Euphyllia not feeling ok / not opening fully ?

[Katze]

Hi everyone
I've bought an euphyllia about 2-3 weeks ago in that time line it was looking pretty good BUT
Last day I've done a waterchange (usual 10%) after that I measured a phosphate of 0.2-0.18 (+dosed 2,5 ml of nopox that day) the week before that one it was only 0.05-0.02
Also I'm not sure but the flow may not be the best had to move it 1x / week in it's current position, where was looking the best so far.
The question what causes this kind of closing up. And I need help resolving this. +everything looks nice other than this coral
current parameters:
Sal.: 1.025-1.026
PO4: 0.2
NO3: 40-30

Light setting: Maxspect ethereal
cool white: ~80%
blue: 90%
green: 30%
red: 30%
warm white: 30%
+ infos
-I did have 2 zoa polyps pop
-I did move my ricordea out of it's hospital container and is relatively close to the euphyllia
-I had to remove a calcinus elegans, since they harassed my zoas

Pictures:
-flow off (notice the white thing at it's mouth, maybe coral slime from stress ?)

flow on

 

[vetteguy53081]

I've got three questions 1st What PAR would you recommend ? I did some research, some said 50-150 and others 150- 250
2nd Which are the signs for too high flow or too low flow and the same with light.

3rd I'm starting to get interest in diping it would you recommend it and if yes what to dip in or it would worsten it's current state?

150-175 are good PAR range but assure you are using a PAR meter such as apogee and not a phone or general Meter which is a different PAR measurement

Too much flow- The polyps should noy be bouncing vigorously or bent over the skeleton. Too low- the hammer suddenly looks like a torch, sort of droopy.

Dipping is fine but may stress the coral which is why I dont jump at opportunity. Best dip is CoralRX or Revive

 

[hunterallen40]

I've got three questions 1st What PAR would you recommend ? I did some research, some said 50-150 and others 150- 250

I personally think torches can live anywhere in the 50-300 range, but they need to be adapted over time. I tend to keep my torches in ~250, and they seem to be just fine.

2nd Which are the signs for too high flow or too low flow and the same with light.

Too much light can lead to retracted polyps and bleaching, but I personally have not experienced a torch in too much light (that said, I have never tried putting a torch near the top of my reef). I highly doubt this is the issue.

Too much flow is pretty obvious. The tentacles retract, but they will be blown to one side nearly constantly. Ideal flow is hard to define, but the phrase "slow motion in real time" comes to mind.

3rd I'm starting to get interest in diping it would you recommend it and if yes what to dip in or it would worsten it's current state?

I would let your torch adjust before stressing it further with a dip. They don't like to be moved.

 

[Katze]

150-175 are good PAR range but assure you are using a PAR meter such as apogee and not a phone or general Meter which is a different PAR measurement

Too much flow- The polyps should noy be bouncing vigorously or bent over the skeleton. Too low- the hammer suddenly looks like a torch, sort of droopy.

Dipping is fine but may stress the coral which is why I dont jump at opportunity. Best dip is CoralRX or Revive

This is how it looked today, should it open more ?
Size: 2,5-1,5 inch wide skeleton

 

[vetteguy53081]

This is how it looked today, should it open more ?
Size: 2,5-1,5 inch wide skeleton

Looks good.

Heres some of mine

 

[Katze]

Looks good.

Heres some of mine

As it turned out today,... it's a paraancora !

 

[Katze]

Looks good.

Heres some of mine

Do you feed them and if yes what? Could that be a problem that I rarely feed it every (2 weeks) ?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Do you feed them and if yes what? Could that be a problem that I rarely feed it every (2 weeks) ?

I feed mine mysis shrimp 2x a week. Theyre not big on liquid supplements

 

[Katze]

I feed mine mysis shrimp 2x a week. Theyre not big on liquid supplements

Hi ! it still seems somewhat stressed. A day ago I've bought an Acan. Lord. and it looks healthy and so what can cause this stress (in the euphyllia)?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hi ! it still seems somewhat stressed. A day ago I've bought an Acan. Lord. and it looks healthy and so what can cause this stress ?

Can you post a pic of how it looks now under white lighting ?

 

[Katze]

Can you post a pic of how it looks now under white lighting ?

I'll take one in a minute
Also It is a paraancora not a torch

 

[vetteguy53081]

I'll take one in a minute
Also It is a paraancora not a torch

If this is the light provided- may be part of issue.
As a recall:
Assure moderate-med light and water flow
Assure phos and nitrate not elevated
Calcium above 380
salinity 1.025-1.026

 

[Katze]

If this is the light provided- may be part of issue.
As a recall:
Assure moderate-med light and water flow
Assure phos and nitrate not elevated
Calcium above 380
salinity 1.025-1.026

so move it to lower light conditions ? + Some tentacles seem to be popped out.

 

[vetteguy53081]

so move it to lower light conditions ? + Some tentacles seem to be popped out.

No- Lights seem ow in pics. They need medium light, not low but not extreme either

 

[Katze]

No- Lights seem ow in pics. They need medium light, not low but not extreme either

Okay so It seems to me that after having abot 6 hrs of lighing it shrivels up like it almost looks dead but after an hour it bounces back up it repeats this every day why is it like this ? Is this a bad thing?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Okay so It seems to me that after having abot 6 hrs of lighing it shrivels up like it almost looks dead but after an hour it bounces back up it repeats this every day why is it like this ? Is this a bad thing?

No but these corals are as mentioned photosynthetic and need light. . . at least 10 hours a day and like a tulip, because they need light, will close up and when dark and as soon as lights go on, they slowly open up again - This is their response to light

 

[Katze]

No but these corals are as mentioned photosynthetic and need light. . . at least 10 hours a day and like a tulip, because they need light, will close up and when dark and as soon as lights go on, they slowly open up again - This is their response to light

I mean my lights are usually on for 12 hrs a day that's why I'm asking and yes on 100% because a controller is very expensive to buy.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I mean my lights are usually on for 12 hrs a day that's why I'm asking and yes on 100% because a controller is very expensive to buy.

On that note, does your intensity stay steady or ramp? Either change in intensity or flow may cause this but as long as it opens back up- Good
Assure phosphate and nitrate and salinity have not climbed

 

[Katze]

On that note, does your intensity stay steady or ramp? Either change in intensity or flow may cause this but as long as it opens back up- Good
Assure phosphate and nitrate and salinity have not climbed

everything is stable as I said this closing happens once while the lights are on. And the intensity stays the same all day as I said I don't have a controller so I have to manually turn it off/on

 

[vetteguy53081]

everything is stable as I said this closing happens once while the lights are on. And the intensity stays the same all day as I said I don't have a controller so I have to manually turn it off/on

You should be good

 

[Katze]

You should be good

Hey ! So It's definetely not ok tonight I was curious to see my tank in the night and I've seen some gruesome stripping
so I tested quickly for PO4 and it is in the skyes 0.4. I have no idea what to do and so I need assistance next day I'm going to go to my lfs to test for Ca and Mg . Also I have no idea whether or not is my placement good or the chemistry but probably the last one. The thing is that it is definetely deteriorating in my experience (since I'm pretty sure that this is a newly lost area). I did not move it, it's in the same place for now over 2-3 weeks (the same place where I took the last one). If needed I could dip it in iodine. (medical grade)