Evolution of the Blue World 180

BlueWorldJeff

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Its been two years and some change since the Blue World 180 was first established. The previous tank was an All-Glass 120g 4'x2'x2' with custom coast to coast overflow. When we bought a house, I wanted to go bigger and initially purchased a 4'x4'x2; 240g cube with center overflow. I thought this was the one to go big with, but an initial water test failed and it was sent back out, leaving me with the 120 unless I could find something else. With one week before our move, I saw a Visio 6'x2'x2' for sale with canopy and stand for $200. The stand had the recessed doors like I wanted and everything looked good online. When I went to see it in person, I had to have it. The seals looked good and the glass was clean, the stand just had some water damage on the floor, but the supports were sturdy. I gave the lady $200 on the spot and preceded to load the tank and canopy in the back of my 2012 Escalade with the seats out. The tank hung out of the back of the truck and I had 40 miles to go, drop it off, come back for the stand, load that, drop it off and then test it. It took me awhile, but I got the entire setup to my house and unloaded. Water test was a success, so I used two furniture dollies to roll the tank, stand and canopy into the dedicated tank room and then had to figure out how to get the tank on the stand with just me. The stand has a lip, so the tank had to go on from the back. I lifted the front end and slid it on the stand almost at 90 degrees to the stand, balancing it, I came aroudn to the back and lifted it so the corner of the front would slide to the corner of the stand and then I could place the back on the stand on the other side. When I started to lift, the front end started to slide down the stand and almost slid off the stand compeltely. This would have been the end of the Blue World 180, but as luck had it , it caught right before it got to the end and I was able to slide it on the stand and get it in place. Two things learned from this - 1.) Think things through before you do them. 2.) Get help lifting big stuff!

The Blue World 180 was ready to get wet.
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The old 120 at my other place had 3 live rock pillars with coral, that I wanted to move as one to the new house and new tank
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I planned for months on how to make the 100 mile drive keeping the live rock intact as well as not starting a new cycle with the new tank. My plan was make 80 gallons of new water at the new house and have it ready when the live rock, fish and equipment show up. I got 2 40 gallon brute trash cans, made the water with my RODI unit and then left the water mixing for a couple days while I broke down the old tank

I had two 32 gallon trash cans that I could place the entire pillar in. The shortest one will go in a 24 gallon rubbermaid tote. When moving day came, I drained the water, bagged all the fish, put them in some coolers, then lifted the live rock pillars out and put them in the trash cans, filling them with tank water
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Getting the cans out to the car, then into the car was not easy, but none of this was
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The drive to the new house was long, hot and slow, but everything arrived intact and alive.
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Everything that was alive had a heater and an airstone, fish and coral bags were temp regulated in the coolers. Everything had to stay in their containers until the tank got water, sand and a sump. I also brought some old tank water just by itself to help prevent a cycle. I had to take out two of the back supports to get the sump in, but it fit perfectly, plus room more room on either side for ATO and dosing than with the 120!
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Next Update: Tank gets live rock, live stock and equipment
 
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BlueWorldJeff

BlueWorldJeff

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Once the tank was in place and water added, the live rock pillars were added and I had to wait for the water to clear. In the meantime, plumbing was next on my list. The tank has a center overflow with a 1.5" drain hole and two 3/4" return holes. I hate having just one drain line, but didn't have time to figure out an alternate way to plumb a multiple durso setup with returns over the side. I stuck with one drain and left the two returns that come out of the side of the overflow. I also hate the holes being in the overflow, as when the pump shuts off, the returns suck water down the hole level and that's a lot to go in the sump. (I'll get to my ideal setup later in the post)
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I've had to have the locline return nozzles aimed up towards the water line so i can break the siphon without losing too much water into the sump. It leads to alot of salt creep, but does help with oxygen exchange. For the drain line, I used a street elbow and cut the end to fit very close to the "up pipe", it all fits well in the overflow.
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On the sump end, I had some issues making the "Y" split for the return. With the drain in the area, I had to get it all to fit just right to be above the sump. The stand is not that tall.
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I've since moved away from using flex PVC as much as I used to, but it does have its benefits in certain situations

Once the water started flowing through my Waveline DC6000 return pump, and through the tank and no leaks were found (took some iterations before totally leak proof), it was time to add the live rock, skimmer and electronics to the tank and sump
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The fish and loose coral made their entrance right after plumbing finished.

