DIY Rock Tutorial/Info Thread (Rocks, walls, floors, etc.)
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prsnlty
Jackie
Would the algae make the water test read incorrectly for ph? Water temp is 80. I'm running a bio wheel 400 with only carbon in it as well. It has been 3 weeks since placing the rock in the cure tank. Ph has been reading 8.4 daytime and 7.9 night time for 4 days. Does this seem right?
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Daniel@R2R
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prsnlty
Jackie
I am on my second and final batch of rock. This batch I really should have done 1st because it's holding up my build. Because in this one I have overflows and my return column.
The overflows in progress:
The blue tape is to keep those areas clean while rocking.
The column in progress:
Jackie
The overflows in progress:
The blue tape is to keep those areas clean while rocking.
The column in progress:
Jackie
prsnlty
Jackie
I know it's been a while since the last post. Sorry, been super busy. However I just wanted to add a little info.
Maybe it's because of where I live (N. C. Florida), time of year(very hot and 50% rainy) or because without fail I change the water every single day, but my rock cures in 2.5 -3 weeks! And you will also know it's cured by algae beginning to grow on the rock. I have my cure tank outside in the weather but not direct sun with a slight covering. No immediate cover over the tank or no heater. I do have a hob marineland bio wheel 400 with only the standard carbon filter on it. Next thing is I get a bottle of bio spira and a bottle of api stress zyme, change water to 1.019 saltwater and I get one cube of mysis (a hole grocery store shrimp takes too long imo) and dump it all in with filter still running. I run my basic tests each day. My 55g tank of rock is cycled and live in 3-4 days on average. I thought you might be interested to hear this :)
Also to note, before changing it over to SW (cuz I'm HA paranoid) I add 2 cups of hydrogen peroxide to the water and let it sit overnight to kill the algae. Then empty 3/4 of the water.
In my case I did not leave my overflows or return column in to go live because I needed to install them and they would dry out.
Here is a pic of the overflows and return column installed.
Maybe it's because of where I live (N. C. Florida), time of year(very hot and 50% rainy) or because without fail I change the water every single day, but my rock cures in 2.5 -3 weeks! And you will also know it's cured by algae beginning to grow on the rock. I have my cure tank outside in the weather but not direct sun with a slight covering. No immediate cover over the tank or no heater. I do have a hob marineland bio wheel 400 with only the standard carbon filter on it. Next thing is I get a bottle of bio spira and a bottle of api stress zyme, change water to 1.019 saltwater and I get one cube of mysis (a hole grocery store shrimp takes too long imo) and dump it all in with filter still running. I run my basic tests each day. My 55g tank of rock is cycled and live in 3-4 days on average. I thought you might be interested to hear this :)
Also to note, before changing it over to SW (cuz I'm HA paranoid) I add 2 cups of hydrogen peroxide to the water and let it sit overnight to kill the algae. Then empty 3/4 of the water.
In my case I did not leave my overflows or return column in to go live because I needed to install them and they would dry out.
Here is a pic of the overflows and return column installed.
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Aquariums To Go
New Member
Wow, those columns are fantastic. I get the gist of how you did it with your clever jig. Can you give a us a bit more info on how you did it? How you made your jig? Did you cement the column then apply the jig, or somehow feed the cement into the jig?
prsnlty
Jackie
Thank you :)
I could've swore I did a diy on them on one of my threads but I guess not. Might have been somewhere else. I created a jig using an idea from someone on You Tube but it didn't work like he said (at least not for me). I made the original jig and column and not only was it a real pain but the column was super heavy. Too heavy to place on a bulkhead and had to rethink the column. All the pics were on my cell and my SD card fried so hopefully they backed up on my Google account. I'm going to go look and see what I have and I'll come back and post it here. The overflow columns are different than the return column also. No jig for them ;)
prsnlty
Jackie
DIY ROCK RETURN COLUMN:
Pt1.
At first I tried this with the plans off a You Tube Tutorial. That does not work for returns!!! Too heavy on the bulkheads.
Here is a of pic of what NOT TO DO.
I wound up scrapping this column due to weight mainly. This being said I will show you how to do this right.
For the column jig:
You will need a tall enough piece of 6" (1/3 the height of your return) pvc, a length of 3/4" pvc a table saw with a thin cutting blade on it a 3" pvc pipe the height of the return a pvc toilet seating ring, pvc primer and glue, duct tape and plastic wrap.
