply to fill my ato reservoir or with a valve turn go straight to the sump so it can double as a NSW mixing vessel.
Planning for your needs is the best way to go about this and if at all possible a way that makes it easier for you.
 
I just have the tap adapter hooked up the the kitchen tap and place the system off to the side

You could just do that, and have the desired connector attached to the tubing, connect when you need it, and disconnect when finished.
 
As for mounting:

Depending on your siding you could use a masonry bit to predrill holes in concrete, then use rod anchors that will fit the hole size, threading nuts on and off as needed

Hope that helps
 

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