Even rocks deserve another chance! Would you reuse old reef rock in your saltwater tank?

Would you reuse old reef rock in your saltwater tank?

  • I have successfully reused reef rock.

    Votes: 237 69.5%
  • I haven't, but I think you can reuse reef rock.

    Votes: 83 24.3%
  • You can, but it isn’t worth the bother to reuse reef rock.

    Votes: 9 2.6%
  • I would not recommend reusing reef rock.

    Votes: 7 2.1%
  • Other

    Votes: 5 1.5%

  • Total voters
    341

cdnco2004

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Didn't consider the possibility that old rock acquired might have absorbed copper. Unless source well known. Perhaps best to seed dry rock with live rubble and call it a day :(
Yeah I had not thought of that either. But its not hard to test after you do a bleach bath or what ever. Put the rock into a brute can with rodi or salt water, let sit for a week and test the water with a Hanna checker to see if there is any copper in the water.
 

GARRIGA

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Yeah I had not thought of that either. But its not hard to test after you do a bleach bath or what ever. Put the rock into a brute can with rodi or salt water, let sit for a week and test the water with a Hanna checker to see if there is any copper in the water.
My understanding as it pertains to copper and phosphates and other absorbed compounds that you can't always test for it since it needs to be leached out of the rock and a week might not be long enough. Could be wrong but if what you're saying is 100% valid then that would solve the issue although hard to do before it's acquired. Doubt the seller going through that hassle but at least on our end we don't put bad rock into the display and likely can find one seeking FOWLR wanting it. :thinking-face:
 

cdnco2004

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I have tested my rocks that I used previously in a hospital tank that had copper in them. I was able to verify if the rock still had copper by it leaching into water that I then tested. Also the Phosphates would be destroyed in a bleach bath but not copper.
 

KK's Reef

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Interesting topic.

I bought a bunch of pukani live rock (looks like pukani) from a tank breakdown this summer. I don't know if I'll ever need it, but it's hard to find nice rock so I bought it. The guy I bought it from left town on a Friday, and I wasn't able to pick up until Sunday. The rock sat in water with no flow and no heat for a couple of days. Since I've had it, it's been in a tub with a powerhead. I do a 100% water change every few weeks, or whenever I remember. I don't have a heater on it.

I changed the water this week and the phosphate is still high at 2.00. Is it common to leach out phosphate for this long? Am I pretty much killing beneficial bacteria by letting the temp drop down to the low 50's?
 

TannerC91

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I've got a large amount of rock from a few different sources(all were from previous reef tanks). I did the bleach method brs talks about. Just make sure to use plain bleach with no additives and properly rinse/dry. I soaked, rinsed, and dried 3 times with prime(dechlorinator) and airstone after the bleach bath. Then I let sit in Florida sun for a while. After, I cycled my rock in a brute for months doing a couple large water changes while working on my tank/stand. I added some bacteria from bottles and other established clean tanks. It was basically insta tank(ish) lights on immediately. Havent had a nutrient spike or issues yet 7 months in my nano and 3 in my 100g. It's doing so good I'm already full of acro frags dosing alk(in 100g) , nano is slowly phasing out to a plumbed in frag tank. My buddy used some of the rock as well with no issues. It's a process but I'd do it again with the amount of money I saved.
 

Mikeltee

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Currently in the process. Just hit 1 month and turned the light on. My nutrients are sky high from the leach. 1.0 phosphate and 60 nitrates. My CUC, tang and foxface are going to get a workout. The rock spent 10 days @6/1 bleach followed by 3 days of 1/1 vinegar followed by an hour of citric acid. Power washed after each cycle. 100% water changes every 5 days until last week. I should have had a skimmer while it was in the Brute. I highly recommend that. Cycled with Tims, Microbacter7, Microbacter Clean, and i just started to add AF Lifesource. I culture Tisbe, Tigger, and Apex pods as well as dose 150ml of phyto a day.
20231126_121550.jpg



Bonus pic of a lazy Clown hosting some clean sand. Dude misses his anemone! I think he's happy to be in his tank. I've had him in a barebottom 40g for 2 months.



20231204_154718.jpg
 
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Mikeltee

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Interesting topic.

I bought a bunch of pukani live rock (looks like pukani) from a tank breakdown this summer. I don't know if I'll ever need it, but it's hard to find nice rock so I bought it. The guy I bought it from left town on a Friday, and I wasn't able to pick up until Sunday. The rock sat in water with no flow and no heat for a couple of days. Since I've had it, it's been in a tub with a powerhead. I do a 100% water change every few weeks, or whenever I remember. I don't have a heater on it.

I changed the water this week and the phosphate is still high at 2.00. Is it common to leach out phosphate for this long? Am I pretty much killing beneficial bacteria by letting the temp drop down to the low 50's?
Yes you are not doing yourself any favors with low temps and they are probably dead and yes it will leach out until you skim it out or do 100% water changes every few days. I've been working on my rock for 2 months and it's at 1.0pho and 60nit. Nitrates haven't budged since cycle and phosphate has halved.
 

Mikeltee

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All of the time. I'm a firm believer that the rock and pores of the rock are the biological filtration of our ecosystems. That being said I am not a big fan of these man made "Real" "Life" or other names tossed on to ceramic, porcelain or cement based structures. I've been selling rock, breaking up rock, creating aquascapes for long enough to see the real difference that actual rock from the ocean is compared to what is commercially available with regularity these days.
That fake stuff weighs a ton as well. I have a few "arches" and some Marco. I'd estimate 4x the weight. Most of mine is natural.
 