NOTE: You may have to go to a plumbing supply place for 6" pipe and if you will be doing overflows also count that in too. Be warned... Most plumbing suppliers only sell it in 10' and 20' foot lengths ask if they have scraps.
Cut long ways the 3/4" pipe down the center to make 2 halves then cut to 2" longer than the 6" pipe section. Use the purple pvc cleaner for the edges of the 3/4" halves and the inside of the 6" tube. Cut the 6" tube exactly in half. Then glue the halves down starting at the very edge. This takes time! You have to hold each piece or two until set. You do not want them to come loose.
Put the finished halves together and Duct tape snugly on one seam. Add a length of duct tape to one side of the other.
Cut about 3 pieces of plastic food wrap twice as long as your jig. Set aside. place the toilet seating and 3" pipe together and stand on a covered flat surface.
On the inside of the jig lay out the plastic wrap so it hangs over both openings and covers all the pipe. This can be a little frustrating. Painters tape to temporarily hold to the outside is ok.
Now place the jig over the pipe and toilet seating. Adjust to be sure you have even spacing between all the way around.
Pt1.
At first I tried this with the plans off a You Tube Tutorial. That does not work for returns!!! Too heavy on the bulkheads.
Here is a of pic of what NOT TO DO.
For the column jig:
You will need a tall enough piece of 6" (1/3 the height of your return) pvc, a length of 3/4" pvc a table saw with a thin cutting blade on it a 3" pvc pipe the height of the return a pvc toilet seating ring, pvc primer and glue, duct tape and plastic wrap.
NOTE: You may have to go to a plumbing supply place for 6" pipe and if you will be doing overflows also count that in too. Be warned... Most plumbing suppliers only sell it in 10' and 20' foot lengths ask if they have scraps.
Cut long ways the 3/4" pipe down the center to make 2 halves then cut to 2" longer than the 6" pipe section. Use the purple pvc cleaner for the edges of the 3/4" halves and the inside of the 6" tube. Cut the 6" tube exactly in half. Then glue the halves down starting at the very edge. This takes time! You have to hold each piece or two until set. You do not want them to come loose.
Put the finished halves together and Duct tape snugly on one seam. Add a length of duct tape to one side of the other.
Cut about 3 pieces of plastic food wrap twice as long as your jig. Set aside. place the toilet seating and 3" pipe together and stand on a covered flat surface.
On the inside of the jig lay out the plastic wrap so it hangs over both openings and covers all the pipe. This can be a little frustrating. Painters tape to temporarily hold to the outside is ok.
Now place the jig over the pipe and toilet seating. Adjust to be sure you have even spacing between all the way around.
prsnlty
Jackie
This is what it should look like.
Pt2:
Make your rock! filling this small space can be a little tricky. You want a rock mix that is only with semi porosity or it'll break apart. Here is how I did mine.
(I use a 2lb walmart sour cream container for cup reference.) This mix is enough for 1 section and a little extra. I keep a semi wet sand tub available to make rocks with left over mix.
1 1/2 cup of crushed coral (feed store crushed oyster shell), 1/2 cup sand, 1 1/4 cup white portland cement. Mix well. Add rodi water while mixing in small amounts untill wet but not soupy or crumbly. It should clump in your hand. Add only 1 cupped handful of small size salt crystals. The kind used for water softner systems but not the pellets. Mix into mix quickly.
To Fill:
Do this by hand, it's just easier! Put it in around to cover the bottom about an inch minimum but it can and should be uneven. Then here and there add some pieces of salt. Not too much or when it dissolves you'll see too much of the pipe. You can simply add a larger chunk of salt sporadically. Now add more mix. Tamp the pipe to make sure it's packing in pretty good. Fill untill you reach the top of the 6" pipe not the 3/4", Pull up the plastic wrap here and there to make sure it isn't bunching into the rock mix and make the top level. Let set for 36 hours. BE PATIENT!
prsnlty
Jackie
Pt3
Open one taped side and pry away WITHOUT losing your placement. Mark it if you have to. Plastic wrap may be stuck in the cement here and there. It's fine. It will come off later.
