Every Coral Added to Tank dies or browns out in 24 hrs

[oneilwiz]

Background:



I have started since last week to purchase corals listed below one or two pieces at a time. Before adding corals to the tank, I float them in the tank for 15 minutes followed by 30 minutes of drip acclimation. Once that is completed, I move on to dipping corals for 10 minutes following instructions on the reef dip bottle. Within 24 hours or less, they start to lose color, or they close up completely. I am stump as to what is causing this. I have sent off a water sample to ICP- Analysis to see what the root cause is. With all this process no lighting is on in the tank for at least 2 hours. This tank was broken down and transferred to my new home with a new sand bed and old live rock. Tank went through the whole cycling process.



Water Parameter tested Today:
Cal -541ppm
Ammonia: 0
Alk 8.1 dkh
Salinity: 1.024
MG 1650ppm
Phosphate: 0
Nitrate: unknown haven't test for

Age of Tank: Started July 5th, 2019 (Broken down from NYC to VA in July 2019)
Running the usual amount of Carbon by Aquaforest.
Live Rocks from previous build




Tank Habitat:

1 Powder Blue Tang

2 Clown Fish

1 Flame Hawk

1 Blue Green Chromis



Reef Dip: Seachem Reef Dip and Revive

 

[Jvesche20]

calcium seems super high to me. I keep mine at 400ppm

 

[Auquanut]

Seems like your calcium and magnesium are way high. Are you dosing?

 

[Jay Z]

What do you have for flow and lighting? Also a pic of the tank head on might help someone with the proper answer.

 

[Billldg]

The tank seems very young to have corals flourish in it. Having takin the tank down and rebuilding it and using the old rock, the tank is still partially new, trust me, I know. I rebuilt my tank and replaced all the sand and tank still went thru a mini cycle. Cal does seem very high, I keep mine around 450. I would try and bump up the phosphate a little, 0 is not good for many reasons. I would also test nitrates as they are also important. Agree with above, what lighting are you using and at what percentage.

This is how I receive coral frags, I temp acclimate then for a while, enough to bring the temp up to DT level. Then I empty them into a tray and add water to the tray from my tank over the course of several minutes. Then I dip them in a Bayer bath for 10 to 12 minutes, then over the course of the next 20 minutes I move them to 3 more trays with clean water in it, mainly to rinse off the bayer. Then I move them to my DT and lower the light and then increase it over the next several days.

 

[oneilwiz]

The tank seems very young to have corals flourish in it. Having takin the tank down and rebuilding it and using the old rock, the tank is still partially new, trust me, I know. I rebuilt my tank and replaced all the sand and tank still went thru a mini cycle. Cal does seem very high, I keep mine around 450. I would try and bump up the phosphate a little, 0 is not good for many reasons. I would also test nitrates as they are also important. Agree with above, what lighting are you using and at what percentage.

This is how I receive coral frags, I temp acclimate then for a while, enough to bring the temp up to DT level. Then I empty them into a tray and add water to the tray from my tank over the course of several minutes. Then I dip them in a Bayer bath for 10 to 12 minutes, then over the course of the next 20 minutes I move them to 3 more trays with clean water in it, mainly to rinse off the bayer. Then I move them to my DT and lower the light and then increase it over the next several days.

Thank you all,

I have two ecotech radions running at 40% for a 6-hour photoperiod ( currently running acclimation period at 30%), I also have one MP40 running in the tank.

My question is how do you successfully lower the calcium and magnesium? I am currently not dosing since the tank has been setup. I use Rea sea Blue bucket

 

[vetteguy53081]

Immature tank with high parameters.
Cal -541ppm - should be around 400-425
Ammonia: 0 : acceptable
Alk 8.1 dkh : about 9 is good
Salinity: 1.024 : Bump up to 1.025-1.026
MG 1650ppm : OUCH - 1350 a good high range
Phosphate: 0 : you want a little, not totally zero
Nitrate: unknown haven't test for

What test kits are you using?
Age of Tank?
Intensity of lights "?
How are you acclimating?

ALSO, I WOULD RECOMMEND A SECOND OPINION ON YOUR PARAMETERS. TAKE A WATER SAMPLE TO A TRUSTED LFS AND HAVE THEM TEST THESE PARAMETERS FOR YOU AND SEE WHAT READINGS THEY COME UP WITH TO ASSURE ACCURACY OF YOUR WATER TESTS.

 

[Billldg]

Ok, now were talking, lets see if we can help you.

I also run Radions, I have mine on a 12 hour cycle, but I also have a Hybrid, SO, browning out can be attributed to not enough light. I run a modified AB+ setting. Now I wouldn't just crank up your lights as that can also have a bad effect on your corals, but I would increase the duration to at least 8 to 10 hours with a 2 to 3 ramping up and down. Other reefers will have different ideas on duration, and none will be wrong, but we will all agree on not doing to much at one time.

