Dosing Nitrates and Phosphates

Salty Irishman

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Assuming you can get them adequately pure, yes.
I'm dosing the Loudwolf Sodium Nitrate mixed in RO/DI water @ 2ml/ day and Seachem Flourish Phosphorus @ 1ml/day. Been holding steady for months around N03=3 and P04=.04. Question is: Can I mix the two together in one container as I have a free dosing pump to then add both daily from that pump with no manual intervention.
Came upon this dosing regimen after a serious Dino infestation as a result of those numbers being undetectable for far to long!
 

motortrendz

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I'm dosing the Loudwolf Sodium Nitrate mixed in RO/DI water @ 2ml/ day and Seachem Flourish Phosphorus @ 1ml/day. Been holding steady for months around N03=3 and P04=.04. Question is: Can I mix the two together in one container as I have a free dosing pump to then add both daily from that pump with no manual intervention.
Came upon this dosing regimen after a serious Dino infestation as a result of those numbers being undetectable for far to long!
How much sodium nitrate did you min into the rodi to make your solution
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Also looking. I thought spectracide stump remover, pure potassium nitrate, was acceptable! I just bought some..... :/

I think people gravitated to potassium nitrate because freshwater folks use it, but I see no reason to dose potssium in seawater unless you know you need it. I never needed any.

I would not conclude that stump remover is pure. Even if you use potassium nitrate, I'd recommend easily obtained food grade:


 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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zalick

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I think people gravitated to potassium nitrate because freshwater folks use it, but I see no reason to dose potssium in seawater unless you know you need it. I never needed any.

I would not conclude that stump remover is pure. Even if you use potassium nitrate, I'd recommend easily obtained food grade:



Thanks Randy. I don't need the potassium, so I'll switch over to sodium nitrate!

The MSDS on spectracide stump remover does say 100% potassium nitrate.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Thanks Randy. I don't need the potassium, so I'll switch over to sodium nitrate!

The MSDS on spectracide stump remover does say 100% potassium nitrate.

That only means it is the only ingredient, not that there aren’t impurities in that ingredient.
 

zalick

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That only means it is the only ingredient, not that there aren’t impurities in that ingredient.

Thanks for the clarification. There are many posts on the various cites saying that's all we need to know it's pure and reef safe. Hopefully people find this answer from you when searching in the future!
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Thanks for the clarification. There are many posts on the various cites saying that's all we need to know it's pure and reef safe. Hopefully people find this answer from you when searching in the future!

it may be perfectly reef safe, but it is only the accumulated experience of reefers that indicates safety.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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On the meaning of purity, folks may find this interesting:

 

dvp95

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Randy- Question for you. From an older thread (https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/trisodium-phosphate-dosing-math.354337/) I purchased trisodium phosphate from amazon ().

It brings up my phosphate levels nicely. However, I have now noticed that it bleaches both of my montis and I think that the TSP dosing is the culprit.

1. The first time I used it, I started dosing that and stump remover to get my N around 2-4 and P ~ 0.04. Levels were stable for a couple weeks then I left for vacation. When I got back my stylo, and both montis (all I have other than LPS and softies- new 8 month tank) were all dying and my other LPS/softies were growing nicely. I was not sure if it was tissue necrosis or whatever but eventually the stylo died and both montis were algae covered and bleached. I stopped all of my dosing which I started to combat algae (worked nicely). Once that was stopped both montis started to come back. One made a full recovery and the other slowly coming back.

2. I was worried about my N and P being 0 and the start of another algae outbreak so I started dosing again cause I didnt know if that first problem was due to the dosing or not. Same thing happened where both montis were unhappy. I stopped it for a period and they started to recover. Over the past month I have been dealing with cyano and GHA with my levels at 0 again.

3. This time I dosed only the stump remover and tried to feed more to get my phosphates up naturally. Occasionally it would be over 0 but mostly 0. Montis recovered. I kept at it for about 3 weeks with dosing nitrates only. Over the past 2 weeks I slowly introduced the TSP again and started seeing monti problems because I hate pouring food in there just to get the levels up to combat algae.

My problem/question: I am going to stop dosing TSP to see if the montis improve but is this due to the fact that my montis do not like TSP or phosphates in general? My levels are never above 0.04.