Remove the plastic wrap and replace with new. Putting the jig back on will be a tight fit but it does go on. Make sure it snaps back in place and overlaps the completed bottom section by about a 1/2". Smooth tight the plastic wrap and tape on the outside. Repeat Pt2 for filling it then do the same for the last lower column section...remove jig. Search for plastic wrap pieces and remove.
When all 3 sections are set, 3/4 fill a tub or something the piece will fit in and soak it in rodi water for 6-8 hours to melt out the salt. Then let it aur dry (not in sun but outside) for a few days.
CURE in a tank of fresh water, changing all water daily until 8.4 ph is reached for 3-4 days. The 1st day you reach 8.4 don't change the water. The next day do so. Then see if it holds more than 2 days. If it does don't change the water. If it will hold the ph you will notice a greening tint to your water or rock. It's now cured.
Here is mine on the left of the overflows.
Open one taped side and pry away WITHOUT losing your placement. Mark it if you have to. Plastic wrap may be stuck in the cement here and there. It's fine. It will come off later.
Remove the plastic wrap and replace with new. Putting the jig back on will be a tight fit but it does go on. Make sure it snaps back in place and overlaps the completed bottom section by about a 1/2". Smooth tight the plastic wrap and tape on the outside. Repeat Pt2 for filling it then do the same for the last lower column section...remove jig. Search for plastic wrap pieces and remove.
When all 3 sections are set, 3/4 fill a tub or something the piece will fit in and soak it in rodi water for 6-8 hours to melt out the salt. Then let it aur dry (not in sun but outside) for a few days.
CURE in a tank of fresh water, changing all water daily until 8.4 ph is reached for 3-4 days. The 1st day you reach 8.4 don't change the water. The next day do so. Then see if it holds more than 2 days. If it does don't change the water. If it will hold the ph you will notice a greening tint to your water or rock. It's now cured.
Here is mine on the left of the overflows.
prsnlty
Jackie
I forgot to mention. I also purchased a knockout 3" pipe cap. Now cut a round hole in it the diameter of your return pipe. Smooth and really clean the top of the 3" center pipe and add silicone to the edge. Pop the cap in place. The height of your column should be only to the bottom (or 2" from the tank top) of the frame of the tank. This is important! Your return pipe will stick out and needs to just a little because you will need the top of the elbow just under the water surface and a small anti-syphon hole under it drilled 1" lower tank water level. So if power goes out you're safe. (I put 2 holes in mine)
As you see in the picture I have a rock cap on my pipe. I placed my return elbows in the center of the jig standing up and added uneven rock mix around it. Pretty simple ;)
As you see in the picture I have a rock cap on my pipe. I placed my return elbows in the center of the jig standing up and added uneven rock mix around it. Pretty simple ;)
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prsnlty
Jackie
The gap between the cap and column is actually less than it looks and will fill with coraline in time so it's all good.
ASSEMBLY:
Place your return pipe (cut too long) in your bulkhead. Carefully add the column over it. Mark and cut the pipe1/2-3/4" higher than the column top. Remove column. Glue pipe in. Add a good solid ring of silicone around the bottom center of the toilet seating ring. VERY CAREFULLY put column in place (centered) over return pipe. No water goes inside of this column.... then, add silicone around the edge of the cutout on the cap and put your top in place. Be sure the 1st elbow is primed and wet glued when you do this. The outflow end elbow does not need to be glued so you can adjust the flow direction.
Let this set a couple of days before adding water.
That's it. Enjoy :)
ASSEMBLY:
Place your return pipe (cut too long) in your bulkhead. Carefully add the column over it. Mark and cut the pipe1/2-3/4" higher than the column top. Remove column. Glue pipe in. Add a good solid ring of silicone around the bottom center of the toilet seating ring. VERY CAREFULLY put column in place (centered) over return pipe. No water goes inside of this column.... then, add silicone around the edge of the cutout on the cap and put your top in place. Be sure the 1st elbow is primed and wet glued when you do this. The outflow end elbow does not need to be glued so you can adjust the flow direction.
Let this set a couple of days before adding water.
That's it. Enjoy :)
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Justin1997
Active Member
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prsnlty
Jackie
Type II is better. And unless it says white it comes as a med/dark grey. You can call your local cement company/plant and they will have it or tell you where to find it. It's going to be a 90lb bag for about $22
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