I agree with @vetteguy53081 , your tank parameters need to be tweaked a little, what test kits are your using, at 35.5 ppt, blue bucket parameters should be around 8.2 dkh alk, 430 cal, 1300 mag. If in fact your parameters are that high then water changes are your best friend, but you don't want to lower them to quickly, as again, it can shock your corals.

 

[oneilwiz]

I have sent off water of my tank to ICP for testing, I am using Hanna ALk, Phosphate and Calcium (1-month-old), Red sea for MG. ( Use hanna checker for Salinity.

Question for you all
1. How do I lower the Calcium to 425ppm?
2. How do I lower the MG to 1350?

PS I already have my RO top off water as mixed saltwater to the salinity of 1.025 for a week now to bring up my salinity slowly.

 

[Jay Z]

That’s what I was trying to get at. Browning that quick is usually a lighting and or flow issue.

 

[melanotaenia]

I am not really that surprised by your parameters as Red Sea salt typically has higher levels from what people are posting on here although I would think your ALK would be higher too, in line with CA/MG that are also high.

I would recommend getting some Tropic Marin Pro Salt, do water changes with that. Look to bumping up the photo period. Not necessarily brighter, but perhaps a little longer.

 

[Jay Z]

And not to get on vetteguys toes (mad respect). I ran my tank at 600+ calcium and 1800 mag for a month and a half while my triton other settled in. I did get the 24 hours browning too. Also had low level lights on that tank.

So both maybe on to your cause.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I have sent off water of my tank to ICP for testing, I am using Hanna ALk, Phosphate and Calcium (1-month-old), Red sea for MG. ( Use hanna checker for Salinity.

Question for you all
1. How do I lower the Calcium to 425ppm?
2. How do I lower the MG to 1350?

PS I already have my RO top off water as mixed saltwater to the salinity of 1.025 for a week now to bring up my salinity slowly.

Top off water mixed with salt in it may be an issue also. When water evaporates, the salinity likely climbs and you want to add RO water only. Using premixed saltwater can or may increase salinity even more.

 

[Billldg]

I have sent off water of my tank to ICP for testing, I am using Hanna ALk, Phosphate and Calcium (1-month-old), Red sea for MG. ( Use hanna checker for Salinity.

Question for you all
1. How do I lower the Calcium to 425ppm?
2. How do I lower the MG to 1350?

PS I already have my RO top off water as mixed saltwater to the salinity of 1.025 for a week now to bring up my salinity slowly.

I would test the water that you are using to do water changes with and then do water changes over a couple of weeks, maybe a 20 percent water change weekly if the parameters of the new salt water are in check.

Good, question, Are you using RO/DI water in your top off, or salt water?

 

[oneilwiz]

I am using new SW for top-off because my Salinity was at 1.021 Prior to me adding corals to the tank. I want to bring my salinity to 1.025. so I am slowly increasing it.

So to summarize, to lower my calcium and MG to a safer measurement, I should use a different Saltmix ( Reef Crystal?) that has lower parameters. Do a weekly water change to lower the Cal and MG. For now, I will not add any more corals.

 

[Billldg]

I am using new SW for top-off because my Salinity was at 1.021 Prior to me adding corals to the tank. I want to bring my salinity to 1.025. so I am slowly increasing it.

So to summarize, to lower my calcium and MG to a safer measurement, I should use a different Saltmix ( Reef Crystal?) that has lower parameters. Do a weekly water change to lower the Cal and MG. For now, I will not add any more corals.

Water changes are the best way to lower parameters, but like I said, do it slowly as the corals do get used to the parameters and changing them can shock them. Reef crystals is a solid choice.

 

[madweazl]

Low light levels arent going to kill corals. Your calcium and magnesium levels arent going to kill corals. What the higher than typical parameters might indicate is that your salinity is high; get that double checked by somebody else to make sure you're good there first.

 

[oneilwiz]

Water changes are the best way to lower parameters, but like I said, do it slowly as the corals do get used to the parameters and changing them can shock them. Reef crystals is a solid choice.

Thank you for I will grab some Ree Crystal tonight from Petco and do a 10Gal WC tomorrow evening, I have no faith those corals will live for tonight

 

[Billldg]

Thank you for I will grab some Ree Crystal tonight from Petco and do a 10Gal WC tomorrow evening, I have no faith those corals will live for tonight

You have to have faith, we have faith in you that you will get thru this and be better on the other end.

 

[oneilwiz]

You have to have faith, we have faith in you that you will get thru this and be better on the other end.

thank you man much appreciated