Emperor Angelfish Spots

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bonesreef

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I've had a lot of success with it over the past few years... However I'll give cupramine a go for the Emp.

I know that your not suppose to use Prime with Cupramine. I normally add Prime to my RODI...but since you can't mix the two...should I worry about chlorine?
 

Humblefish

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I know that your not suppose to use Prime with Cupramine. I normally add Prime to my RODI...but since you can't mix the two...should I worry about chlorine?

You should not need Prime with RODI water. RODI is completely stripped of everything, including chlorine. Do you mean you use tap water??
 

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If the emp is eating and swimming well and the only thing that seems off is the spots, then I would suggest to leave him alone or get him to more comfortable environment.
 

charleslotz

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Humble fish ,


For my own education, I was under the impression that fresh water dip will identify the culprit, ich or valvet as the parasite will leave its host and drop to the bottom of the bucket and can be inspected after visually , without a microscope . This is generally how I identify ich ( never had valvet, I think, touch wood).

I personly use tank transfer method, and fish less display (6 weeks) would you suggest this to be the most effective,.... And I also feed dr d , medicated foods during quarantine ... When I can as most fish don't take to it easly.

Is this a good method or is this even correct?

Some suggest it's almost impossible to have a ich free tank unless you quarantine every piece of coral or rock you add to your display and the best cure is prevention with water quality and husbandry...

I know we are digressing a bit , but would love to have your opinion on the two points..?


Interesting information on the copper effects, I would be interested to read further on that subject.
 
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Humble fish, I have a bulk reef RODI, however I've always been under the impression that RODI does not remove chlorine(which is part of the reason why they now sell a chloramine pre-filter which is installed before your RO unit).
If I'm wrong on this, I've been wasting money on Prime for years...lol
 

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Chloramines are different than chlorine. They will severely lessen the life of the ro filter thus are prefiltered.
 
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Naiad,
Thanks for posting. :) I'm doing a little reading right now..and thats exactly what I just read.
Would there of been any harm over the years of adding prime to my RODI?
 
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sc50964,
The Emp is acting normal for the most part...however his breathing is slightly labored on his right side. Not sure if that warrants giving copper a try, still trying to decide.
 

Humblefish

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For my own education, I was under the impression that fresh water dip will identify the culprit, ich or valvet as the parasite will leave its host and drop to the bottom of the bucket and can be inspected after visually , without a microscope . This is generally how I identify ich ( never had valvet, I think, touch wood).
All life stages of external parasites (ich, velvet, brook, uronema) are invisible to the naked eye. Even if exposed to FW. However, you will see worms (ex. gill flukes) fall out and turn white once exposed to FW. Those are large enough to be seen.
I personly use tank transfer method, and fish less display (6 weeks) would you suggest this to be the most effective,.... And I also feed dr d , medicated foods during quarantine ... When I can as most fish don't take to it easly.

Is this a good method or is this even correct?
TTM is an excellent QT protocol and the best method for eradicating ich IMO. I dose Prazipro at the onset of transfers 2 & 4 in order to also deworm the fish. However, since TTM does not treat velvet, brook, uronema, bacterial infections, etc. I advise observation for another 2-4 weeks after TTM completes.
Some suggest it's almost impossible to have a ich free tank unless you quarantine every piece of coral or rock you add to your display and the best cure is prevention with water quality and husbandry...

I know we are digressing a bit , but would love to have your opinion on the two points..?
I isolate any new coral/invert to a fishless frag tank I maintain (pic below). For 76 days. Just cheap T5 lighting, Koralia powerhead, HOB powerfilter, heater, rock/sand and a frag rack gets the job done. ;)

 

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Humble fish, I have a bulk reef RODI, however I've always been under the impression that RODI does not remove chlorine(which is part of the reason why they now sell a chloramine pre-filter which is installed before your RO unit).
If I'm wrong on this, I've been wasting money on Prime for years...lol

Whatever the sediment filter/carbon block does not take out, the membrane/DI resin will. What may be happening is the presence of chloramine is greatly reducing the life span of your filters. Have you checked the TDS lately of your RODI? How often do you change filters?
 
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TDS reads zero as it exits, and goes in around 16.
I change my filters out after 4ooo gallons, and di resin as needed(which is normally every 2000 gallons).
 

Humblefish

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TDS reads zero as it exits, and goes in around 16.
I change my filters out after 4ooo gallons, and di resin as needed(which is normally every 2000 gallons).

So long as your TDS always read 0, you have no reason to add Prime or any other chemical to your output water.
 

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An old thread by bonesreef that I just happened onto. If still around, what was the ultimate outcome/solution for your Emperor? The picture of yours very closely resembles mine, and I'm grappling for a solution. Mine had white stringy poop, no flukes during fwd, and just started dose 2 of Prazipro yesterday, which doesn't look to be helping yet. Thanks.

Mine:

Sick Emperor.png


Yours:

Screen Shot 2020-07-02 at 8.54.26 AM.png
 

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Charleslotz,
Thank you very much for your reply. Your experience sounds very similar to mine indeed...and my Emp has just started to show signs of HLLE. The QT area he's in is 40gallons, however the entire QT setup is close to 140gallons of water(so this could cause stress being he is around 8"). My display tank is just under 400gallons and I think I may do what you suggest and put him in. I know he's clean of everything else...and at the moment there are no aggressive fish in the display to cause him harm.
Where do you purchase pineapple sponges from??
Once again thank you and everyone who has taken the time to reply!

HLLE is diet issue for the most part. try these items: LRS frozen food plus liquid vitamins and trace elements. PS: are you using an inexpensive carbon and not pre rinsing before you use it???
 

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I’m also going through this now with my emp. He’s about 5”. I’ve had him through a quaranteen that I just observed him. Didn’t treat with anything as he seemed great, after a couple months in the 310g main display he started to look just like the 2 emps mentioned above. I caught him with a fish trap, did a 10 min FW dip & have him bk in a 90g quaranteen. Would love to hear a follow up or anymore info anyone has? Other fish seem fine and hopefully stay that way.
 

vetteguy53081

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I’m also going through this now with my emp. He’s about 5”. I’ve had him through a quaranteen that I just observed him. Didn’t treat with anything as he seemed great, after a couple months in the 310g main display he started to look just like the 2 emps mentioned above. I caught him with a fish trap, did a 10 min FW dip & have him bk in a 90g quaranteen. Would love to hear a follow up or anymore info anyone has? Other fish seem fine and hopefully stay that way.
Start with posting pics so we can see fish as there are Many possibilities
 

crackedcorn

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These pics might show the spots better. Look similar to the other 2 cases in the thread I believe

86A752C4-BB09-45F2-9DBE-6B32F0791A97.jpeg 137A7817-DC51-4AB8-BAB8-7088A4244C01.jpeg
 

When to mix up fish meal: When was the last time you tried a different brand of food for your reef?

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