Does anyone know what this is????

puccie1

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My puffer came down with this over night this is a new tank set up I had running about 5 days, had trouble early with fish dying so I broke it down and bleached the hell out of it. Used Fritz bacteria to cycle along with crush coral with live bacteria. Can the new tank withstand copper power treatment at this time?



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Not sure what’s wrong with the fish but yeah there definitely could be residue bleach leaking into the water. I would add a decent amount of chlorine neutralizer like Seachem Prime just to be safe
 
Parameters? What’s ammonia at
zero ammonia, thinking of taken sponge out of my big tank and placing in my 75 gallon tank for a day before introducing copper power to strenghten the bacteria bed. and then slowly add copper power for 5 days to bring it up to 2.25.
 
My puffer came down with this over night this is a new tank set up I had running about 5 days, had trouble early with fish dying so I broke it down and bleached the hell out of it. Used Fritz bacteria to cycle along with crush coral with live bacteria. Can the new tank withstand copper power treatment at this time?



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This is bacterial and fish should be treated right away using seachem Kanaplex, First change water and also add Air stone during treatment. What substrate are you using ?
Not advise to use any substrate and/or rock when using copper which absorbs it and never ramp it which allows disease to take hold of the fish. Again treat with broad spectrum treatment which would be Kanaplex and in a separate tank or container
How are you testing the water ?
 
This is bacterial and fish should be treated right away using seachem Kanaplex, First change water and also add Air stone during treatment. What substrate are you using ?
Not advise to use any substrate and/or rock when using copper which absorbs it and never ramp it which allows disease to take hold of the fish. Again treat with broad spectrum treatment which would be Kanaplex and in a separate tank or container
How are you testing the water ?
with test kit, everything is in balance.
 
with test kit, everything is in balance.
Think it was more of type/brand of test kit question, to gauge an accuracy range of the test results

Edit: I was gonna ask what would be the reason for copper but I think you’re pointed in a better direction now.
 
with test kit, everything is in balance.

Hanna products are usually the best are getting more accurate parameter numbers.

Salifert for cal, and mag. Although I have good results even in these parameters with Hanna.

Salinity with Tropic Marin hydrometer.

But yes this looks bacterial as Vette stated. I usually see these types of issues when the tank has really dirty water.


Edit: how is the fish breathing? How’s it eating if at all? Does it still get up to swim?
 
My puffer came down with this over night this is a new tank set up I had running about 5 days, had trouble early with fish dying so I broke it down and bleached the hell out of it. Used Fritz bacteria to cycle along with crush coral with live bacteria. Can the new tank withstand copper power treatment at this time?



0 2.jpeg
Weird looking lesion. Is it just around the right eye?

Looks like it could be bacterial, but those rarely just start up out of nowhere, they usually start from some skin injury.

It isn’t from bleach, that would have shown up immediately….
 
Weird looking lesion. Is it just around the right eye?

Looks like it could be bacterial, but those rarely just start up out of nowhere, they usually start from some skin injury.

It isn’t from bleach, that would have shown up immediately….
I think I know what that is after thinking about it, just bought him Tuesday night and when I got him home he started rubbing against rocks so I gave him a formalin bath for 20 minutes I think that what burnt his side of face. Boy I have so much bad luck in this hobby other day I was feeding my Blue Jaw trigger and gave him a piece of shrimp (human shrimp we eat) and he ate it look like it got stuck in his mouth and flipped over and died. On a Hydrogen peroxide dip is it 20 ml to 1 gallon of water? Thanks like always - Carl
 
I think I know what that is after thinking about it, just bought him Tuesday night and when I got him home he started rubbing against rocks so I gave him a formalin bath for 20 minutes I think that what burnt his side of face. Boy I have so much bad luck in this hobby other day I was feeding my Blue Jaw trigger and gave him a piece of shrimp (human shrimp we eat) and he ate it look like it got stuck in his mouth and flipped over and died. On a Hydrogen peroxide dip is it 20 ml to 1 gallon of water? Thanks like always - Carl
Formalin is possible and needs to be carefully used precisely
 
I think I know what that is after thinking about it, just bought him Tuesday night and when I got him home he started rubbing against rocks so I gave him a formalin bath for 20 minutes I think that what burnt his side of face. Boy I have so much bad luck in this hobby other day I was feeding my Blue Jaw trigger and gave him a piece of shrimp (human shrimp we eat) and he ate it look like it got stuck in his mouth and flipped over and died. On a Hydrogen peroxide dip is it 20 ml to 1 gallon of water? Thanks like always - Carl

20 ml of 3% H2O2 per 1 gallon of SW.