Mikeltee

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I would not call that the "new common wisdom" just BRS current recommendations. Give it a few years and it will change again.
They changed it up and recommend dark curing rock now as seen in their new investigate where they took 16 tanks with 8 different methods for 16 weeks. Their best results came from dark cured rock. They threw the kitchen sink of problems at them all and the dark cure handled them the best. It was rather interesting. They took "diversity" samples and measured substances that make up >=1% of natural sea water and the results were interesting. They showed a method of using dry rock and gaining 90%+ diversity. I bit and bought a bag. It was $40, so much cheaper than TBS rock and no pests. After dealing with dinos, you become cautious and will experiment to give yourself the best chance of not getting them again.
 

Mikeltee

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I have tested my rocks that I used previously in a hospital tank that had copper in them. I was able to verify if the rock still had copper by it leaching into water that I then tested. Also the Phosphates would be destroyed in a bleach bath but not copper.
You are definitely not destroying all the Phosphates with bleach.
 

PeterErc

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Oh , I also use loudwolf sodium thiosulfate. A 4oz bottle makes enough chlorine remover that I will probably ever use. Also costs less than a bottled remover/neutralizer.
 

Richsoar

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When we built our 750g, upgrading from 400 a year ago we needed more live rock. I had collected 100's of lbs of rock over the years from other breakdowns. I also had about 400lbs of rock from my last tank crash. When the tank crashed (sump blew a seam and topoff came on and kept trying to refill it) we ended up with the 400lbs from the sump which were covered in dead zoas, xenia, clavularia, gsp, mushrooms. The other 300+ lbs had been sitting in buckets, tubs, milk crates on the side of the guest house for over 10 years accumulating all that mother nature could drop and pour on it.

We took a 150g rubbermaid tub and made a strong concentration of Citric Acid. Then Soaked the rock for 48 hours. We then pulled the rock out (and thankfully) put it on a tarp in the back yard to clean it off with a presure washer.

The Citric acid not only broken down all the dead life on the rock work, but it actually etched away the surface of the live rock - Getting rid of the coraline and algae on the rock. When we pulled the 700lbs of rock out of the tub I was blown away to find almost 30lbs of sand sitting in the bottom of the bin. The Citric Acid literally dissolved the surface off the rock.

When we started presure washing the rock it was like milk with calcium washing off. It took several rinses with the pressure washer. Then a soak in tap water, and another pressure washer.

When we filled up the tank with water for the first time there was still a very fine layer of silt that came off the rock but it cleared up in about 36 hours.

The rock was immaculately clean to start with and quickly grew all the appropriate crap and looked seasoned right away. We used 700lbs of fresh rock and 300+ lbs of active live rock.

750g - Biome in 24hrs 2.jpg


The brown, grey on this rock is a biome that developed within 24 hours of the rock going in the tank. 72 Hours after water was in the tank it was gone and never seen again.

750g - Citric Acid Sand Box.jpg



This is the sand created by acid washing the dead rock. There was no sand in the rock bins or tubs, this was all created by soaking the rock.


750g - Build Progress - Low Res  18.jpg



72 hours after filling - The 750g is just the display of a 1500g system. So when we added all the fresh live rock and water we just ran it for 24 hours then opened the valve to connect it to the system and added fish and corals immediately.

2023-07-31 20.43.47.jpg


6 months later.



Dave B
I've read of people using Citric Acid before but where did you come by it and how much do you use?
 

Dburr1014

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I changed the water this week and the phosphate is still high at 2.00. Is it common to leach out phosphate for this long? Am I pretty much killing beneficial bacteria by letting the temp drop down to the low 50's?
I seriously doubt you would kill off all the bacteria. There are so many strains and I'm sure some are tolerable to lower temps.
The po4 will leach until equalibrium to the water then stop until the water is changed or until it is at least lower than the rocks. It could take some time depending how much is bound.
 

GARRIGA

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I seriously doubt you would kill off all the bacteria. There are so many strains and I'm sure some are tolerable to lower temps.
The po4 will leach until equalibrium to the water then stop until the water is changed or until it is at least lower than the rocks. It could take some time depending how much is bound.
Perhaps lanthanum chloride will speed up the leeching of phosphates
 

mfinn

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I've used old rock so many times in the past it's hard to count them.
Some of the rock we used to have available to us just doesn't exist anymore.
The shapes and sizes ( of live rock) were extremely different than what is available now, so reusing old rock is pretty normal to me.
Bleach soak to remove dead organics and an acid soak ( supposed to remove some phosphate from the surface of the rock).
 

WalleyeGuy

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My only concern with the re-use of old rock would be if the previous use had been treated with copper or was in a tank that had a heavy metal issue like leached aluminum from something. I do not know if they is a way to make sure these possible heavy metal can be remove if present - that would be my concern, so would love to know if that is a valid concern or not
 

OTReefer

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One can help neutralize the acid with sodium bicarbonate or carbonate. I dump in a couple big boxes before it gets dumped.

I have questions

I do not know where or how the dry rock method got a bad rap.

Ugly stage where did that come from? Who coined that phrase

How many new aquarists that used dry rock and had the “ugly stage” blamed it on the rock. How many of the same people would have had the same issues using premium live rock, the best you can buy?

Poor maintenance, over feeding, troubled water chemistry along with bad advice given in forums, fixing one bad additive choice with another, blah blah blah

It’s not rocket science people have been successful for decades.
Seems now there are more failures with all the great equipment and BRS infinite wisdom
Amen
 

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    Votes: 20 13.8%
  • I wear reef gear primarily at fish events and my LFS.

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