Summary: Dealing with Cyano (part is low flow problem, I know) and GHA. Trying to keep nutrients up. TSP dosing I think is the culprit and causing my montis to be unhappy.
 

madweazl

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...

3. This time I dosed only the stump remover and tried to feed more to get my phosphates up naturally. Occasionally it would be over 0 but mostly 0. Montis recovered. I kept at it for about 3 weeks with dosing nitrates only. Over the past 2 weeks I slowly introduced the TSP again and started seeing monti problems because I hate pouring food in there just to get the levels up to combat algae.

Are there any fish in the tank? You aren't just pouring food in there if something is eating it. I'm not understanding the reluctance to add additional food to the tank but the acceptance of adding the phosphate directly; especially when one seems to be promoting growth while the other method isn't.
 

dvp95

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Nitrates stay 2-3 consistently daily. Food is give 2-3 times a day for 7 fish, 200g total volume. If i do more phos does not go up from just feeding. One day i may get something like 0.003-0.006ppm but usually just 0s. I only get a reading on the ultra low hanna checker if i dose
 

dvp95

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Does tsp vs phos nitrate for dosing matter? Is one preferred? My skimmer is on the lowest. I understand reducing nutrient exporting but it seems tsp dosing hurts the montis. I have stopped the tsp as of last night to see if it true and am keeping the nitrates at 2-3 with the stump remover. Lights and everything else is the same.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Does tsp vs phos nitrate for dosing matter? Is one preferred? My skimmer is on the lowest. I understand reducing nutrient exporting but it seems tsp dosing hurts the montis. I have stopped the tsp as of last night to see if it true and am keeping the nitrates at 2-3 with the stump remover. Lights and everything else is the same.

I don’t understand the question, but trisodium phosphate is a fine additive if pure enough.

Im not a fan of stump remover which lacks purity assurances that food grade provides.
 

dvp95

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I am just trying to find out if the tsp is the problem specifically or just phosphates in general. Maybe it is the stump remover? It just seems to be correlating with the tsp dosing but it very well could be the stump remover. Should i switch to sodium nitrate? Something is happening when dosing stump remover and tsp and it is hurting the montis. Thats my situation
 
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Randy Holmes-Farley

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I am just trying to find out if the tsp is the problem specifically or just phosphates in general. Maybe it is the stump remover? It just seems to be correlating with the tsp dosing but it very well could be the stump remover. Which formulation for nitrates do you recommend?

I don’t think there can be anything wrong with dosing phosphate or nitrate unless they drive growth of something that depletes something else. It is not unusual when dosing one for the other to get too low and, if your issue relates to dosing at all, I think that the most likely explanation, despite tests thst might suggest otherwise.

you can fine food grade sodium or potassium nitrate online.
 

becon776

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wow. i am loving this thread. i consistently read 0.00 or 0.01 on Hanna checker for PO4. NO3 atm is @ 2-3ppm. My Alk and Ca consumption is virtually non existent. i cannot grow chaeto despite a HUGE fuge and H380. (3weeks into brightwell chaetogrow) This build was designed to be full triton but havent gotten off the runway in over a year. my easy sps (pocci) are bland and hanging on but def not flourishing. i feed tank frozen mutliple times per day.
i have a Spare Dos still in cellophane for when i planned on starting cor7 (on hand) but have not been able to get off the runway. battled Dinos twice with long blackout (pre sps). skimmer has not run in a week and took photoperiod in fuge to only 2hrs.
I have po4 and no3 brightwell on hand. have to ability to procure lab grade chemicals as i am a science teacher.

how should i proceed? i feel like I am one ahah moment from this tank being figured out.
 

Mikefish87

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I was dosing nitrates [zero'd out - and zero'd out phosphates as well] and I decreased my refugium light period and the phosphate came up as I continued to dose nitrates. I also have always overfed, and I ran my skimmer with the collection cup draining back into the tank. I even overstocked my tank and couldn't get nitrate to raise. Once I shortened by refugium time enough, they began to balance and I could control nutrient levels by upping or dropping the light time.

Everyone has issues with too high of nutrients, but i've had too low since the start in this hobby =S
I have a bottom out issue on my system also.... its gotten to a detrimental point. no matter what i do i cannot get my levles up. Ill have to try adjusting my refugium lightng
 
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