So you’re not QT’ing any fish? Just baths?

And what are you using to measure ammonia?
 
I think I know what that is after thinking about it, just bought him Tuesday night and when I got him home he started rubbing against rocks so I gave him a formalin bath for 20 minutes I think that what burnt his side of face. Boy I have so much bad luck in this hobby other day I was feeding my Blue Jaw trigger and gave him a piece of shrimp (human shrimp we eat) and he ate it look like it got stuck in his mouth and flipped over and died. On a Hydrogen peroxide dip is it 20 ml to 1 gallon of water? Thanks like always - Carl

Yes - a 30 minute dip with 3% peroxide is dosed at 20 ml per gallon.
 
1. this is heretical, but various people have looked at test kits, and there is not much difference between them when done accurately, i.e. following exact instructions, and IMHO, its a personal decision. I personally found Hanna test kits to be difficult to use and relatively more expensive. The results they give look impressive because they are 'digital' but besides the copper test kit, I don't see them as being a better at measuring ammonia than others (including API). I know this isn't a test kit debate session, so - I'm giving my experience, and anyone is free to use or not use whatever they like.
2. The ring lesion is odd - are you sure that there are no other patches of damage - I would agree with Kanaplex (or Neoplex) in a separate bare tank with a couple hiding places. Adding cycling bacteria may not be as effective in a tank being used with an antibiotic, and water changes may be a better idea. Is the other side of the fact the same? Is it worsening or getting better? Does the fish have any other symptoms.
3. The fact that you have lost many? fish in a 5 day period if I'm reading correctly suggests something else may be going on in this new of.a tank. Please post the results of your parameters not just that they are 'ok'. also - have you used any other medications that may be interacting/.Where did you get the rock, tank, etc.
4. As others have said - a separate treatment tank for nearly every medicine/cure is best, as it rules out problems like this where its unclear whether something is adsorbed onto the rick, and leaching.
5. I'm not a huge fan of dip (again personal choice). One thing you need to be careful of with H2O2 is it degrades (or can degrade) fairly quickly if not stored in a cool, tightly closed container.
6. As to the diagnosis, more pictures would be helpful. Also more information. What fish have died, how did you cycle the tank, again, the parameters. I would suggest the IF you're losing fish regularly after 5 days, its time to stop, regroup, and assess what's going on - and more information from you would helpful, losing 1 fish is a problem losing several means 'stop'. Puffers are not exactly the most hardy fish. As to this being a bacterial infection that developed 'overnight'. This is also somewhat odd, unless throughout the rest of the day, the fish kept getting worse and worse, If this is not the case, it's unclear why it just 'stopped'. I wonder if it's a stress coloration specific to this fish, a viral disease, or even a more common disease presenting in an odd way.
7; General advice. Again, please stop adding fish, especially fish that are somewhat delicate. Make sure that the source of your fish is reliable, does not store their fish in subtheraputic copper and does not routinely make sure that the parameters in your tank (whether a qt tank or display) match as close as possible to the source tank water.
8. To finally answer your original question. I would not use this tank with copper, but rather an empty tank without dead coral/rock. Use dimmed lighting and PVC pipe if you need hiding paces. That said your tank can. 'withstand' copper, but why are you adding it, etc etc.
9. As far as colorine bleach remaining on rock, etc. After using it, always rinse it well then add it to a tank with 2-3 times the recommended dose, rinse again, and id you're s5ill smelling bleach, repeat the process. Use a Chlorine test kit (from a pool test kit, the result should be near 0.
 

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