Dosing Coralfood with full Triton method
- Thread starter Kenpro
- Start date
- Tagged users None
Users Who Are Viewing This Thread (Total: 1, Members: 0, Guests: 1)
If they are clean and pure then they are fine. However if you are running the full Triton Method you do not need any additional feeds.
Ok thanks for a fast reply, when i start up the tank how much algae will i begin with and is there any mature kit i can provide to kickstart the system or should the refugium be the only thing to export nutrients from the beginning and maybe some al99 and some carbon after a while?
I have no idea how much you will begin with 
That depends on how much you can get hold of... What I will say is try to get as much as you can. If you are starting a new aquarium then the algae bed should mature along with the system during the initial cycle, just make sure that it has access to enough nutrients so it doesn't just die off.
That depends on how much you can get hold of... What I will say is try to get as much as you can. If you are starting a new aquarium then the algae bed should mature along with the system during the initial cycle, just make sure that it has access to enough nutrients so it doesn't just die off.Ok thanks, i have a couple of more questions before setting up the tank.
My lfs says that usually one algae species takes over in the refugium and the other ones dont make it. What species is good to use and how will i make them all thrive for a complete nutient export?
And how do i control the nutrient level in the tank, just with lightning intensity and light time?
In a 60 gallon system i will use the new Philips coral care 190w led fixture, what fixture or light is a proven success over the refugium to outcompete the daylight from the Philips fixture. Want a clean and quite low nutrient display tank with Australian sps
Regards Ken
My lfs says that usually one algae species takes over in the refugium and the other ones dont make it. What species is good to use and how will i make them all thrive for a complete nutient export?
And how do i control the nutrient level in the tank, just with lightning intensity and light time?
In a 60 gallon system i will use the new Philips coral care 190w led fixture, what fixture or light is a proven success over the refugium to outcompete the daylight from the Philips fixture. Want a clean and quite low nutrient display tank with Australian sps
Regards Ken
And is it possible to feed a good quality pellets food to the fishes or does this build up to much unwanted things in the system vs if I feed only frozen food?
And what is the best way to prevent algae from the refugium to break free from the sump and ending up in the display tank and corals if i dont use any kind of filtersocks
And what is the best way to prevent algae from the refugium to break free from the sump and ending up in the display tank and corals if i dont use any kind of filtersocks
Yes normally one or two species become dominant and take up 90% of the fuge while the others tend to sit in the background waiting their turn. Local laws apply for keeping some species of Caulerpa but I would go for species like Proifera or Taxifolia.
Yes you can control the nutrients mainly by stocking levels and food amounts but also with lighting and photoperiod over the fuge, and not forgetting how often you harvest the algae.
I would recommend a T5 unit or perhaps look into one of the Kessil lights used in the BRStv video series test.
Good quality pellets are usually fine to use, they can increase the amount of Phosphates in the water if over fed.
You can use a weir comb to prevent algae from blocking the skimmer or making it's way up to the main tank.
Thanks for all help, if i use t5, any bulbs recommendations you can give for awesome results also how many bulbs in a 10 gallon refugium with 50 gallon display tank and average load?? Have looked at the kessil and it sure looks good
bdejong1112o
Active Member
I will throw my vote for the kessil light. That is what I am going to use on my fuge. Based on the excellent results from the BRS testing I dont see a downside. I also dont think its an area to go cheap or low light on since the triton method relies heavily on a good working fuge.
Disclaimer, i am currently working on my tank setup and plan to go full triton from day one. The kessil light is already in the plans but is based solely in the test results, reviewimg the data on the lamp and the need for super growth in the fuge.
Disclaimer, i am currently working on my tank setup and plan to go full triton from day one. The kessil light is already in the plans but is based solely in the test results, reviewimg the data on the lamp and the need for super growth in the fuge.
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2016
- Messages
- 664
- Reaction score
- 641
My refugium is only about 8 gallons of volume so not super large. Display has algae and I ran kessils but now have Mitras LX7's over it. I get some algae in the display but the snails and tomini tang do a lot of work on it.
@Tim@Triton Why do you recommend the specific species of algae instead of chaeto in the refugium? If I harvest the algae more often is there less dieback and also less nutrients in the tank or is more room for light to enter the algae and therefore faster growing rates? Just want to understand the system before I getting started
It's not that we recommend any species over another, we recommend as many different species as possible. What we want to make sure is that you have the most effective algae species suited to your system at any one time. Each species has different ideal parameters for them to thrive so Chaeto may not be the best algae for your system, if you only use Chaeto then you will never know. When starting a new system we recommend having as many different species as possible to give you the greatest chance at finding the one or two species that will become dominant in your system.
It is also known (although rare) that in some situations the ideal parameters can shift, this can be caused by seasonal changes such as grass pollen or other, causing an algae that may have been sitting in the background to come forward and become the dominant species. This indicates why it is important to use a full spectrum algae light capable of growing all species of macro algae and not just Chaeto.
How much you harvest and how often depends on your nutrient situation. If you have higher nutrients than you would like then you can increase harvest amounts as the algae will grow faster. If your nutrients are lower and stable then you may not need to harvest as much. If the algae mass becomes too great as to limit the flow through the refugium then you should harvest.
It is also known (although rare) that in some situations the ideal parameters can shift, this can be caused by seasonal changes such as grass pollen or other, causing an algae that may have been sitting in the background to come forward and become the dominant species. This indicates why it is important to use a full spectrum algae light capable of growing all species of macro algae and not just Chaeto.
How much you harvest and how often depends on your nutrient situation. If you have higher nutrients than you would like then you can increase harvest amounts as the algae will grow faster. If your nutrients are lower and stable then you may not need to harvest as much. If the algae mass becomes too great as to limit the flow through the refugium then you should harvest.
Ok, thanks. Then I know how to play with the system to get the right balance in the tank. Really good light, bulbs etc for several species of algae? Some here mentioned kessil 380, is this only for chaeto or is this a equal good light as t5:s for algae husbandry? I will have Philips new coral care 190watt fixture in the 50 gallon display, a 10 gallon refugium in the sump
Similar threads