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I wanted to try something different with the electronic components, as I've seen some nicely organized wires and devices, whereas my last tank was a complete mess. I had some old media cabinets laying around and figured I could take the shelf, flip it vertically, drill some holes and then I could mount the units to the wall and run the wires behind. Attaching the two cabinets together allowed for plugs on the bottom and controllers on the top

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The netpune apex breakout box filled the empty spot in the top right after picture was taken

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For the lights, I use RapidLED Onyx Dimmable units x3. They sat 12" off the water in my old tank. My new canopy is much shorter, so I had to figure out a way to hang them, since the fan is on the top of the unit and still have enough room for spread. I decided to just drill holes in the top of the canopy and run the hanging wires through. I can put something on top of the canopy under the wire to either raise or lower the light. Quick fix, but until I get Radions, it has to do.

Added the Tunze 6105s, all the float switches, probes, dosing pumps,heaters, Apex controller programmed and finally we had something the family could enjoy.
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And not a minute too soon as my second son was born 3 weeks after we moved in.

Next up, the fun part - Fish, Corals, Inverts, Equipment, Water Parameters, Maintenance, Lessons Learned and Future (Dream) Enhancements!
 
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BlueWorldJeff

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I will try to list my entire inventory of equipment and livestock here. I know there will be something I forget. I'll do coral Ids with pictures later

Equipment
Apex Classic- Two EB8s, Breakout Box, VDM
Return Pump - Waveline DC6000, set at about 60%
Skimmer - AquaMaxx AM250 In-Sump
Circulation Pumps - Tunze 6105 x2 -Programmed to Apex
Lighting - Rapid LED Onyx Dimmable (2 x 60 degree optics, 1 x 100 degree optics) - programmed to Apex
Dosing - Drews Dosers x 2 (CaCl, Soda Ash), programmed to Apex
Heaters - Jager TruTemp 300W x2 (primary and redundant)
ATO - float switches x 2 to Apex Breakout Box. ATO reservoir is 10 gal RV water storage container. Aqualifter pump
Chemical Filtration - GFO via TLF150

Fish
Dejardini Sailfin Tang
Yellow Eye Kole Tang
Chocolate Tang
Checkerboard Wrasse
Leopard Wrasse
Flame Angel
Blue Chromis x 2
Black and White Ocellaris Clownfish x 2
Diamond Watchman Goby
Blue Spot Goby

Inverts
Trochus Snails
Serpent Star x 2

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BlueWorldJeff

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One of the changes that I made initially to the aquascape is add another rock pillar to the middle. This gives it depth, where the fish can swim through the two and it give me more places to glue coral!
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Middle Pillar Formation
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Corals clockwise)-
Purple Stylo
Jason Fox Green Stag
Vivid Pink Prostrata
Ponape Birdnest w/ Bubble algae
Acan Echinata
Blue Monti Digitata
Green/Red Favia
Neon Green Maze Brain
True Monitpora Undata
Orange Pavona
 
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BlueWorldJeff

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Right Rock Pillar Formation
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Corals (From Top to bottom)
Huge Blue Stag
Tri Color Valida in the middle of the stag (left over from when colony died, the encrusted part regrew in middle of blue stag)
Green Stag (Slimer?)
Red Planet (Far left and above turbinaria)
Vivid Pink Prostrata
WWC Slimeball Anacropora
Yellow Scroll Turbinaria
Orange Leptoseris
Mint Pavona
Green Hammer Coral

Skeleton of Green Montipora. Got too big for the pillar so started cutting it back, eventually it started to fade, which is ok with me, lots more room for frags now
 

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